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9" rear shock mounting plates
#1
Hi,

Somebody experience with those parts from CJ :

Ron Morris Rear Shock Plates Pair 8"/9" Rear Axle 1964-1973

Every advice is welcome.

THANKS,
Eddy
Tongue
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#2
No experience with them but, it seems like a lot of money for what you are getting. Chuck
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#3
Yes a lot of money.

I'm in need for a very good/crack free R-side for a 9" rear standard shock mounting plate(passenger side).

I hava PM-contact with a few members here but without luck(Don/71steed/aypsears) .

I have also contact with( http://www.prestigemustang.com )but they are asking $200 without shipping... and for me over the total cost +21% import fee

Eddy
Huh

c9zx;184616 Wrote:No experience with them but, it seems like a lot of money for what you are getting. Chuck
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#4
c9zx;184616 Wrote:No experience with them but, it seems like a lot of money for what you are getting. Chuck

+ 1
Also how can they be 65 - 73
I have repro shock plates there are two versions
65 - 66 and another set for 67-70

I will do some more digging today and see if I can come up with a good set. Sorry for being slow lately - new medical treatments are leaving me with zero energy.
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#5
Drill the end of the crack, to keep it from going any further. Then V-out the crack with grinder, weld it up, grind it smooth, paint it and good to go. I made my own brackets when I swapped in the 8.8 rear end. Save a lot of cash

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#6
turtle5353;184627 Wrote:Drill the end of the crack, to keep it from going any further. Then V-out the crack with grinder, weld it up, grind it smooth, paint it and good to go. I made my own brackets when I swapped in the 8.8 rear end. Save a lot of cash


This method I had originally planned but received negative responses from other people because of the softness along the new seam ...
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#7
eddyw;184631 Wrote:
turtle5353;184627 Wrote:Drill the end of the crack, to keep it from going any further. Then V-out the crack with grinder, weld it up, grind it smooth, paint it and good to go. I made my own brackets when I swapped in the 8.8 rear end. Save a lot of cash


This method I had originally planned but received negative responses from other people because of the softness along the new seam ...

If done right the weld will be stronger than the base material. Like I said I made my own by welding the angled "ears" of the shock mount to a new piece of flat steel that I drilled to match the u-bolt size needed for my new 8.8 and have not had one bit of trouble in the 4 or 5 years or so that its been in there. I am running over 550+HP through it too.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#8
weld it up, it will be fine. Many people are alarmists-I've seen much worse still on cars that operated just perfectly. If you aren't comfortable with your welding skills, pull it off and take it to a good welder.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#9
I have an extra set. PM sent.

Ron
Rusty, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.
Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.
El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.
Bubba, my 1994 F150, daily driver
Formerly, a 1973 Ford Mustang Coupe - a work in progress, then a car-b-qued banana.
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#10
Agree, weld them up. Done it many times. The ones above from CJpony are universal fit, note the slotted ubolt holes. The ones pictured are for tying down your car when trailering it. Note the box like hole on the rear. It's for the tie down strap hooks.
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