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71-73 performance and price.
#1
I am wondering what kind of performance would a 71-73 Mustang give with a 351 2v automatic with 3.00 rear gear.

Also what would one cost to buy in #3 driver condition. Base Mustang not a Mach or anything fancy.

All help is greatly appreciated.

Moe
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#2
Which base mustang. The base convertible, the base coupe or the base fastback?

2011 Buick Regal
2010 Ford F150 Screw
2002 Triumph Trophy
1973 Dodge Challenger RT
1972 Mustang Grandé Coupe
1954 Ford F100
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#3
Far too many unknown variables in that question! As stated, which car, what condition is the drivetrain, etc.

But the wisdom that is from above is first pure, then peaceable, gentle, and easy to be intreated, full of mercy and good fruits, without partiality, and without hypocrisy. James 3:17 (KJV)

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#4
One thing I will say. You will find that these cars in this era did not come from the factory with loads of HP because of Jimmy Carter and the present political atmosphere. In fact Ford (the president) was an ass as well. What you will find though is that for a reasonably small amount of investment you can get your car to scream from point a to point b. In fact I would say that a well modified 351C could stomp the living hell out of any present day stock mustang, camaro or challenger. And do it safely too.

2011 Buick Regal
2010 Ford F150 Screw
2002 Triumph Trophy
1973 Dodge Challenger RT
1972 Mustang Grandé Coupe
1954 Ford F100
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#5
Base coupe or fastback as I am not a convertible man. Figure drivetrain in good running condition at 100k miles.
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#6
moejr;37114 Wrote:Base coupe or fastback as I am not a convertible man. Figure drivetrain in good running condition at 100k miles.

As described - high 15's
With a Holley 500 - mid 15's
With a 4v intake and 4 bbl carb - low 15's at best
This assumes you have dual exhaust and the stock exhaust manifolds
Headers would cut off a few tenths and a shift kit might help.
Ram air does not really seem to make much difference.
Changing the rear end ratio would certainly improve E.T's at the expense of top speed.
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#7
Not that easy, 1971 had more HP than 1972, which had more HP than 1973 (due to emissions crap). So, if you want the best base performance get a '71.

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#8
That's what I needed to know. This would be a cruiser so all out performance is really not a concern. From what I have gathered the car I described could be had for around 8k? Is that realistic for a #3 car?
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#9
Do you have a particular car in mind, or are you just looking for parameters? In my limited experience, most of what you pay for won't be the drivetrain necessarily, but the condition of the body and interior parts. A shitty rustbucket will obviously be cheaper than an Arizona car, but you'll have to put a lot more work into it. I'd say a plain-jane sportroof 302 2V in decent shape should go for $6-$8,000, but keep in mind this is based on opinion and limited experience. I've seen crappier cars go for $8,000, and I've seen better cars go for sub-$6,000.

BTW, what do you mean by #3 driver car? Weekend cruiser?

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#10
sm3570;37173 Wrote:Do you have a particular car in mind, or are you just looking for parameters? In my limited experience, most of what you pay for won't be the drivetrain necessarily, but the condition of the body and interior parts. A shitty rustbucket will obviously be cheaper than an Arizona car, but you'll have to put a lot more work into it. I'd say a plain-jane sportroof 302 2V in decent shape should go for $6-$8,000, but keep in mind this is based on opinion and limited experience. I've seen crappier cars go for $8,000, and I've seen better cars go for sub-$6,000.

BTW, what do you mean by #3 driver car? Weekend cruiser?

#3 would be a weekend cruiser that the paint and interior may need a little TLC but the drivetrain is solid. Little to no rust is usually in this category.

I do not have a particular car in mind I am just looking for parameters.
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