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408 EFI going back together and have questions
#11
(12-14-2019, 10:29 PM)Don C Wrote: Yes, it is that time of the year, can't believe it's here already.
Merry Christmas.
I see you're not using the normal temperature sender location right below the t-stat housing.
Well done on the housing neck, good looking welds.


At the time of that picture the sending unit for the temperature gauge hadn't been installed yet. The other 2 senders installed in the thermostat housing are for the electric fan controller and high temp warning light (completes ground @ 220°), located in the center dash panel just above the temperature gauge, just in case I'm not paying attention.

[Image: Modded-Center-Gauge-Cluster-Copy.jpg]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxLz1cftS98

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

[+] 1 user Likes EBSTANG's post
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#12
EBSTANG Wrote:
Don C Wrote:Yes, it is that time of the year, can't believe it's here already.
Merry Christmas.
I see you're not using the normal temperature sender location right below the t-stat housing.
Well done on the housing neck, good looking welds.


At the time of that picture the sending unit for the temperature gauge hadn't been installed yet. The other 2 senders installed in the thermostat housing are for the electric fan controller and high temp warning light (completes ground @ 220°), located in the center dash panel just above the temperature gauge, just in case I'm not paying attention.

[Image: Modded-Center-Gauge-Cluster-Copy.jpg]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxLz1cftS98
Hey Eric, got my account back up. Looks good. You mentioned your T-stat is 192 but what temp is your sensor for the fans?
I have to find out what temp my EFI will go into closed loop at. If I have a 195 T-stat would I want to use that matching temp for the fans? Just want to make sure I'm not cooling too much and cause open/closed loop issues.
  Reply
#13
(12-16-2019, 06:55 AM)73\ mach 1 Wrote:
EBSTANG Wrote:
Don C Wrote:Yes, it is that time of the year, can't believe it's here already.
Merry Christmas.
I see you're not using the normal temperature sender location right below the t-stat housing.
Well done on the housing neck, good looking welds.


At the time of that picture the sending unit for the temperature gauge hadn't been installed yet. The other 2 senders installed in the thermostat housing are for the electric fan controller and high temp warning light (completes ground @ 220°), located in the center dash panel just above the temperature gauge, just in case I'm not paying attention.

[Image: Modded-Center-Gauge-Cluster-Copy.jpg]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxLz1cftS98
Hey Eric, got my account back up. Looks good. You mentioned your T-stat is 192 but what temp is your sensor for the fans?
I have to find out what temp my EFI will go into closed loop at. If I have a 195 T-stat would I want to use that matching temp for the fans? Just want to make sure I'm not cooling too much and cause open/closed loop issues.


My controller, located under the dash, has the ability to customize the setting of the range where they first turn on and increase their flow up to 100%. I have it set to turn on at 197°

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

  Reply
#14
EBSTANG Wrote:
73' mach 1 Wrote:
EBSTANG Wrote:At the time of that picture the sending unit for the temperature gauge hadn't been installed yet. The other 2 senders installed in the thermostat housing are for the electric fan controller and high temp warning light (completes ground @ 220°), located in the center dash panel just above the temperature gauge, just in case I'm not paying attention.

[Image: Modded-Center-Gauge-Cluster-Copy.jpg]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxLz1cftS98
Hey Eric, got my account back up. Looks good. You mentioned your T-stat is 192 but what temp is your sensor for the fans?
I have to find out what temp my EFI will go into closed loop at. If I have a 195 T-stat would I want to use that matching temp for the fans? Just want to make sure I'm not cooling too much and cause open/closed loop issues.


My controller, located under the dash, has the ability to customize the setting of the range where they first turn on and increase their flow up to 100%. I have it set to turn on at 197°
Ok. How about the shut off temp?
  Reply
#15
So from some of the stuff I'm reading sounds like my best bet would be to get a 180 T-stat and run a 195 fan switch. Obviously it makes sense that the fans turn on after the stat opened otherwise the fans would be on before the engine even gets up to temp. Either that or I look into utilizing the sniper controlling feature.
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#16
(12-16-2019, 08:20 AM)73\ mach 1 Wrote:
EBSTANG Wrote:
73\ mach 1 Wrote:Hey Eric, got my account back up. Looks good. You mentioned your T-stat is 192 but what temp is your sensor for the fans?
I have to find out what temp my EFI will go into closed loop at. If I have a 195 T-stat would I want to use that matching temp for the fans? Just want to make sure I'm not cooling too much and cause open/closed loop issues.


My controller, located under the dash, has the ability to customize the setting of the range where they first turn on and increase their flow up to 100%. I have it set to turn on at 197°
Ok. How about the shut off temp?


If I recall correctly the range is 15°±.
197° on 182° off...195° on 180° off, etc.
So where I have mine set keeps me at the optimal temp of 193°ish, which is where the Cleveland wants to be. (as designed by Ford)

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

  Reply
#17
(12-16-2019, 06:55 AM)73\ mach 1 Wrote:
EBSTANG Wrote:
Don C Wrote:Yes, it is that time of the year, can't believe it's here already.
Merry Christmas.
I see you're not using the normal temperature sender location right below the t-stat housing.
Well done on the housing neck, good looking welds.


At the time of that picture the sending unit for the temperature gauge hadn't been installed yet. The other 2 senders installed in the thermostat housing are for the electric fan controller and high temp warning light (completes ground @ 220°), located in the center dash panel just above the temperature gauge, just in case I'm not paying attention.

[Image: Modded-Center-Gauge-Cluster-Copy.jpg]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxLz1cftS98
Hey Eric, got my account back up. Looks good. You mentioned your T-stat is 192 but what temp is your sensor for the fans?
I have to find out what temp my EFI will go into closed loop at. If I have a 195 T-stat would I want to use that matching temp for the fans? Just want to make sure I'm not cooling too much and cause open/closed loop issues.

To your point, I have my fans set to turn on @ 197° so that they will only turn on if the radiator cannot keep up when the thermostat opens at 192°. I notice Spring, Fall and of course winter when I go for a cruise, my fans never need to turn on.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

  Reply
#18
(12-11-2019, 11:51 AM)c9zx Wrote: +1 on Don C's suggestion of 180 Degree T-stat. A little more information on cooling. Chuck
https://www.stewartcomponents.com/index....tion_id=11
Very informative Stewart website, Dispels cooling myths I have heard over years. A solid, Non-flex OR clutch fan seems the way to go  Chin
  Reply
#19
I like your warning lights. Idiot lights are better to have than just a gauge. When I went to the NASCAR driving school with Seat Time Racing they wanted us to check oil gauge each lap. LOL they had a huge red light in center right in front of you if you lost oil pressure it came on. You did not have time to look at the gauge. Same when driving in traffic or curves like we have here. The gauges being in the center does not help either. Would be interested in how you hooked them up. I am not any good with car electric things, lol.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#20
(02-11-2020, 10:44 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: I like your warning lights. Idiot lights are better to have than just a gauge. When I went to the NASCAR driving school with Seat Time Racing they wanted us to check oil gauge each lap. LOL they had a huge red light in center right in front of you if you lost oil pressure it came on. You did not have time to look at the gauge. Same when driving in traffic or curves like we have here. The gauges being in the center does not help either. Would be interested in how you hooked them up. I am not any good with car electric things, lol.


David, the answers to "how they were hooked up," are in this thread. Senders sense temperature and pressure and at specific temp and pressure they close the electrical circuit, energizing the warning light. In this case the sender opens and closes the ground side of those two warning light circuits.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

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