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A/C Compressor Removal
#1
Due to a heater core leak, I was forced to disconnect the A/C lines going to the heater box. I figured this would be a good time to get the A/C back in working order. I ordered all new hoses, and other parts needed to retrofit the system to R134. Keep in mind i'm going for originality with this car so try not to give me grief about the York and R134... Anyway, Original Air is taking their sweet time getting my hose kit shipped out so I'm currently trying to remove the compressor so the A/C shop can change out all the seals. For the love of god, how many bolts do you need to hold in an A/C compressor? Apparently 7 is the magic number that Ford decided upon, and doubled down by burying two of them so deep, a deep water drilling rig couldn't reach em. So what's the trick for getting this monster out? Is there a way to get to all four bolts on the underside of the compressor, or do I need to remove the bracket? Thanks. Banghead
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#2
if I remember correctly remove the bracket and compressor and then its easy.
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#3
(01-30-2018, 12:47 AM)libram Wrote: if I remember correctly remove the bracket and compressor and then its easy.

+1. It is a PITA. Took me longer to pull the AC than it did to pull engine.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#4
Great. I get to pull the fan and pullys off again...
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#5
I did my 73 and charged in in August will have to check tomorrow and see if it is still holding. I had never done any air conditioner work but when I found out how much they wanted I went to Harbor Freight and bought the vacuum pump and gauges and it went fine. I actually switched to the newest new, Dura Cool a highly refined propane product and it only took on 8 oz. can to get the system cooling. When I pulled the vacuum on the system I let is sit couple hours to look for leaks but it never lost any vacuum. You use the same o-rings as 134 so no issue there. I lubed all the o-rings and connections with mineral oil and put on a new dryer. I used my old hoses just flushed them out with water and used round wire brush inside metal ends. Cleaned all the connections with fine steel wool also. I tested condenser and evaporator under water before install.
Also test you new heater core before you install the first new one I got had a leak down in the middle of it. That is the second one I have had from a new core, new does not mean good. Got bad fuel pump also new. I put 15 lbs. air pressure on heater core about what the system runs at.Install new foam in the heater box also. Add the piece of wire mesh like in the picture to keep the critters out of the heater box. Also put wire mesh under the cowl vents to keep critters out and the only other place is the two drains for the cowl you can reach from inside the cowl and stuff some stainless steel scrubber pad in the drain to close it up for critters. 
I actually do not like air but it was on the car so I fixed it. Still has the old compressor. Will check tomorrow and see if it still cools.
David

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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