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Another cowl question
#1
I have searched this site and I think I understand, but let me ask to be clear.
The reproduction cowl for the 71-73 is for a non A/C car?
If I have an A/C car I have to buy a $440 reproduction cowl and then modify it for the A/C car?

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_p...temid=3228

The modification is plugging the extra hole on the drivers side?
The reproduction cowl has to split apart to weld a patch over this hole?

Seems like a lot of money and time, but one has to do what one has to do to fix a rusty cowl.

One final question, does the reproduction cowl come with the top hat (stove pipe) included on the passenger side?

Actually, anyone got pictures of this reproduction, other than the standard photos I can find at Ohio Mustang Supply? Like maybe pictures of the inside and underside of the reproduction cowl.
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#2
I don't know. I haven't done it and my experience in tangential at best. http://i49.tinypic.com/14e7u3a.jpg

I installed air in my non air car. The underside of the cowl on the driver's side was easy to seal off. I made an aluminum plate to match the top of the vent I had removed, matched the mounting holes, applied a thick bead of Gutter sealer I had laying around and ran the screws back into the cowl. I've never had a drop of water pass through this modification.

I would think that if you wished to do this with steel and welding, that it would be roughly the same and should not require splitting the halves, if they come assembled. Cut a filler plate and weld it in or overlap it slightly and weld it on. If you want the repair to be invisible, I suppose you would have to get to both sides to grind it smooth.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#3
it might be better to section parts off the reproduction and then stitch your original back together, verse take the reproduction and try to make it work.

the backside of the A/C cowl also has some screw tabs for the a/c heat box. there are some other differences with cutbacks for clearance behind the dash.

way back when i had mine fixed reproduction was not available. i would of had to pay 1000-1500$ for a donor car and cut the sheet metal out. i was almost at that point, when the fabricator i hired to do the work said he could just make the sections i needed instead. so he hand fabricated the parts for about 500$.

since we pieced my cowl together in sections, i did not need to remove my windshield or dash to make the repairs, thus save more money in the process. if you buy the reproduction its assumed you will have a gutted car to install the new sheet metal on. it is alot of work to get a whole section installed verse a small sectional area.

you can see what i did...
http://s1031.photobucket.com/user/72hcod...t=2&page=1

but having a reproduction piece as a donor is a good idea, even if you do not use it as a whole replacement.

think about all the stuff that needs to come out of the car to replace that entire panel.
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#4
It comes in two sections [ top and bottom]
There are no "set backs " to speak of
There are two brackets you need to save off the a/c cowl
One for hanging the blower motor housing and one for the end of the a/c box
The LH top hat can be covered with a plate and sealed.
Or it can be removed and a patch welded in.
The top hat on the RH side is there.

Search the site there are install pics from 2 or 3 guys on here.

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
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#5
Jeff73Mach1;185499 Wrote:I don't know. I haven't done it and my experience in tangential at best. http://i49.tinypic.com/14e7u3a.jpg

I installed air in my non air car. The underside of the cowl on the driver's side was easy to seal off. I made an aluminum plate to match the top of the vent I had removed, matched the mounting holes, applied a thick bead of Gutter sealer I had laying around and ran the screws back into the cowl. I've never had a drop of water pass through this modification.

I would think that if you wished to do this with steel and welding, that it would be roughly the same and should not require splitting the halves, if they come assembled. Cut a filler plate and weld it in or overlap it slightly and weld it on. If you want the repair to be invisible, I suppose you would have to get to both sides to grind it smooth.

I had just finished repairing my cowl damage (replaced both rusted out 'stove pipe' sections with pieces rom another car) only to discover that my Classic Auto Air kit said to block off the stove pipes and even provided a single patch with instructions to install in the very same manner as Jeff outlined above.

