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72 mach 1 Grandmas original first car
#11
Very nice.

- Mike
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#12
just some additional notes, the engine is too strong Smile I've got to put silencers in the exhaust, its not just nasty rumbling loud but over 45 its unbearably loud. Also I've got some minor problems with the cosmetics of the rim blow wheel. The chrome strip has peeled off on the bottom portion. Anyone have any NC local suggestions for cosmetic repair on a rim blow wheel?
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#13
runninpony 
Great Job, like the stance!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#14
Car looks amazing!
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#15
Looks great!

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#16
Car is looking great.
Sorry no suggestions on the rib blow. I doubt if anyone would ever notice it. Normal people do not look at details only MCA judges that have to find something wrong.
One of the biggest mistakes people make when doing a restore is that they do the drive train first. That should be the last thing you do. Yes tear it down and check to see what is needed but do not build the engine. It will sit there with the cam holding some of the valves open and all the cam lube will get dry.
When you take a car to a shop for work you should do weekly checks and only pay as work is completed. Have a written and signed agreement with the shop and make the person doing the work sign also with a personal commitment. If they will not do that then leave.
There was a local guy here that took hundreds of thousands of dollars from customers that got nothing but promises. There was no personal recourse since he had a LLC to hide behind and just went under. The customers were doing business with the LLC not him.
You can build a transmission or rear but do not assemble your engine until the body is ready. You should also find someone that can break in the engine on dyno or run in stand before putting in the car. I laugh at the guys on TV that are Professionals. They put engine in and coolant everywhere or it will not run. Then you get a big mess on your nice clean car.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#17
That turned out excellent, great job  beer

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
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#18
Looks excellent. I like the red exterior.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#19
so here's an interesting note, apparently I built the motor so strong flowmaster 50 series cant handle the exhaust, its unbearably loud. At idle its mean, really mean, but at 45 mph its hard to concentrate. So, next step, lets put dynomax turbo mufflers behind a 500 hp Cleveland and see if its workable. If that fails to take the db's down enough i'll let you all know how well cc inserts work. I'll take some db measurements for reference as I go and report here.
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#20
So are you signed up for track day in April for the MOM Mustang Owner's Museum 55 ann. meet? Get to run the Roval at the Charlotte track. Need more mustangs to break the current world record for most in a parade. Believe it or not Mexico holds the record I think 900 + and they only have 400 signed up so far. Depending on your tires, belts and equipment on your car they set max speed you can run.
Do you have a drive shaft loop on the car? Might better put one on with that much hp kicking around.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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