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Advice on brake conversion kits
#1
I'm going to replace the manual drum brakes and go with the power discs up front and keep the drums in the rear. I see a lot of conversion kits out there, some seem more complete than others. What I'm looking for is a complete kit that will include everything for the swap. Based on everyone experience that did this, can anyone offer any tips on what  to look for, best company for completeness, ease of installation and quality. Thanks
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#2
(01-04-2019, 02:58 PM)slowpoke17 Wrote: I'm going to replace the manual drum brakes and go with the power discs up front and keep the drums in the rear. I see a lot of conversion kits out there, some seem more complete than others. What I'm looking for is a complete kit that will include everything for the swap. Based on everyone experience that did this, can anyone offer any tips on what  to look for, best company for completeness, ease of installation and quality. Thanks

 For a low buck and great quality, my choice was SSBC 4 piston Kelsey-Hayes style. They fit right onto your drum spindles and very easy to do. When I did mine, I also changed all the brake lines. I chose SS, but good quality steel lines will last longer than the rest of the car, easier to work with as well. You will need new flex lines for sure. You can get these brakes from National Parts Depot amongst others. Oh, these will work with 14" wheels. I run aftermarket Magnum 500's. Also, forgot to mention, I did not have a power booster for the first 3 years, only adding that 2 years ago. On the back circuit, I used a separate adjustable control valve that came with the kit. The original prop valve is now just a joiner for the front brakes. Downside is I lost my brake warning idiot light. Oh well too bad!!
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#3
(01-04-2019, 07:30 PM)Stanglover Wrote:  For a low buck and great quality, my choice was SSBC 4 piston Kelsey-Hayes style. They fit right onto your drum spindles and very easy to do. When I did mine, I also changed all the brake lines. I chose SS, but good quality steel lines will last longer than the rest of the car, easier to work with as well. You will need new flex lines for sure. You can get these brakes from National Parts Depot amongst others. Oh, these will work with 14" wheels. I run aftermarket Magnum 500's. Also, forgot to mention, I did not have a power booster for the first 3 years, only adding that 2 years ago. On the back circuit, I used a separate adjustable control valve that came with the kit. The original prop valve is now just a joiner for the front brakes. Downside is I lost my brake warning idiot light. Oh well too bad!!
Geoff.

Thanks Geoff, I didn't even think of NPD, I checked the two big suppliers. I plan to do the booster at the same time. Someone mentioned that you also need to replace the brake pedal or redrill the pivot point with the new booster. I did see one kit that included a new pedal as well. My brake lines are shot so that is also on the ticket with a new fuel line from the tank forward. 
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#4
I also have a manual Drum Car and am also working on the brakes right now.

I am in the process of changing out all the lines to SS Disc lines.

Some observations.....

The Bracket that secures the front Brake Hose appears to be different on a Disc car than a drum car. When you get the Disc Lines, they will have bends in them that won't match up to your drum hose bracket, so you may have to bend them a bit. I did, and it wasnt hard.

Drum Car Bracket
[Image: 20181230-175311.jpg]

Disc Car Bracket

[Image: Disc-Brake-Line.jpg]


The Ends of the Disc Brake Line Kit Will be different in some places than the Drum Line Kit.  ie, the master cylinder lines will have different fittings.   Depending on which proportional valve you use, you may need different fittings on the new lines.  If you stick with Mustang specific parts, everything should work fine.  If you go with an after market Proportional valve like I did, The ends will be different.  If you go stainless, you do not want to be changing ends.  So make sure you order the lines with the correct ends.


[Image: 20190103-190345.jpg]


Conversion Kit.

I also like the SSBC Kit.  It is inexpensive and will fit.  I havnt got it yet, but its on my list.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/disc-bra...115/200824
[Image: 1102-14sba-20180412080401.jpg]


Master/Booster Upgrade.
If your kit doesnt come with the master and brake booster, you will need to get them.
I prefer the LEED Brakes 9" Booster.  If you ask nicely when you order they will also send you the new Bolt on Pivot Point for the pedal.

https://leedbrakes.com/i-21155650-9-inch...black.html

[Image: F133294153.jpg]

You could also go with the master/booster combo.
https://leedbrakes.com/i-21155649-hydrau...stang.html

[Image: F133363489.jpg]
You will need to remove the Drivers side Shock Tower Brace for access.  Then Remove the Drum Master Cylinder and disconnect from pedal, and brake switch. (Giant pain in the ass, remove the seat first.)

