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Advice on brake conversion kits
(02-03-2019, 08:08 PM)Treyplus20 Wrote: I've been researching brake options and like the option of a total kit with pretty much everything included. But on the other hand I've read lots of reviews on Drake products and it can be hit or miss when it comes to quality. Anyone have any experience with this or a similar kit?

Also, what are y'all doing for the rear? I don't see the point in upgrading to disc in the rear, anyone have a recommendation for a good drum upgrade for the best performance?

I ended up purchasing the complete conversion kit from CJ Pony/Scott Drake. Set me back $900, haven't had a chance to install anything yet but out of the box everything looks like good quality and heavy duty. I don't plan on doing anything to the rear except a drum brake refresh with new drums, cylinders, shoes etc.
I'm just waiting for March to get here, I'll bring the car in the garage and get it up on the lift so I can start! I have a new gas tank, fuel and brake lines, new front brakes and some other work I need to get started on.
I bought the Leed Brakes front power disc kit and had it installed two weeks ago. Best thing I ever did to the car! Uses 67-68 Mustang rotors and 71-73 wheel bearings, and 65-66 Mustang calipers. With the front drums there was no intuition and no feel to the braking experience and braking towards corners was like guiding a barge. The new power brakes means you can head into corners stress free just like a normal modern car!

I did hand mine over to a brake shop to install though, could have done it myself but lacked a bit of confidence to do so.

The brake guy did remove the seat to get at the brake pedal for pedal removal and modification, but he didn't have to remove the steering column to do so. I told him to just cut an access hole in the existing firewall cover plate (it's only the thickness of a bit of tin) to create access for the power booster shaft, so there was no need for him to remove the whole pedal bracket assembly.

One note that a kind person on this forum advised me, is that the holes where the power booster attaches through the firewall need the threads drilling out so the booster studs will go through them. These holes in the firewall are 3/8" threaded, so a 3/8" drill is needed just to get rid of the thread.

Another note, the brake lights stopped working with the new brakes. Doing some research I found that there are two different brake switches used for power and drum brake cars. The switches look identical however the power brakes switch has a weaker spring in it than the drum brake switch so that it doesn't take as much force to activate it. Put the power brake light switch in and the brake lights work fine now.

[Image: phonestang2.jpg]
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