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Alternator regulator
#1
I am taking the car to school on Monday for a front end alignment. Also going to do a battery load test for electronics class. I am trying to figure out if wire 35 or 36 is the field lead for the alternator to the regulator. I am looking at the wiring diagram and am not clear on it.
Jim

drive it like you stole it
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#2
Wire 35. If color code is the same as 72 it should be an orange wire with a blue stripe. Chuck
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#3
c9zx;43534 Wrote:Wire 35. If color code is the same as 72 it should be an orange wire with a blue stripe. Chuck

Thanks for the Info Chuck.
Jim

drive it like you stole it
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#4
Let us know how things go. Chuck
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#5
Hi Guys,
I use this thread as this belong to my question to Alternator regulator. I am working on completion of electrical system and now come to the test of charging system.
I want to ask how to test if voltage regulator is working properly and my alternator is charging correctly.
I buy a new Motorcraft voltage regulator. My car is equipped with ammeter in dash. Altenator is an old stuff. Just cleaned it and put new bearings.

I believe all electrical system was connected according to the factory schematic.

Results of the testing I performed:
Battery output at ignition off is 11,9 V
Once I start the car (1500 rpm - choke on) the voltage between on battery terminals increases to 13,8V and stays constant regardless I turn the light or any accessory on or increase engine rpm.

The field port on regulator connected to alternator shows 8 volts with light off and 12 V with lights on.

Ammeter gauge hardly moves down while accessory is switch on. When engine running no movement in charging array is detected. When I hooked between the port terminal and battery + port the movement is much larger.
I tested red and yellow wires going to the dash back to port in engine compartment and seems to be connected with minimal resistance.

So, sorry maybe dumb question but, I am not an expert in car charging electrical systems.
According to the description I put above do you believe the charging works correctly ?
How to better test Ammeter gauge ?

Here is the connection of my regulator.

A - Goes to port terminal
S - connected to Ignition
F - Connected to Alternator Field
[Image: regulator.jpg]








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#6
mach172;50077 Wrote:Hi Guys,
I use this thread as this belong to my question to Alternator regulator. I am working on completion of electrical system and now come to the test of charging system.
I want to ask how to test if voltage regulator is working properly and my alternator is charging correctly.
I buy a new Motorcraft voltage regulator. My car is equipped with ammeter in dash. Altenator is an old stuff. Just cleaned it and put new bearings.

I believe all electrical system was connected according to the factory schematic.

Results of the testing I performed:
Battery output at ignition off is 11,9 V
Once I start the car (1500 rpm - choke on) the voltage between on battery terminals increases to 13,8V and stays constant regardless I turn the light or any accessory on or increase engine rpm.

The field port on regulator connected to alternator shows 8 volts with light off and 12 V with lights on.

Ammeter gauge hardly moves down while accessory is switch on. When engine running no movement in charging array is detected. When I hooked between the port terminal and battery + port the movement is much larger.
I tested red and yellow wires going to the dash back to port in engine compartment and seems to be connected with minimal resistance.

So, sorry maybe dumb question but, I am not an expert in car charging electrical systems.
According to the description I put above do you believe the charging works correctly ?
How to better test Ammeter gauge ?

Here is the connection of my regulator.

A - Goes to port terminal
S - connected to Ignition
F - Connected to Alternator Field
[Image: regulator.jpg]



At 13.8 VDC the charging system is working. At 11.9 at the battery it sounds like the battery either needs to be charged or has a weak cell. Chuck


cabelreyes;50854 Wrote:How do you bypass an external voltage regulator when installing a new alternator?? Need suggestion to solve this query of mine...

swim fins info

Are you changing to an internal style alternator? What alternator are you wanting to use? Chuck
  Reply
#7
mach172;50077 Wrote:Hi Guys,
I use this thread as this belong to my question to Alternator regulator. I am working on completion of electrical system and now come to the test of charging system.
I want to ask how to test if voltage regulator is working properly and my alternator is charging correctly.
I buy a new Motorcraft voltage regulator. My car is equipped with ammeter in dash. Altenator is an old stuff. Just cleaned it and put new bearings.

I believe all electrical system was connected according to the factory schematic.

Results of the testing I performed:
Battery output at ignition off is 11,9 V
Once I start the car (1500 rpm - choke on) the voltage between on battery terminals increases to 13,8V and stays constant regardless I turn the light or any accessory on or increase engine rpm.

The field port on regulator connected to alternator shows 8 volts with light off and 12 V with lights on.

Ammeter gauge hardly moves down while accessory is switch on. When engine running no movement in charging array is detected. When I hooked between the port terminal and battery + port the movement is much larger.
I tested red and yellow wires going to the dash back to port in engine compartment and seems to be connected with minimal resistance.

So, sorry maybe dumb question but, I am not an expert in car charging electrical systems.
According to the description I put above do you believe the charging works correctly ?
How to better test Ammeter gauge ?

Here is the connection of my regulator.

A - Goes to port terminal
S - connected to Ignition
F - Connected to Alternator Field
[Image: regulator.jpg]
The full current is not passed through the ammeter. Instead a shunt is used to bypass most of the current so that only a small current actually passes through the ammeter. I would suspect that the shunt has been replaced/rewired, so that too much current flows through the shunt and not enough goes through the ammeter. Also, the ammeter works on a very small current and the movements must be very free. Any dirt, oil, etc. in the pivots will prevent the needle from moving.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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