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Acylic Enamel Paint Question for the paint experts
#1
I purchased a quart of Delstar Acrylic Enamel (DAR#1) from a local paint company that does custom matches if you bring them a part from your car, they then put the paint in rattles cans for me since I don't have paint equipement to spray it on.

After testing the paint on the part I brought them (Trunk lid) the the Delstar 1 step Acrylic Enamel is the paint they recommended for the best match. I purchased the paint to repaint my trunk area/underside of trunk lid and the underside of my hood and any future touch ups. They did a great job of matching the paint but I'm not getting the high gloss like the rest of the car. My car is painted with a one step paint which is what the Delstar Acrylic Enamel is so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. So far all I've painted is the underside of my trunk lid pic (below).

The paint company that sold it told me to spray it on in 2 or 3 coats while still tacky (finger leaves a print but paint doesn't stick to finger on test object) then leave it alone for 90 days except for cleaning since there is "no activator" in it(no buffing, sanding, rubbing compound etc) since it's a single stage paint no clear coat needed . I've attached a pic of the underside of my trunk lid with 3 coats as directed but confused as to why there's no gloss.

Not enough paint? I was told subsequent coats "had" to be applied while the paint was still tacky, now that it's no longer tacky can more coats still be applied? Can a clear coat be added anyway?

In any case I stopped at the underside of the trunk lid until I get some advise on what I may be doing wrong. Confused in Olympia.

Jim

.jpg   trunk.jpg (Size: 47.14 KB / Downloads: 140)

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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#2
Jim and Jutta;81395 Wrote:I purchased a quart of Delstar Acrylic Enamel (DAR#1) from a local paint company that does custom matches if you bring them a part from your car, they then put the paint in rattles cans for me since I don't have paint equipement to spray it on.

After testing the paint on the part I brought them (Trunk lid) the the Delstar 1 step Acrylic Enamel is the paint they recommended for the best match. I purchased the paint to repaint my trunk area/underside of trunk lid and the underside of my hood and any future touch ups. They did a great job of matching the paint but I'm not getting the high gloss like the rest of the car. My car is painted with a one step paint which is what the Delstar Acrylic Enamel is so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. So far all I've painted is the underside of my trunk lid pic (below).

The paint company that sold it told me to spray it on in 2 or 3 coats while still tacky (finger leaves a print but paint doesn't stick to finger on test object) then leave it alone for 90 days except for cleaning since there is "no activator" in it(no buffing, sanding, rubbing compound etc) since it's a single stage paint no clear coat needed . I've attached a pic of the underside of my trunk lid with 3 coats as directed but confused as to why there's no gloss.

Not enough paint? I was told subsequent coats "had" to be applied while the paint was still tacky, now that it's no longer tacky can more coats still be applied? Can a clear coat be added anyway?

In any case I stopped at the underside of the trunk lid until I get some advise on what I may be doing wrong. Confused in Olympia.

Jim
The paint supplier or tech there totally screwed you..Even though it's a "single stage" it still has to be mixed with hardener to cure & impart gloss..Time to strip it off & start over
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/se...l=en&gl=us

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#3
I wish my paint jobs looked that good.

Is it dry yet?

How much per can?

Also, that looks pretty close to the color I intend to paint my ride. Can you buy an extra can for me and charge me + S/H ?

james

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#4
Looks to me (from what I can tell) you did not get an even coat while spraying. It does take about 3 months to cure (depends on temp and humidity) and then you can wet sand and buff. You can start with 800 or 1000 grit, then 1500, then 2000 but be careful not to sand through. the first stage is the cut and the rest is just scratch removal. always keep in mind when sanding of the other stages left so you DON'T SAND TOO MUCH. Check your progress often, you just want to get a smooth surface to polish. And after you are finished you will need to keep it protected from the elements as it will change hues and oxidise rapidly.
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#5
Guy's
Did you read my post & supplied tech sheet on the product ? It needs hardener period..He sprayed it from a can WITHOUT HARDNER..you can buff & sand till the cows come home ..It's never gonna cure properly..the second you go to buff it it's gonna gum up on the suface & buffing pad

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#6
Qcode351mach;81413 Wrote:Guy's
Did you read my post & supplied tech sheet on the product ? It needs hardener period..He sprayed it from a can WITHOUT HARDNER..you can buff & sand till the cows come home ..It's never gonna cure properly..the second you go to buff it it's gonna gum up on the suface & buffing pad

