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Advice on PPG black paint for hood and lower side accents
#1
Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance
  Reply
#2
Here's one thread talking about it.
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-quest...atte-black

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
  Reply
#3
JamesS;154411 Wrote:Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance

Being an engineer I bet they used the matte finish to reduce glare off the hood. If you go with matte, don't wax it!
  Reply
#4
There is some excellent info on another similar site:

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/paint_info.htm

Ray

1971 Boss 351  
1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 
1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 
1973 Mach 1 (parts car)
  Reply
#5
Awesome page, thanks
  Reply
#6
JamesS;154411 Wrote:Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance

Hi James,

I am an Aussie Pro Spraypainter, and can pass on some basic good advice to you here.

Firstly, Aussie paints are in many ways differant to American paints. (Even the same brands of paints would you believe).So buy Aussie available paints for yourself.

Secondly, spraying and achieving a nib free matt or semi gloss finish 'off the gun' is very much harder to achieve than spraying a full gloss black finish where in that case, you can denib, and then cut and polish the paint to perfection.Satins and matts can't be worked on(sanded or buffed or waxed) to remove nibs etc, without ruining the finished look.

Thirdly, you can choose to use Acrylic Lacquer paint, or 2 Pak paints to do your job. 2Pak paint is far more durable,and better wearing than Lacquer paints. However, if you're spraying a hood in satin black for example, and you're using 2Pak satin black, and you get contamination in the finish, you have no choice but to let the paint dry, resand, and then refinish.Excessive film build can then be a problem here, and may take more than two takes to get it looking right. With Lacquer, you can denib and sand out imperfections on the fly as you apply the paint.(In my case i will use Lacquer on the hood, and 2Pak down the sides for durability and stone chip resistance.)

Fourthly, if you don't want a full gloss look, I THINK A SATIN LOOK IS BEST AND MOST AUTHENTIC FOR OUR MUSTANGS.A flat black look is rather boring in many respects, and is harder to keep looking good. In Lacquer and 2Pak paints, you can start with a full gloss black and add flatting base products to the paint in varying amounts to dial in what level of gloss you want to end up with, or buy the paint premixed at a preset gloss level.

Fifthly, you can buy clearcoats in lacquer and 2Pak, and as well add flatting base or buy the clear premixed to a set gloss level as well.In this case, you would start off with a lacquer black base and then apply the satin lacquer clear, and with 2pak, start with a black basecoat, and then apply the 2Pak satin clear over the top. That's another way of approaching the matter.
I myself prefer to use the premixed satin blacks themselves to get my preferred finish. BTW - Forget using waterbased basecoats - too much drama there i think)

Sixthly, brands - you won't go wrong with PPG Australia, but i use and reccomend Hi -Chem paints for quality and durability in Lacquer and 2Pak as well. Hi Chem does premixed satin blacks that really look first class.

http://www.hichem.com.au/

Hope that helps,

Greg.Smile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
  Reply
#7
Thanks Greg, fantastic info. Much appreciated
  Reply
#8
Austin Vert;154467 Wrote:
JamesS;154411 Wrote:Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance

Hi James,

I am an Aussie Pro Spraypainter, and can pass on some basic good advice to you here.

Firstly, Aussie paints are in many ways differant to American paints. (Even the same brands of paints would you believe).So buy Aussie available paints for yourself.

Secondly, spraying and achieving a nib free matt or semi gloss finish 'off the gun' is very much harder to achieve than spraying a full gloss black finish where in that case, you can denib, and then cut and polish the paint to perfection.Satins and matts can't be worked on(sanded or buffed or waxed) to remove nibs etc, without ruining the finished look.

Thirdly, you can choose to use Acrylic Lacquer paint, or 2 Pak paints to do your job. 2Pak paint is far more durable,and better wearing than Lacquer paints. However, if you're spraying a hood in satin black for example, and you're using 2Pak satin black, and you get contamination in the finish, you have no choice but to let the paint dry, resand, and then refinish.Excessive film build can then be a problem here, and may take more than two takes to get it looking right. With Lacquer, you can denib and sand out imperfections on the fly as you apply the paint.(In my case i will use Lacquer on the hood, and 2Pak down the sides for durability and stone chip resistance.)

