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Advice on replacing trunk weatherstrip
#1
It appears my trunk weatherstrip is original to the car and going to be a bear to remove. I suspect since it's weathered and cracked in places there will be rust underneath it once removed, which means grinding/sanding then repainting those areas (I have rattle cans with matching paint that local paint shop made up for me for just such reasons).

Does anyone have any lessons learned to pass on and what type of weatherstrip adhesive is recommended? The weatherstriping I purchased is D1ZZ-6343720 for 71-73 fastbacks, same length as one on it but isn't as wide (maybe old one smashed down?).

Thanks guys, any advise you can pass on appreciated.

Jim

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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#2
You need to insure that there is adequate pressure between the seal and the trunk lid. I would start by inspecting your current set up before removing it to identify any areas that maybe aren't sealing well.

You can close the trunk with a dollar bill laying across the weatherstripping and partially out of the trunk. You should feel mild resistance to pulling it. You should do this all around the trunk.

Make a note of how the weatherstripping faces and where the joint is so as to reproduce it with the new weatherstripping.

Warm the weatherstripping before trying to remove it. It will likely tear a number of times during the removal regardless of what you do.

Warm the residue and scrape/scrub with a wire brush to clean as much as possible. I prefer to treat rust with a phosphoric acid rust converter, and then to rinse with soapy water to neutralize then clean water to prep for paint. This can get really messy in your trunk so line it with plastic, use some old towels and use a spray bottle to minimize the amount of water you are using.

A rubber mallet used from underneath can help to restore any loose areas to proper fit.

I do not like the 3M weatherstrip adhesive. I would look for something heavier. I used 3M 5200, though it is incredibly slow curing.

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"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#3
I use 3M weather strip addhesive that I get from my local oreilly store...I do one side at a time, tape it in place, and go to the next side...DO NOT STRETCH THE SEAL...pre check for fit. I use wipeout 7800 wax and grease remover to clean the area before painting. be careful not to use too much addhesive as it will spew out and make a mess...it really is easy to do so good luck
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#4
I used the 3M sealer, used a bit of gasoline to wipe of the spew outs.
Be sure the paint has cured before you glue in a new weatherstrip ( maybe a little winterproject )

JB

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#5
All excellant advice that'll make my job smoother.

JB I hadn't even considered the curing time for the paint prior to glueing the weatherstrip on, Idea I was looking at this as a weekend project, but you're 100% correct, I can see that the paint should not only be dry but also cured prior to clueing the weatherstrip over the paint... if I really want to do it right. The paint I have says it has a 4 week curing time, since it's not raining now anyway, looks like I'll put this off until after cruising season is over. Thanks guys!

Jim

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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#6
When I remove my trunk weather strip there was little metal left! Hope your is in good condition!
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#7
Jim and Jutta;80412 Wrote:All excellant advice that'll make my job smoother.

JB I hadn't even considered the curing time for the paint prior to glueing the weatherstrip on, Idea I was looking at this as a weekend project, but you're 100% correct, I can see that the paint should not only be dry but also cured prior to clueing the weatherstrip over the paint... if I really want to do it right. The paint I have says it has a 4 week curing time, since it's not raining now anyway, looks like I'll put this off until after cruising season is over. Thanks guys!

Jim
Excellant idea! goodpost

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Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#8
Mustang Ricky;80437 Wrote:When I remove my trunk weather strip there was little metal left! Hope your is in good condition!

That's what I'm afraid of since it's appears to be the original weatherstripping (even has paint over spray on a portion of it from the quicke paint job the previous owner had done on the carSad) and it dried up and cracked in several places, had to be letting the water leak onto the metal over the years. So Ricky what did you end up doing in your case of very little metal left?

Jim

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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#9
just a heads up when you change the seal, expect the deck lid to not close properly for about 2 years.
the first time you go to shut it expect it to bounce back open. you may need to readjust the hidges to get pressure off the lid and allow it to close.

as the seal relaxes over time you can readjust the hinges and get things back in line.
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#10
+1 on being careful with AWFUL REPRO QUALITY seals... As Dany posted



Damián Cool

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