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Adding booster to manual drum car.
#1
As anyone with a 4 wheel manual brake car will know the master bolts on to the top 2 bolts and the bottom 2 are studs. All 4 have to be removed and drilled out to fit the booster.

Does anyone have Any suggestions on removing the lower 2 studs that hold the brake pedal assembly in place?

I have no welder so welding on a nut is not an option.
I was thinking maybe I can grind some flats in the side of the studs and get it out that way but I've never tried that. I dont know what kind of force I'm going to have to put on those studs to get them out.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#2
Put two nuts on the studs and tighten them down against each other. Apply force to the inside nut.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
Well that's an idea I never considered. I'm definitely giving that a try.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#4
Get some pics of your swap. I am getting ready to do the same swap. I have all the parts and may even get a chance this weekend to get started.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#5
2 nuts together worked for me, no problems, they came out easy.
Drilled 7/16th if I remember, but as long as the 3/8 studs clear holes, min 13/32nds
I have lots of tips on this project, so PM me if that is easier than posting everything. Wish I'd taken photos when I did mine, would have been a big help to others.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#6
(11-21-2018, 11:10 AM)turtle5353 Wrote: Get some pics  of your swap. I am getting ready to do the same swap.  I have all the parts and may even get a chance this weekend to get started.

OK, also let me know if I can help.
Maybe I'll do a repost of what I did on my brake booster install. Mine was on a manual trans, so I took advantage and upgraded the clutch shaft bushings to bearings.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#7
One Thing I have planned to do for this project is to get really good photos of the whole process. Since I am a more visual person, this really helps me remember what the hell I did years down the road. I'm not exactly ready to start this project just yet but I am getting closer. I have some parts, but I am still gathering parts and it will be some time before I can get them all.

I am still debating if it would be any value for me to just do the booster now and put the drum brake master on the booster and go with that. I really wanted to get my new Wilwood Proportional valve before I did that just in case my Drum distribution valve totally craps out on me. I'm still not sure if I will need custom lines from the master to the Wilwood valve or if the stock Power lines will reach.

One thing I don't want to do is screw something up and have the car sit un-driveable for an extended period of time, as I just went thru that for 5 months waiting on funds to do the last repair. This car is my son's only means of transportation and he has been stuck in the house too long without it already.

One tip for parents on a budget..... Buy your teenager a classic car. Then get Haggerty insurance. Since its a classic, agreed value insurance is much more lenient on younger drivers. You still get all the liability and coverage as on a modern car, but if you list yourself as the primary driver and your teen as a secondary driver and limit the miles to something reasonable you can save thousands a year. I got a quote from progressive for my 19 year old to drive my 2006 Durango and it was $250 a month. With Haggerty, I pay $150 a year. On top of that if he ever decides to sell the car, he will be able to sell it for more than we paid for it. With a modern car, it looses value every day. Just another plus side to owning a classic.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#8
(11-21-2018, 12:07 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: One Thing I have planned to do for this project is to get really good photos of the whole process.  Since I am a more visual person, this really helps me remember what the hell I did years down the road.   I'm not exactly ready to start this project just yet but I am getting closer.  I have some parts, but I am still gathering parts and it will be some time before I can get them all.  

I am still debating if it would be any value for me to just do the booster now and put the drum brake master on the booster and go with that.  I really wanted to get my new Wilwood Proportional valve before I did that just in case my Drum distribution valve totally craps out on me.  I'm still not sure if I will need custom lines from the master to the Wilwood valve or if the stock Power lines will reach.

 That's up to you, but if it were me, I'd do it all together at one time.
One more thing on the booster install. There is a thin plate that has 4 spacers welded on. These will also need to be drilled out for the studs. You will need to put this back in. also, you will need to cut the hole to match the firewall. See pic.
 Another tip is if you have problems reaching down to fit the booster and tighten the nuts, pull the driver seat and the column. It's not that hard to do. On mine, I was not only adding the booster, but was adding ball bearings for the clutch shaft, so I had the entire bracket out. It also gave me the opportunity to replace the firewall seal and generally clean up the entire area. I did have the huge advantage of not having the motor in, but you don't need to go that far!!
Step by step and as you say, take lots of pics, helps with reassembly.
Geoff.


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I learn something new every day!
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#9
Awesome. I figured I would have to do some trimming. I didn't know about the spaceer plate.

I had planned to remove the pedal assembly completely so I can blast and paint it. Also to drill out the new pedal pivot.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#10
(11-21-2018, 02:21 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: Awesome.  I figured I would have to do some trimming.  I didn't know about the spaceer plate.  

I had planned to remove the pedal assembly completely so I can blast and paint it. Also to drill out the new pedal pivot.

 Good plan. While you have the bracket out, replace the plastic bushings for the brake pedal shaft. I think you have an Auto trans, right?
On the spacer plate, if I remember, it's only the bottom holes that need to be drilled..... or not. Like I said, can't remember that far back. Ain't getting old grand!
 Any help I can offer, just ask. PM if you want to.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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