Fourthly, if you don't want a full gloss look, I THINK A SATIN LOOK IS BEST AND MOST AUTHENTIC FOR OUR MUSTANGS.A flat black look is rather boring in many respects, and is harder to keep looking good. In Lacquer and 2Pak paints, you can start with a full gloss black and add flatting base products to the paint in varying amounts to dial in what level of gloss you want to end up with, or buy the paint premixed at a preset gloss level.

Fifthly, you can buy clearcoats in lacquer and 2Pak, and as well add flatting base or buy the clear premixed to a set gloss level as well.In this case, you would start off with a lacquer black base and then apply the satin lacquer clear, and with 2pak, start with a black basecoat, and then apply the 2Pak satin clear over the top. That's another way of approaching the matter.
I myself prefer to use the premixed satin blacks themselves to get my preferred finish. BTW - Forget using waterbased basecoats - too much drama there i think)

Sixthly, brands - you won't go wrong with PPG Australia, but i use and reccomend Hi -Chem paints for quality and durability in Lacquer and 2Pak as well. Hi Chem does premixed satin blacks that really look first class.

http://www.hichem.com.au/

Hope that helps,

Greg.Smile

Great advise.

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
  Reply
#9
Thank you very much Jim and Jutta.

Greg.Smile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
  Reply
#10
Austin Vert;154467 Wrote:
JamesS;154411 Wrote:Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance

Hi James,

I am an Aussie Pro Spraypainter, and can pass on some basic good advice to you here.

Firstly, Aussie paints are in many ways differant to American paints. (Even the same brands of paints would you believe).So buy Aussie available paints for yourself.

Secondly, spraying and achieving a nib free matt or semi gloss finish 'off the gun' is very much harder to achieve than spraying a full gloss black finish where in that case, you can denib, and then cut and polish the paint to perfection.Satins and matts can't be worked on(sanded or buffed or waxed) to remove nibs etc, without ruining the finished look.

Thirdly, you can choose to use Acrylic Lacquer paint, or 2 Pak paints to do your job. 2Pak paint is far more durable,and better wearing than Lacquer paints. However, if you're spraying a hood in satin black for example, and you're using 2Pak satin black, and you get contamination in the finish, you have no choice but to let the paint dry, resand, and then refinish.Excessive film build can then be a problem here, and may take more than two takes to get it looking right. With Lacquer, you can denib and sand out imperfections on the fly as you apply the paint.(In my case i will use Lacquer on the hood, and 2Pak down the sides for durability and stone chip resistance.)

Fourthly, if you don't want a full gloss look, I THINK A SATIN LOOK IS BEST AND MOST AUTHENTIC FOR OUR MUSTANGS.A flat black look is rather boring in many respects, and is harder to keep looking good. In Lacquer and 2Pak paints, you can start with a full gloss black and add flatting base products to the paint in varying amounts to dial in what level of gloss you want to end up with, or buy the paint premixed at a preset gloss level.

Fifthly, you can buy clearcoats in lacquer and 2Pak, and as well add flatting base or buy the clear premixed to a set gloss level as well.In this case, you would start off with a lacquer black base and then apply the satin lacquer clear, and with 2pak, start with a black basecoat, and then apply the 2Pak satin clear over the top. That's another way of approaching the matter.
I myself prefer to use the premixed satin blacks themselves to get my preferred finish. BTW - Forget using waterbased basecoats - too much drama there i think)

Sixthly, brands - you won't go wrong with PPG Australia, but i use and reccomend Hi -Chem paints for quality and durability in Lacquer and 2Pak as well. Hi Chem does premixed satin blacks that really look first class.

http://www.hichem.com.au/

Hope that helps,

Greg.Smile

Greg,
Im getting ready to buyall my paint products and had a few questions. I think i want to do a satin finish as you plan to do.
1. is it the me satin finish for the lower sides, hood and spoiler?
2. Im doing a 2 stage for the main body. Is the process your doing a single stage for the black?
3. if so do i do the color sand on the body clear then spray the black and if so do i sand the blackout areas first. im having a paint shop do it but wanted to present then with a process.

4. Does anyone no it if the side stripes come in gloss black should i avoid the pain and do all gloss black. i still think i want to do the spoiler in satin.

5. can anyone chime in on how they've done it?

Thanks
Jim
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