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71 mustang 351c adding clutch fan
#11
(11-16-2019, 12:04 PM)Hemikiller Wrote: Here's the parts needed for a clutched fan conversion.

The clutch you need is the Hayden 2710. The fan blade is Derale 18" 17118. You'll also need a stud kit, as using bolts in this application is a serious lesson in frustration.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...2&jsn=2293

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118-Clut...B004XONYK2

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23733...B000CO779G
Thanks!! Parts are on the way!! Appreciate the info and fast response
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#12
Yup - a lot of it is actually on my head, too.



rofl

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#13
If you haven’t ordered anything yet, I have a set for you to consider. I ran an 83 F350 fan clutch on a 9 bladed 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 fan. I have since moved on to dual electric SPAL with a variable speed controller. I ran this combo on the 2018 Hot Rod Power Tour.
Not sure how to get it to Madison VA but if you have someone coming through Fairmont WV, I’d be willing to meet.

Aaron


[Image: 83710-E1-E-F607-4-E44-85-B6-09-B9-DCBC2-C01.jpg]

[Image: FC4-A43-A1-2530-48-C8-8635-A0-DC4-A45-AF9-F.jpg]
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#14
Is there an optimum clearance between fan an shroud? Also, should the fan be all the way into the shroud or partly? I am wondering if someone knows these variables to optimize cooling.

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[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#15
Typical wisdom is half a fan blade exposed out of the shroud and 1" clearance to the shroud itself.

71-73s used three diameter fans, 17 1/2", 18 1/2" and 19".

19" was 429 only

Aftermarket doesn't sell the fan in 1/2" sizes, so use the one that best fits your shroud.


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#16
(02-06-2020, 08:58 AM)Hemikiller Wrote: Typical wisdom is half a fan blade exposed out of the shroud and 1" clearance to the shroud itself.

Interesting about half blade exposed. Mine has almost the whole blade into the shroud. I wonder if i should go with a smaller spacer betweeen pulley and clutch.

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[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#17
The values we specify to our customers buying our industrial engines but designing their own cooling systems using a puller fan are 1/2 to 2/3 (2/3 is the target) of the blade width inside the shroud and radial clearance set to the minimum required to prevent interference. We ask for 10-20mm depending on whether the engine is mounted solidly or on isolators.

Just an FYI for what we do for cooling system design.

-Matt
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#18
(02-07-2020, 12:36 PM)mjlan Wrote: The values we specify to our customers buying our industrial engines but designing their own cooling systems using a puller fan are 1/2 to 2/3 (2/3 is the target) of the blade width inside the shroud and radial clearance set to the minimum required to prevent interference. We ask for 10-20mm depending on whether the engine is mounted solidly or on isolators.

Just an FYI for what we do for cooling system design.

-Matt
Great information. That said i would have to find a way to move the fan closer to the engine. Unfortunately I just bought a new clutch when i did my engine. That included adding a new radiator which was thicker thus moving the shroud backwards.
Any ideas which clutch fan would work?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#19
(02-08-2020, 12:14 AM)tony-muscle Wrote:
(02-07-2020, 12:36 PM)mjlan Wrote: The values we specify to our customers buying our industrial engines but designing their own cooling systems using a puller fan are 1/2 to 2/3 (2/3 is the target) of the blade width inside the shroud and radial clearance set to the minimum required to prevent interference. We ask for 10-20mm depending on whether the engine is mounted solidly or on isolators.

Just an FYI for what we do for cooling system design.

-Matt
Great information. That said i would have to find a way to move the fan closer to the engine. Unfortunately I just bought a new clutch when i did my engine. That included adding a new radiator which was thicker thus moving the shroud backwards.
Any ideas which clutch fan would work?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


Generally, there is no spacer between the water pump pulley and the flange on the clutch. If you have one, consider removing it and see where that puts your fan. Hayden does make a shorter clutch that is a direct swap for the 2710, the 2711. It's 3/8" shorter. There are others that look like they'll work, but you'd have to do some measuring to see if they'll work.


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#20
Thanks. I miswrote. The spacer i was talking about is part of the clutch so all i need is a clutch with a shorter "shaft". I will lookup those numbers.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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