Having a non-A/C car myself, that left one of the stove pipes open (which made no sense to me at all), so I made another patch, and blocked off both stove pipes at the same time. Since the Classic Auto Air kit comes with all new ducting, I simply removed all of the original stuff and put it aside - so... no more cool cable-controlled fresh air vents. Boooooo

The other disappointing part of the whole repop cowl thing is the timing of their release. Had they released this repop cowl just two years ago, I would've simply ripped out all the bad stuff and replaced it with the new repop sheet metal. Oh well - that's pretty much the case with every new repop piece they release now. Angry

But, it's all good.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#6
1973grandeklar,

Yes the repro is for non A/C cars. The only difference I found was you need to remove two a/c box brackets off your old cowl to reweld on the new one and remove the left drivers side cowl vent/hat by drilling out the spot welds and welding in a new round piece of sheetmetal. I posted a picture of the two A/C brackets on my old cowl in another cowl thread titled "Christmas present from Dynacorn-cowl replacement" by Spechti where you had asked about this before.
I have totally stripped my 73 Grandé to the bare body shell which you pretty much have to do to get the old cowl out and new one in. Definitely the dashboard, windshield and heater/A/C Box will need to be removed to do this job. The new cowl comes in two pieces as the original was made so you are able to remove the left side cowl hat/cone easily and put the new metal over the hole. The cowl was a perfect match other than the A/C car verse non A/C car differences and fit perfectly unlike a lot of repro parts I have gotten. Well worth the money spent.
Michael
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#7
OMS;185508 Wrote:It comes in two sections [ top and bottom]
There are no "set backs " to speak of
There are two brackets you need to save off the a/c cowl
One for hanging the blower motor housing and one for the end of the a/c box
The LH top hat can be covered with a plate and sealed.
Or it can be removed and a patch welded in.
The top hat on the RH side is there.

Search the site there are install pics from 2 or 3 guys on here.

Thanks for the reply. I am just a little skeptical spending $440 bucks on a reproduction part only to cut it up. But as others have said, better than trying to fabricate all the peices. As for the tabs, I can find one, I think the other is rusted gone. I will look for the pictures you mentioned.
Any idea if they are going to offer an A/C version of this cowl so the extra work could be avoided?
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#8
1973grandeklar;185512 Wrote:Thanks for the reply. I am just a little skeptical spending $440 bucks on a reproduction part only to cut it up.

Remember, that's the usual course of action for most repro parts to begin with Wink

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
  Reply
#9
1973grandeklar;185512 Wrote:
OMS;185508 Wrote:It comes in two sections [ top and bottom]
There are no "set backs " to speak of
There are two brackets you need to save off the a/c cowl
One for hanging the blower motor housing and one for the end of the a/c box
The LH top hat can be covered with a plate and sealed.
Or it can be removed and a patch welded in.
The top hat on the RH side is there.

Search the site there are install pics from 2 or 3 guys on here.

Thanks for the reply. I am just a little skeptical spending $440 bucks on a reproduction part only to cut it up. But as others have said, better than trying to fabricate all the peices. As for the tabs, I can find one, I think the other is rusted gone. I will look for the pictures you mentioned.
Any idea if they are going to offer an A/C version of this cowl so the extra work could be avoided?

Hey before this came out you had to try and find a good cowl - if you could find one they were 600.00 - 900.00 and just cut out so there was a bunch of prep work.

No word on another cowl.
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#10
Thanks OMS, I will be ordering the cowl in a month or two as my 1973 is mostly gone. I guess the $440 and a small amount of work is worth it knowing I do not have to scrounge around for a good used or fabricate a lot for my rusty one. Also good to know that it is a two piece design that I can do good prep and painting before putting the top on!

Seems Ford was really skimpy on the rust protection in this area. Especially knowing that water went into this cavity. Even worse, the collection of leaves and dirt that holds the water. I cleaned mine up and was flabbergasted to see the amount of rust concentrated in this area. The rest of the car looks fairly solid and very little rust, but then I get to this location and I am thinking the previous owner poured salt into the cowl. The passenger floor pan being rusty should of given a clue, but then I knew the heater core is toast as well, so either way.

Once this area is repaired and properly painted, what advice do others have to keep this area clean and looking nice? And not driving it in the rain is not an option. I like to drive my cars and an occasional downpour is not something I want to fear.
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