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Anyone change motor mounts on 351C?
#1
Replace cracked engine mounts, thats my next project.

Once the mounts get unbolted, where is the best jacking point to raise the engine?
Any recommendations for replacment mounts that fit properly?

Any pointers would be appreciated.
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#2
(10-26-2010, 07:23 PM)f117rt Wrote: Replace cracked engine mounts, thats my next project.

Once the mounts get unbolted, where is the best jacking point to raise the engine?
Any recommendations for replacment mounts that fit properly?

Any pointers would be appreciated.

I would use a hoist an a carb lift plate. Prothane/ Energy Suspension make polyurethane mounts, prothane lists them 71-73 though. Something is higher/lower between the 71-2 and 73 mounts, can anyone expand on this?
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#3
Is a hoist the only way?
I thought that you just jack the engine a couple of inches without removing anything else then just swap out the mounts?

Anyone else do it this way without any problems?
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#4
I agree that the hoist is the "best" way to lift the motor. You might be able to get away with using a hydraulic jack but I would only do that if I had no other alternative and you would have to be very careful with the oil pan.

As far as a place to get the mounts, you might want to try Autozone. I know when I swapped the 302 out of my '73 Grandé with the 472, I was able to get the 429 motor mounts from Autozone. They were a lot cheaper than those advertised in the Mustang catalogs.[/i]

If Autozone does not have them, I know Mustang Unlimited has them listed in their catalog. I would think that OMS may also have them.

Hope this helps.

BT

Do the RIGHT thing.
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#5
As far as the difference between 71-72 and 73, they actually did change the mount design. In 73 they went to a safer design, which prevents the engine from tearing loose in the event that the rubber part fails. Instead of two metal parts connected by the rubber under tension, the rubber was surrounded by the metal and placed under compression. If the rubber fails, the motor is still retained by the metal parts of the mount. It's easier to understand if you look at the two styles side by side.
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#6
I changed mine using a jack under the oil pan but I didn't like doing it. I bought mine from autozone they even had them in stock.

[Image: 25rnz1y.jpg]

~Buddy
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#7
+1 hoist,,, the problem is a jack can damage the oil pan or the oil pick up, and if that happens you will have to take the engine out to repair it.

you could also jack up the transmission a little but again i don't recommend it because you can damage the trans pan or accidentally crack the bell housing.

a hoist isn't that expensive it just takes up space you may be able to rent one for a few hours and change the mounts.
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#8
The 73 mounts are capured style and are unique to that year. The 73 frame perches are shorter and the mounts are taller to compensate. The motor sits a tiny bit higher on the 73 as well.
71-72 are rubber mounts that look like most older mustang mounts. The frame perches are taller on these than 73 and the mounts are shorter.
Most auto parts stock them, most are made overseas. I think NAPA had some USA made ones. There is also these Lakewood muscle mounts that look promising.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-24094/

Hoist is safest way to avoid bending the oil pan just enough to close the gap on the pick up and have no oil running thru your engine.
A strong tree and a comealong type winch will yank the engine up the couple inches but I would use some type of wood blocks wedged on the frame or floor to suport the weight, before sticking my hands under there
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#9
Resurrecting an old thread. I understand how you wouldn't want to use a jack to lift up on the oil pan as it has small displacement. But what if you used a transmission jack? that way it has more weight displacement.

If that still sounds like a bad idea then I'll just order a lift plate

1971 Mustang Grandé, 351 Cleveland 2v, C6, 9"
-Fitech EFI
-Comp Cams 284hr
-Aussie Heads
-Weiand Xcelerator intake
-Long Tube Headers
-Boss Hogg "Street Bandit"


My Build
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#10
You can put a wide block of wood between the floor jack and the oil pan. An inch or more thick and a big enough square that it is larger than the bottom of the pan. That way you are picking the pan up by the sides and not just pushing up in the middle.

If you have an aftermarket pan they are thinner and can bend more easily than a stock oil pan so be more careful.

You do not need to move the engine up much - you are basically just taking the weight of off the mounts and making room.

Sorry I have been gone for awhile - spent some time in the hospital over the last few weeks.

- Paul of MO
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