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Any secret tips for Rear Window Molding installation
#1
Hi,

I'm looking for tips on how to install the moldings of my rear window ('71 Mach 1). The last time I attempted this ended with some bent and dented moldings. I've ordered a new set of hopefully better quality this time (NPD), and I want to avoid damaging them again.
My problem seems to be that the force necessary to press in the moldings is more than they can stand.

Any tips greatly appreciated!

- Manfred
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#2
I agree. I have gone through 2 sets and I would love to know the secret

[Image: faood3.png]
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#3
There is one producer, Dynacorn. They are soft aluminum, not properly formed at the ends and they will ALL dent/bend when installed using original clips. I found this out the hard way. Find an original set without major dents, strip the anodizing, use progressively finer sand paper to remove imperfections, buff. Short of not using the clips and trying to "glue" them in place they will all bend.

Chuck
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#4
Guys,

thanks for the answers so far, but you are sure shattering my hopes. However, I'm still waiting for the "killer trick" in installing the moldings.

Let me add another question: Has anyone sucessfully installed (aftermarket) rear window moldings.If yes, how did you do it?

Regards from Bavaria, Manfred
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#5
i've bent mine also, but it was a long time ago, i guess the killer trick is you need the trim puller tool that has pointy ends that grab the green clip for the molding. when you put the molding back you use the tool to hold the clip back a little and you carefully push it into place that relieves the stress on the aluminum molding because otherwise you have to slap it into place which is why it bents. So slip the tool in grab each clip one at a time and hold it back a little and push down on the molding to seat it then let go of the clip and push on the lip of the molding just a little were the top of the green clip catches it.

my original molding was pretty bent up before i did anything, and i had to remove it to work on my rear window and when i pushed it back into place i really wasn't trying very hard not to damage it since i figured i would replace it in the future anyway
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#6
The repro moldings are crap. They are soft like butter. I learn this on the hard way, they are expensive especially with the shipping to germany. Never see a more worse repro part.
I buy a used set from Motocity Mustang , the original are much better and easyer to install. I use the clip tool and grease on the clips.

[Image: t5Banner.jpg]
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#7
The tips using the removal tool and some grease on the clips sound good. I will give it a try this weekend with the reproduction moldings I've got. If it doesn't work, I will hunt for some used ones. I will let you know how it turns out.

Regards, Manfred
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#8
OK guys, I give up!!!

Today I tried to install the second set of repro rear window moldings and failed completely :-((( Even with grease on the clips and using the removal tool, the force to push the moldings into the clips is greater than what it takes to bend them.

So now I'm looking for a set of user or NOS moldings. Any ideas where to find them???

Thank you, Manfred (depressed)
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#9
Manfred, Even if you find a set of NOS moldings the cost will be VERY high. If you can find a set with no large bends or large dents or creases, I can tell you how to refinish them inexpensively. It take some time, about 4 hours a piece but the results are excellent. I did almost every piece of trim on my car this way. The vendors on this site is a good place to start or post a "want to buy" here. I have spare drip moldings but no window moldings. I'll ask people I know locally to se if I can find a set.

Chuck
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#10
Try Mike at Motorcity Mustangs. He's found me every OEM part I've needed and a great person to deal with.

72 Q Code Mach 1, 351C, Toploader.
69 Torino GT Convertible, 351W, FMX
03 Anniversary Harley Davidson
31 Deluxe Tudor
91 F350 Lariet Crewcab 4x4, 460, automatic
2012 Escape 4x4
92 Feature Edition Mustang
82 F100 Shortbed
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