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72 Conv Front End Replacement
#11
interesting posts. I have a 72 mach1 also and the steering is sloppy, mushy, and unresponsive. thinking of going to a mustang II with power rack n pinion, and lowering the front.
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#12
Mustang II swap is really not needed. My steering was extremely bad, to the point of being a safety issue wandering all over the road. I rebuilt the front suspension with all moog parts and boxed in my lower control arms. upgraded to 1" lowering springs, larger front sway bar, KYB shocks and had my steering box rebuilt by powersteering.com and converted to a quick ratio. It now handles pretty damn close to a modern car.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#13
(04-26-2019, 11:38 AM)don blanchard Wrote: interesting posts. I have a 72 mach1 also and the steering is sloppy, mushy, and unresponsive.  thinking of going to a mustang II with power rack n pinion, and lowering the front.



No idea why people think this is the cure-all for a worn out front end. You need to remove the shock towers and dice up the front of the car to make this work. Lots of cutting, measuring and in the end you have a less than optimal front suspension. It's a great option for a street rod, completely unnecessary for a 71-73 unless you're planning a Coyote swap. The towers on these cars were designed to accommodate a Boss 429 in a production environment. 

For around $1000 and some DIY labor,  you can have a completely rebuilt front suspension and steering system.


(04-26-2019, 02:49 PM)73pony Wrote: Mustang II swap is really not needed. My steering was extremely bad, to the point of being a safety issue wandering all over the road. I rebuilt the front suspension with all moog parts and boxed in my lower control arms. upgraded to 1" lowering springs, larger front sway bar, KYB shocks and had my steering box rebuilt by powersteering.com and converted to a quick ratio. It not handles pretty damn close to a modern car.

Pretty much the same here. Fresh parts make all the difference.


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#14
thanks for the info, will ponder this , would be a lot less work and money....
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#15
Not sure what your expectations are, but when everything is in good working order, the steering is pretty tight for a car of era. My guess would that it would be much easier to go with coil overs vs. A mustang II setup.

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#16
(04-26-2019, 02:49 PM)73pony Wrote: Mustang II swap is really not needed. My steering was extremely bad, to the point of being a safety issue wandering all over the road. I rebuilt the front suspension with all moog parts and boxed in my lower control arms. upgraded to 1" lowering springs, larger front sway bar, KYB shocks and had my steering box rebuilt by powersteering.com and converted to a quick ratio. It now handles pretty damn close to a modern car.

did you get the shocks and sway bar from moog? I think i'll go this route so I"ll have some $$ to invest in a EFI system, any one know of a good one for a 351 Cleveland?
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#17
The sway bar I purchased from another member on here used. It is a 1 1/8”. The shocks are KYB Gas-a-just shocks purchased from Rock Auto. The springs I ordered were from Eaton Detroit.
Here is a link to my thread on boxing the LCAs.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-lca-...light=LCAs

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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