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Adjusting Rockers
#1
runninpony 
Hi Guys, I have not adjusted the rockers on my 302 Windsor just yet. My C4 is bolted to the engine but both engine and transmission are still out of the car. Now how do you adjust the rockers in this case? Or should I wait until the drive train is in the car and then do the adjustment? I am also planning to replace my push rods since these were left overs from the same engine (but from the first rebuilt) and I do have a set of NOS push rods. Intake manifold has to come off anyways since I didn't use sealer around water jackets. Thanks a bunch!
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#2
Do you have stock heads, or some sort of modified or aftermarket? Stock heads had a bottleneck type stud that you simply torqued down and that was that. Aftermarket cams may have a different base circle and would require an adjustable valvetrain. Simplest way to adjust rockers is to turn the engine to #1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke, adjust both rockers to mfr's spec, rotate engine 90*, adjust next cylinder, etc following through the firing order the cam was ground to.


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#3
Hemi is correct, stock heads, stock cam, stock valves, and stock length pushrods, just torque the rockers down to specs. The clearances and contact pattern between the rocker tip and valve stem should be checked.

An aftermarket camshaft may require adjustable rockers or changing the pushrod length.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
I would have to go to my Ford shop manual but I thought you could adjust all the valves and only turn the engine to three different positions? Have not done since the 70's so a little fuzzy on memory.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#5
Yes, you are correct, top dead center, 90° after top dead center, and bottom dead center.
Attached is the procedure.

.pdf   351C valve adjust.pdf (Size: 300.9 KB / Downloads: 4)



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#6
runninpony 
Yes, everything is stock except for hardened valve seats and .030" over. Should I adjust while engine is out or is it better to install and then adjust? Thanks for all replies!
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#7
It easier to do with it out. With hydraulic lifters it doesn't matter. With solid lifters it has to be done on an engine run stand or in the car because they have to be adjusted with the engine hot (at normal operating temperature).



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#8
(06-02-2018, 09:12 PM)NOT A T5 Wrote: Yes, everything is stock except for hardened valve seats and .030" over. Should I adjust while engine is out or is it better to install and then adjust? Thanks for all replies!

If it's all stock, then follow the procedure in the shop manual, which is essentially "torque rocker nut to X ft/lbs".It's a lot easier to do it while the engine is out.


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#9
My friend that does restorations has an engine stand with radiator, gauges and everything needed to run engine before going into the car. That way you do not have a pristine engine bay and have some issue with the engine or transmission and have to pull it out again.
I see some of the TV builds with the fancy shops put the engine in and start it and have all kinds of issues.
He uses it to break in the cams also instead of being in the car and having to work around the body.
Maybe ask around someone in your area might have a run in stand.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#10
(06-03-2018, 11:35 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: My friend that does restorations has an engine stand with radiator, gauges and everything needed to run engine before going into the car. That way you do not have a pristine engine bay and have some issue with the engine or transmission and have to pull it out again.
I see some of the TV builds with the fancy shops put the engine in and start it and have all kinds of issues.
He uses it to break in the cams also instead of being in the car and having to work around the body.
Maybe ask around someone in your area might have a run in stand.
David

@David, a run in stand is out of the question for me. You mention your friend break in cams this way. Could you extend a bit? How long does that take? My 429 got a cam lobe failure, and I'd love very much to not repeat that.

Also, I received last week my new cam, and first surprise was that I got the cam: period. No cam lube with it. In the past, bought at least 3 cams from Summit and always got that sticky greasy substance for the first install/turns. Any recommendations on what I should use/order aside break-in oil?
Are these packs of lubes obsolete now days because surfaces are made stronger by some treatment or is it simply because of economics?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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