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71 351C 2V Carb Replacement
#1
Howdy,

My dad and I got his 71 mach 1 firing again over Christmas break, but for some reason any time we shift from park to reverse or drive it automatically dies. At this point we think something's up with the Carb and it just needs to be replaced after 47 years. What's the best carb to replace a 2-barrel Autolite 2100, H-Code with? I've been reading a lot about what people are saying worked for them and Holley seems to be the way to go, whether it be a street demon or quick fuel or what; can I replace it with a 4-bbl carb with limited added modification? What have y'all done or heard that works best? 

Thank you! 

Also y'all will love this, the previous issues we were having where it would smell like gas and never run right before the oil pump jammed were due to the fact that the mechanics who worked on the electronics of it to get it going not only completely mistimed it but switched the 3 and 7 on the distributor so it was firing out of order this whole time.
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#2
If you want to go from a 2bbl to a 4bbl carb you will need to replace the intake manifold as well. Are there any other mods to the engine such as Cam, head work, etc? Also what is the drivetrain? You said automatic with an H code so more than likely an FMX trans, what rear gear ratio? All of these should be taken into account when making any modifications so everything you have works together.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#3
I would rebuild the 2-barrel carburetor and get it running right before going the 4-barrel route. After sitting for a long time there may be other issues you'll need to take care of also.

If you press down the accelerator pedal a little or feather/pump it while shifting into gear can you keep it running?

It could be a number of things, other than carburetor, including vacuum leak(s), timing, spark plugs, points, torque converter, and transmission.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
@73Pony, there are no other mods or anything like that, I don't know the specifics on the rear gear ratio, but it should just be your standard factory conditions.

@Don C, rebuilding the carb is something we talked about doing but think that replacing it might just be the better route, are there any new 2-barrel carbs that would work well with what we have? If we power-brake it you can drive it, but you always have to at least have your foot on the accelerator to do so. Timing, point, and spark plugs were just reset and everything should be fine there. Don't know about torque converter or transmission, however we had it running and driving (not incredibly well, but we now know that's because the distributor firing order was off) this past summer and didn't have any real issues until the oil pump jammed when the sump screen failed to pick up a piece of hardened oil. So I would think the torque converter and transmission would be fine, but I can't say that I've thoroughly inspected them.
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#5
Just a thought. Does the car still have the original door data plate (sticker) on it, drivers side? if it does, can you either take a picture or post what the codes are at the bottom. This will tell the experts, what exactly you have, trans, rear axle etc., unless of course somebody has changed things.
A picture speaks volumes.
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#6
Yeah absolutely, but I'm already back at school and my dad won't get home until later this afternoon so I'll post it once I can get the picture from him!
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#7
(01-15-2018, 03:23 PM)patrickob17 Wrote: Yeah absolutely, but I'm already back at school and my dad won't get home until later this afternoon so I'll post it once I can get the picture from him!

 Sounds good. We look forward to seeing it and hopefully giving you some better information.
Do you have a Marti Report for your car? If not, well worth getting one from martiautoworks It will tell you the whole story on your car.
www.martiauto.com
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#8
Alright, I've attached the picture that should have all of the information that was missing beforehand
[Image: IMG_0032.jpg]
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#9
FMX trans. 3.00 open axel. Medium yellow gold Mach 1. I cant find DSO of 52 though. Weird.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#10
DSO 52 was Des Moines sales District through 1971. In 72 Ford changed 52 to the Dallas sales district.   Smile

Steve

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
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