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71 Idler Arm w/Power Steering repair or replacement
#1
Hello All and Happy New Year!

I'm working on my 71 Mach 1 with power steering and checking and replacing all the suspension and steering parts showing signs of wear. The existing idler has Ford paint markings on it so I believe it is the original idler.

I bought what I believed to be the correct Moog bushings for this K8103 and K8094 but now I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the original bushings out. So I'm faced with some questions.

  *Can anyone verify that these are the correct bushings for a power steering idler arm?  I've contacted Moog directly and am awaiting a response from them.  They've already told me they don't carry a 71 power steering idler arm replacement.

  *Any tips on how to get those bushings out?  I've gone to two local machine shops (in my small town) and the guys seem to be at a loss on how to get them out because of the "flange" surrounding the bushings.

  *If I can't get them out, what's the difference between a PS and Manual steering idler arm?  Seems you can find a manual idler but a PS one seems to be more difficult.  Are there PS idlers out there?

The picture below shows the original idler arm with the replacement bushings/boxes (I hope they are correct).


[Image: IMG-5146.jpg]



Thanks!
Scott
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#2
My '71 shop manual does not show a procedure for removing the bushings, instead it says that if the bushings are loose the entire idler arm assembly must be replaced.

I would try drilling, cutting, or burning out the rubber, like I have for leaf spring bushings that are non-cooperative. Then cut a groove in the metal shell so you can pry it loose. By appearance, the bushings look correct. Maybe someone will chime in that has actually gone through this.

The idler arms are the same for power and manual steering for our cars. This has been discussed before on the forum.
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-idle...arts-20250?



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
I rebuilt the idler arm in my 71, since all the aftermarket and repops were incorrect.

It's been a while, but IIRC, like Don said, I simply burned the rubber out with an acetylene torch and then collapsed the outer shells. You could use a hacksaw or sawzall to cut inside the shell to give it a good score line, then use a cold chisel to collapse the shell from the outside.

Installation is easy, find a socket that allows the bushing to pass through, but will bear on the face of the idler arm. Use a shop press, arbor press or even a large vise to push them in place.


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#4
Based on suggestions from previous conversations on here I purchased the Proforged 102-10076. It matched up and fit perfectly and I have had no issues. I had originally ordered a moog one but it did not appear to be the best quality and did not match geometry exactly. Here is a link to the one I purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/Proforged-102-100...B00CU6HDSE

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#5
The one I purchased also had far different look, but the geometry was the same and although it physically looked different, it performed exactly as the original. This has been discussed as well. The real issue with the one I bought was I needed to slot the top hole for it to fit. I was NOT impressed, but I needed to get the car running and had no time to take it back to NPD in Detroit.
Geoff.

EDIT: here is a quick sketch of what I mean. As long as "X" from DATUM C/L to center of the outer bushing is the same and "Y" is the same to the datum (bottom of the lower bolt hole) then it matters not where the lower bushings or the location and shape of the arms are. The arc scribed by the outer bushing relevant to the datum center line, will be the same. The sketch isn't very clear, but I think you'll see what I mean.


Attached Files
.pdf   Idler arm.pdf (Size: 141.82 KB / Downloads: 12)

I learn something new every day!
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#6
(01-09-2019, 09:50 AM)73pony Wrote: Based on suggestions from previous conversations on here I purchased the Proforged 102-10076. It matched up and fit perfectly and I have had no issues. I had originally ordered a moog one but it did not appear to be the best quality and did not match geometry exactly. Here is a link to the one I purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/Proforged-102-100...B00CU6HDSE

In trying to decide which path to take I called Summit and asked about the Proforged 102-10076 idler arm.  I was told that it's been discontinued by Proforged. 

Sad

Scott
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#7
(01-09-2019, 03:59 PM)Stanglover Wrote: The one I purchased also had far different look, but the geometry was the same and although it physically looked different, it performed exactly as the original. This has been discussed as well. The real issue with the one I bought was I needed to slot the top hole for it to fit. I was NOT impressed, but I needed to get the car running and had no time to take it back to NPD in Detroit.
Geoff.

EDIT: here is a quick sketch of what I mean. As long as "X" from DATUM C/L to center of the outer bushing is the same and "Y" is the same to the datum (bottom of the lower bolt hole) then it matters not where the lower bushings or the location and shape of the arms are. The arc scribed by the outer bushing relevant to the datum center line, will be the same. The sketch isn't very clear, but I think you'll see what I mean.

Stanglover,

Thanks for the sketch, it does a good job of explaining.

Scott
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#8
Here is one you can try. These guys are really knowledgeable and will know if this works or if there have been any issues.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/71idler.html

Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
  Reply
#9
(01-08-2019, 08:06 PM)Hemikiller Wrote: I rebuilt the idler arm in my 71, since all the aftermarket and repops were incorrect.

It's been a while, but IIRC, like Don said, I simply burned the rubber out with an acetylene torch and then collapsed the outer shells. You could use a hacksaw or sawzall to cut inside the shell to give it a good score line, then use a cold chisel to collapse the shell from the outside.

Installation is easy, find a socket that allows the bushing to pass through, but will bear on the face of the idler arm. Use a shop press, arbor press or even a large vise to push them in place.

Thank you to both Don and Hemikiller for advice on how to remove the old bushings.  I've done something like that before using my sawsall and I'll give it a try!

Scott
  Reply
#10
(01-09-2019, 04:56 PM)Monterey Wrote:
(01-09-2019, 09:50 AM)73pony Wrote: Based on suggestions from previous conversations on here I purchased the Proforged 102-10076. It matched up and fit perfectly and I have had no issues. I had originally ordered a moog one but it did not appear to be the best quality and did not match geometry exactly. Here is a link to the one I purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/Proforged-102-100...B00CU6HDSE

In trying to decide which path to take I called Summit and asked about the Proforged 102-10076 idler arm.  I was told that it's been discontinued by Proforged. 

Sad

Scott

Looks like the amazon link still showed one left there. It did fit perfectly.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
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