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Alignment Specs
#1
Will be getting to the front end alignment soon and I am curious what people are using for specs. I found the original specs but I assume they are for Bias-Ply tires and stock ride height.

I am running radials, 17" rims. 1" lowering springs in the front and 1" lowering blocks in the rear. 351C with AC removed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The car will be a cruiser with some rather spirited driving from time to time. The front suspension has been completely replaced. UCA, LCA, Spring Perches, Shock, Springs, Tie Rods, Steering gear rebuilt with Quick Ratio, etc.

Here are the numbers I was thinking based on some internet searches.....

1/4" toe in
1/2 to 3/4 neg camber
??? Caster I have seen everything from 0 to 5 degrees suggested.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#2
Trial and error due to all the modifications on the front geometry. IMHO

The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it. 
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#3
Caster as much as you can get with each side being equal and not having the strut rods and the front roll bar interfere with one another.

Camber Negative I suggest between 1/2 of a degree if you never drive aggressive in the turns, 3/4 of a degree if you do, and 1-1 1/2 if you are a hooligan like me.


Toe in . . .anywhere between 1/8 to 1/4 and you should be fine.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#4
Mine's currently "eyeballed" with about 1/4" toe-in - using stock equipment and it's tracking just fine with no drag (my Jeep's the same way with 3/8" toe-in).  I'll be getting it properly aligned soon (probably after I swap on the coil-overs), but as little as I actually drive it, it works for now.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#5
+1

You can always opentrackers website too.

Your caster options are limited by your UCA choice. What arms are you running?

(05-30-2017, 10:20 AM)Jeff73Mach1 Wrote: Caster as much as you can get with each side being equal and not having the strut rods and the front roll bar interfere with one another.

Camber Negative I suggest between 1/2 of a degree if you never drive aggressive in the turns, 3/4 of a degree if you do, and 1-1 1/2 if you are a hooligan like me.


Toe in . . .anywhere between 1/8 to 1/4 and you should be fine.
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#6
All Stock style from Moog on the UCA and LCA. I did make and weld on custom stiffener plates on the LCA's.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#7
You can probably get 2-3* positive caster with the stock upper control arms. Tring to get more caster would involve shimming out the front side of your UCA behind the front bolt to rock the UCA twards the rear of the car. You might be able to do that too, but you would sacrafice negitive camber to do so.

I'd run it to the allignmment shop with no shims under the UCA, the LCA in it's most outward setting, and shorten up your strut rods so they are equal and not causing interference like what Jeff73Mach1 said.

One thing about when you try to max out camber and caster with the stock UCA is that you have to drag the LCA so far out and foward that your swaybar end links get pretty misalligned. On my car I thought about making a plate or diffrent sway bar mounts that would bolt to the stock mounting point but put the bar further forward to help out. What would be really cool would be a sway bar that was a little bit wider and shorter to straighten the links back up but work with a peformance allignment. Some of the very square poly end link kits can be a bear to assemble with everything out of whack. Moog makes a blue poly set that is more cone shaped and is a little easier to wrestle into place if you have your Lower control arms out and forward.
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#8
Thanks for all of the advise here. I appreciate it. I spoke with a local shop/builder here today and he said he would do the alignment. He mentioned some of the same things mentioned here as he is familiar with these set ups and has been doing them for nearly 50 years and said he would do mine himself just like he does for all of the classics that come in.

His suggested settings were as follows....

1/8" toe in
Negative camber at 3/4 to 1
Caster at 3 1/2 on the drivers side and 3 3/4 on the passenger.

All subject to clearance and interference issues.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
  Reply
#9
Sounds like he knows his business

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#10
I hope I am not interfering here but I just today completed the alignment on my '73 Mach 1 after installing the Street or Track full coil over system. I used a Tenhulzen alignment tool throughout (a dandy by the way). I installed the UCA's and LCA's as shipped and set by Shaun. I have run out of adjustment on my strut rods but landed as follows:

Camber: I landed on .55 driver side and .60 passenger side. This using SoT's camber kit. Right about where I wanted.

Caster: I landed on 2.5 driver side and 2.6 passenger side. I wanted 3.0 minimum. I can either shim or pull the CA's and re-adjust. Neither of which I am particularly fond of. Particularly the latter as it requires removal of the CA's. Am I really going to notice a difference given active street driving? 

Toe: I landed on 1/16 a side. 

Comments appreciated.
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