 This will leave you with 2 Studs holding the Pedal Assembly in place.  Remove the 2 Studs by threading on a nut, then a 2nd nut and lock them into each other, then turn the inside nut to rotate the stud bolt out.

Once the pedal assembly is out You can remove the pedal from the bracket.  If you can, this would be a good time to blast and paint/powder coat all that stuff.

Then using a drill press, drill the hole for the new bolt in pivot point.  Since the rod on the booster is lower than the drum master, it must be relocated.

You can bolt it on, or bolt it and weld it in place.

While everything is out, replace all your lines.  This will be immeasurable fun!  You will need to unbolt the Emissions canister and preferably the vacuum canister to get access to the passenger side lines and union.

Use these Reference pictures as a guide.

[Image: Brake-line-reference-1.jpg]

[Image: Brake-line-reference-2.jpg]

[Image: brake-line-reference-3.jpg]

[Image: Disc-Brake-Line.jpg]

[Image: brake-line-reference-5.jpg]

[Image: brake-line-reference-6.jpg]

[Image: Brake-line-reference-7.jpg]



Then Put back together and mount the booster and pedal assembly.
Mount the Master Cylinder AFTER Bench Bleeding.  Install the lines pointing up so they won't leak fluid and loose prime on the master.

Connect it all up and bleed it.  it will be lots easier to bleed the disc brakes than the drums were.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#5
Excellent help and information!!! Thank you so much, these photos will be saved and printed for sure. Your car is looking really good too, it's an inspiration on what I hope my car will look like when completed. Thank you again.
[+] 1 user Likes slowpoke17's post
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#6
well that one is not mine. Thats the Motorcity Mustang Grabber Lime restoration. A very excellent car.

The really rusty looking one is mine.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#7
i'm in the process of installing the welwood kit front disc kit the only thing i did not get was the proportioning valve .its 575$ but you can catch a sale for 5%,10% and i just missed a 15% off
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#8
(01-04-2019, 08:34 PM)slowpoke17 Wrote:
(01-04-2019, 07:30 PM)Stanglover Wrote:  For a low buck and great quality, my choice was SSBC 4 piston Kelsey-Hayes style. They fit right onto your drum spindles and very easy to do. When I did mine, I also changed all the brake lines. I chose SS, but good quality steel lines will last longer than the rest of the car, easier to work with as well. You will need new flex lines for sure. You can get these brakes from National Parts Depot amongst others. Oh, these will work with 14" wheels. I run aftermarket Magnum 500's. Also, forgot to mention, I did not have a power booster for the first 3 years, only adding that 2 years ago. On the back circuit, I used a separate adjustable control valve that came with the kit. The original prop valve is now just a joiner for the front brakes. Downside is I lost my brake warning idiot light. Oh well too bad!!
Geoff.

Thanks Geoff, I didn't even think of NPD, I checked the two big suppliers. I plan to do the booster at the same time. Someone mentioned that you also need to replace the brake pedal or redrill the pivot point with the new booster. I did see one kit that included a new pedal as well. My brake lines are shot so that is also on the ticket with a new fuel line from the tank forward. 

 When I did my upgrade to booster, yes I needed to relocate the push rod pin down 2". BUT I went the hole hog and as my car is a manual trans, and stripped out the column as well as the bracket and installed ball bearings for the clutch shaft ( Mustang Steve's conversion). If you or anyone else is working with a factory manual trans, do this mod if nothing else. Huge difference on the effort needed to disengage the clutch!!
This has been posted before, but here is a pic of my modded pedal arm. This pin was welded in. Also a couple of other pics that might be helpful. Note the mounted rear brake bias valve.


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I learn something new every day!
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