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AC Port low side
#1
I had my AC converted a while away to R134A, but when the shop rebuilt the engine I don't think they recharged the system.

Can someone post a pic of the low AC port as I would just rather recharge it myself as getting the car back to the shop is a pain.

Thanks

[/url][Image: mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png]

[url=http://s165.photobucket.com/user/MPBsr25/media/mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png.html]
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#2
If the system was opened or leaked out, you shouldn't just recharge it.
It should be evacuated with a vacuum pump to remove any moisture from the system first. Plus once a vacuum is pulled it can be left to set there for a little while, this will show there are no leaks if the vacuum holds.

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

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#3
OMS;270432 Wrote:If the system was opened or leaked out, you shouldn't just recharge it.
It should be evacuated with a vacuum pump to remove any moisture from the system first. Plus once a vacuum is pulled it can be left to set there for a little while, this will show there are no leaks if the vacuum holds.

+1
When I had mine done after converting it they pulled a vacuum and held it for 30 minutes to ensure it was not leaking. Pressures very for each type of refrigerant, here's the one for R134A.


Attached Files
.jpg   1214697d1372440308-honda-idsi-gas-charging-servicing-diy-few-questions-r134atemp-pressure-chart.jpg (Size: 52.03 KB / Downloads: 83)

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#4
Curious... with the conversion to 134A, what was involved and how does it operate in comparison to the factory R-12 system? My understanding is that you retain the factory system components more or less, which would be my goal on my current restoration. Thanks
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#5
Pastel Blue;270437 Wrote:Curious... with the conversion to 134A, what was involved and how does it operate in comparison to the factory R-12 system? My understanding is that you retain the factory system components more or less, which would be my goal on my current restoration. Thanks

As far as I know, all factory components are the same.

Here's a pic of the system. I'm guessing the black cap is the low side port?

Can anyone confirm?

   

[/url][Image: mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png]

[url=http://s165.photobucket.com/user/MPBsr25/media/mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png.html]
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#6
That line looks like it is going forward to the condenser ?

The low side [ suction ] would be the large line coming from the firewall to the compressor

The large line going to the condenser is the HI pressure side

CAUTION
If your not sure what your doing you can rupture lines.
I've seen some hellacious pressures - they could do some damage.
Even the low pressure liquid can cause freeze injuries.
Not trying to discourage you or be a D here but would you be comfortable recharging you home A/C system?

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

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#7
OMS;270445 Wrote:That line looks like it is going forward to the condenser ?

The low side [ suction ] would be the large line coming from the firewall to the compressor

The large line going to the condenser is the HI pressure side

CAUTION
If your not sure what your doing you can rupture lines.
I've seen some hellacious pressures - they could do some damage.
Even the low pressure liquid can cause freeze injuries.
Not trying to discourage you or be a D here but would you be comfortable recharging you home A/C system?

+1
You don't want to put more than the recommended amount of refrigerant into the system. I have seen the gasket on the compressor rupture because it was overfilled.

I have converted a r12 system with R134A without changing the components with no issues. I personally think R12 cools much better but the conversion was good too.

If I remember correctly the fill ports need to be changed, it was a long time ago and I don't really remember. Much easier to take the vehicle to a service center to get this conversion done.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#8
John is correct, with all components the same R12 will cool better. I believe R134 systems have larger condensers to achieve the same cooling. I've done the conversion a couple of times and have been satisfied with the results using original components.

Are you sure yours was converted? My conversions a came with R134 snap-on coupler converters.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#9
Don C;270449 Wrote:John is correct, with all components the same R12 will cool better. I believe R134 systems have larger condensers to achieve the same cooling. I've done the conversion a couple of times and have been satisfied with the results using original components.

Are you sure yours was converted? My conversions a came with R134 snap-on coupler converters.


Yes, mine was def converted about 2 years ago. So going back to R12 isn't an option.

Looking at the Acprocold web site the black cap which attaches to a port is the low port as the hose also connects to the evaporator, of which it does.

http://acprocold.com/ac-pro-instructions/

[/url][Image: mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png]

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#10
Check out Red Tek 12a...suppose to work with for R12 systems and R134. Anyone Try that yet?

Thanks

Tim
Tucson, Az
1973 SportsRoof
351C bored .040
Crank .020  and Stock cam
Flattop pistons
Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE
Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

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