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almost free mod yeilds nice gains
#1
Hello everyone, I thought I'd share my latest upgrade. Well in my quest to get every bit of power out of my 2V cleveland I decided it was time to tear into my duraspark dizzy and see what slots the mechanical advance had and where it was set at (16L and 21L) slots installed in it and was on the 16L setting. Time to break out the welder, welded it up to decrease the slot travel to .430" making it a 10L limiting it to 20* mechanical advance. Next up, installed Mr. Gasket 925D advance springs to get full advance all in quicker and put everything back together. I set the base timing to 18* and tightened up the hold down clamp. The 18* base timing setting plus the 20* mechanical advance gives me 38 degrees at full swing, just right. The test drive confirmed this by rewarding me with a very nice increase in power and throttle response completely eliminating a flat spot it had in low to mid rpm range. All in all one of my favorite mods. Just thought I would share.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#2
NICE!

Just how I would have set it up.... vacuum can? For street use another 12-16* vacuum advance would be perfect.

Is there any good duraspark swap info out there? My 71 m code has a Mallory dizy installed that I can't seem to find good info for an I'm not sure is working right so ive been looking at DS and HEI swaps.
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#3
Oh I forgot to add I also added an adjustable vacuum can set 2 turns out, she runs so sweet now. Nice and smooth with no hesitations whatsoever. No pinging either. The duraspark swap is a piece of cake, get a distributor and ignition box for a 85 F350 with a 460 , wire everything in and never worry about changing points again.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#4
I've used 351 M or 400 M duraspark ignitions.
You don't have any problems starting the car esp when hot with so much initial advance?
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#5
Nope, the car fires up instantly as soon as I turn the key, my duraspark box is equipped with the infamous white wire that retards the timing a bit when you are starting the engine not that I think it needs it because the engine starts so fast. I failed to mention I only run ethanol free 91 octane gasoline in our car. I'm sure the open chamber 2V heads coupled with lowish compression alow for the extra initial timing.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#6
Nice job, Mike! thumb

My Duraspark hasn't smoked a box or anything since I rewired it back to my original configuration. Of course, fire it up, idle, back it out of the garage, shut down... then 6 or 7 hours later: fire it up, idl, pull it back into the garage, shut down... isn't exactly "hard duty" or anything. Wink Big Grin

Silverback;191560 Wrote:NICE!

Just how I would have set it up.... vacuum can? For street use another 12-16* vacuum advance would be perfect.

Is there any good duraspark swap info out there? My 71 m code has a Mallory dizy installed that I can't seem to find good info for an I'm not sure is working right so ive been looking at DS and HEI swaps.

Hey Mark,

There are a couple of Duraspark conversion threads in the Performance forum. I bugged the guys for some info when I was researching mine, and posted my results. I think we've pretty much got it all covered... just gotta do some reading. Wink Big Grin

Hope that helps.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#7
Thanks guys, playing with the distributor and the duraspark conversion are very worthwhile modsSmile

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#8
Nice and 'old school'. "No computers involved". Smile

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

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