How does krylon do it? assuming the guys that filled his can knew what they were doing it will be fine. But you will never get a hard finish without ketons, toluene, and xylene. If these were added to the pigment and reducer it will work.
A touchup gun can be bought cheap and mix it yourself (best way to do painting is mix yourself to your environment) that way you know it's right and you will have no problems with the curing.
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#7
The paint supplier or tech there totally screwed you..Even though it's a "single stage" it still has to be mixed with hardener to cure & impart gloss..Time to strip it off & start over
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/se...l=en&gl=us
[/quote]

I called the paint shop and asked them about the requirement to have the hardener per the PDF you mentioned. They say that pertains to the newer Delstar "Ultra Polyurethane" Acrylic Enamel paint, the paint they provided me is the older Acrylic Enamel which is what is currently on my car and they insist it doesn't require the hardner for a gloss if applied correctly, they suspect I went to light on the coats. They recommended I paint a piece of scrap metal with "heavy" coats, give it a few hours and see if the paint is glossy or not. If not glossy bring the paint back and they'll refund my money. I'm going to try it on the back of an old license plate.

Jim

Wolverine;81407 Wrote:I wish my paint jobs looked that good.

Is it dry yet?

How much per can?

Also, that looks pretty close to the color I intend to paint my ride. Can you buy an extra can for me and charge me + S/H ?

james

It's dry to the touch but you can still smell it so it's not cured. They charged me $110.00 for the quart paint (that cost included the custom paint matching), the quart makes 7 rattle cans leaving a small amount in the quart can for touch ups like small chips, they charge $10.00 per rattle can they make. My car is painted the commen Bright Red but of course over the years the paint changes so custom matching the current paint is best for touch ups. Here's a link that any paint shop can use to mix that color.

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedis...2_00029_01

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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#8
Jim,
There full of B.S. Call PPG tech line if you want the correct answers...New.. old.. it needs hardener period..As a painter for over 25 years I have never ever seen a shop use acrylic enamel single stage without hardener & reducer. My response to the supply house "Tell them jokes to your folks"

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#9
caspianwendell;81416 Wrote:
Qcode351mach;81413 Wrote:Guy's
Did you read my post & supplied tech sheet on the product ? It needs hardener period..He sprayed it from a can WITHOUT HARDNER..you can buff & sand till the cows come home ..It's never gonna cure properly..the second you go to buff it it's gonna gum up on the suface & buffing pad

How does krylon do it? assuming the guys that filled his can knew what they were doing it will be fine. But you will never get a hard finish without ketons, toluene, and xylene. If these were added to the pigment and reducer it will work.
A touchup gun can be bought cheap and mix it yourself (best way to do painting is mix yourself to your environment) that way you know it's right and you will have no problems with the curing.
We are talking automotive paint made by ppg not krylon homeowner hobbyist paint..different formulations
When was the last time you painted a car using single stage enamel with out hardener ?
You know as well as I do they took the stock formula or used a spectrometer to get the base toners..went to the rack pulled the toners as per the formula..mixed the paint..then instead of putting it in a can..packaged it in spray bombs for him..I will bet my last dollar if you buy a factory pack of the OLD delstar it says right on the can "must be mixed with other products" I've seen plently of paint supplier workers give wrong information concerning product use..Thats why you always go to the manufacturer for the correct information

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#10
Qcode351mach;81475 Wrote:
caspianwendell;81416 Wrote:
Qcode351mach;81413 Wrote:Guy's
Did you read my post & supplied tech sheet on the product ? It needs hardener period..He sprayed it from a can WITHOUT HARDNER..you can buff & sand till the cows come home ..It's never gonna cure properly..the second you go to buff it it's gonna gum up on the suface & buffing pad

How does krylon do it? assuming the guys that filled his can knew what they were doing it will be fine. But you will never get a hard finish without ketons, toluene, and xylene. If these were added to the pigment and reducer it will work.
A touchup gun can be bought cheap and mix it yourself (best way to do painting is mix yourself to your environment) that way you know it's right and you will have no problems with the curing.
We are talking automotive paint made by ppg not krylon homeowner hobbyist paint..different formulations
When was the last time you painted a car using single stage enamel with out hardener ?
LOL I have never shot auto paint without a hardener but have painted a lot of things with rattle cans and all this reminds me back about 84 a guy I was working part time for (auto mechanic) wanted me to paint his wrecker so I agreed. Well he goes down to the local home store and brings back 2 gallons of black oil base enamel, I said "that won't work" and he said "just paint it". so I did. I am still amazed at how great that turned out and how long it lasted, people couldn't believe it was HOUSE PAINT!!!...lol...and I shot it outside.
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