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'73 'vert: Power window motor and drive removal
#1
I need to pull the passenger front power window motor and drive to replace some worn bushings.  I'm hoping someone else has been down this path before ('73 Mustang 'vert, factory power windows).

This part in the Ford Manual has me concerned:  drill holes in my car???
(Pg 42-07-03)
"3.  On Mustang and Cougar models, make a template from the dimensions given in Fig 5.  The dimensions shown are for right doors.  Reverse the template for left doors.  All other models except Ford, Mercury and Meteor have holes punched in the door for motor and drive removal.  On Ford, Mercury and Meteor, it will be necessary to drill a 3/4 inch access hole for the lower attaching screw at the dimple in the inner panel.
4.  Position the template... punch the drill locations center point.
5.  Remove the template and drill holes with a 3/4 inch hole saw."

Have you done this?  Is there any feasible workaround?
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#2
I have done it and it not hard. The metal is thin. You need to do it you can get to the bolts that hold the motor in place. A good idea to order some new door skin clips and water proof door  liner. Half the clips on my car where missing and the door liner was gone. The holes are drilled on the interior of the door and are cover by the door skin No one will ever see them unless the interior door skin is off.


John J
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#3
(07-09-2019, 06:34 PM)John J Wrote: I have done it and it not hard. The metal is thin. You need to do it you can get to the bolts that hold the motor in place. A good idea to order some new door skin clips and water proof door  liner. Half the clips on my car where missing and the door liner was gone. The holes are drilled on the interior of the door and are cover by the door skin No one will ever see them unless the interior door skin is off.


John J

Thanks - good tips.  Already have the new clips ready to go, but door liner I don't.  Yet.
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#4
Here the water shield  door liner for a convertible.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/watershi...&year=1973


John J
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#5
I took mine out without drilling anything.  I disconnected the glass from the regulator and pulled the whole assembly out.

Not sure why they say to drill it, except that seemed to be the practice back then.  My dad's 73 LTD wagon had a panel to cut out of the wheel well for the blower motor to be replaced.  There was a cut line in the steel even.

kcmash
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#6
I am with Kcmash on this. I removed and refurbished my door motors (front and back), I did not have to drill anything. I first remove the glass and the regulator, but I am not sure even this is needed to remove the motors. I replaced the plastic gear as mine was gummed up and brittle and I restamped the yellow Bosch/Ford part numbers on the casing. If you need the gear part number, let me know and I will look for it. I know I have it somewhere.

[Image: 20140923-201126.jpg]

[Image: Front-Door-Power-Window-Motors.jpg]

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image hosting

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
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[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












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#7
If Ford put it together without hole you can take apart, lol. I guess the hole is to cut time to replace just the drive motor.
You need to pull it all out and clean all the old grease off the tracks, rollers, guide rail and window guides. The motors are still available and also the repair kits if the motor is ok. I would use the Lucas Red N Tacky #2 grease in the gear case and also on rollers, guides and such.
There are couple clips in the guide that help prevent the glass from rattling when you shut the door. If missing look in the door might still be good. Also good time to vacuum out any dirt or stuff inside the door. If the sealer along the bottom is cracked I would seal it again. Washing these cars and getting water inside the doors will rust them out.
Some have said to get the glass out you have to drill the rivets out of the round nylon stops on the glass but you can get out without removing. Where the lock rod comes up out of the door is a opening that you can slip first the rear out and then bring the front to the opening and lift it out.
Some pictures of stuff.
If your guides are broken or worn out they do make repo Don has them.
When you do the rear ones glass comes out the top and drive out the bottom.
You should not have to force anything out or in. They drop right into place if you have right approach.

[Image: DSC-2379.jpg]

[Image: grease.jpg]


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David
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