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408 EFI going back together and have questions
#1
I'm trying to get anything else I might need while putting everything back together. As mentioned I'm using a full Holley Sniper kit with their ignition kit. I'm going to be using after market gauges for temp, volts and oil.  I'm running electric fans so where is the best spot to put that sensor. I seemed to have miss placed my T-stat housing lid. I know some people use that as a port for the sensor. What housing lid do you guys suggest? I currently have a 195 stat with the matching fan sensor. Should I be using a 185 for both? Car will be a fun driver for spring, summer and fall so I don't plan to drive much in the winter. I remember reading that the Cleveland likes to run hot but wasn't sure about a 408 configuration? Also I'll be using a CVF serpentine kit with AC delete so all of that will be new along with a new kool flow water pump. So anything else I'm missing? Aything else anyone want to add while everything is out of the car? Thanks
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#2
I don't believe that any 351C thermostat housing has a threaded port that a sensor could be connected to. You can get a t-stat housing for a 460 or 400M that has the threaded ports that will work. However, they are angled about 45° forward and not straight up like the Cleveland housing and will require modification of the upper radiator hose, or maybe using the upper hose from a 460 or 400M. This housing is for a 400M
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...97&jsn=558

The housing for 429s in Mustangs appears to have a 90° outlet and do have a threaded port.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/thermost...435/200384
And the upper hose for it may be the easiest to fit
https://www.npdlink.com/product/radiator...617/200382

Because you will not be using it for a daily driver or touring, a 185° thermostat should be fine. The primary reason for a higher degree thermostat is for fuel burning efficiency. You could use the lower temperature sensor with the higher temperature t-stat, also. That way if you don't like the way it runs with the 195° t-stat all you would have to change is the t-stat.

And, you could use the threaded/plugged port in the side of the water pump. But because this is coolant after it circulates through the radiator I would use the 185° sensor at that location.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
I have 3 temp sensors on my 351 with sniper.
One two near pump (as Don C explained), and I also have one at the bottom of the radiator. I use that one for my electric fan.
But if you use the Sniper to trigger, you do not need this one at all. You need the unit connector to match your relay connector.
Something I still need to do.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#4
I myself prefer the 195 thermostat. That gives the coolant more time in the radiator to actually cool. Also if you have an automatic transmission I would go to a stand alone cooler to take that heat out of the radiator also. I do not have a 408 but I do have a 351 bored .050" over and flat top pistons, cam with AC. Has holley 4-V and MSD ignition. I can drive in any heat in the 90's and stop and go and no heating issues. I did put a Hayden trans. cooler on my automatic. I fabricated brackets that used existing threaded nuts in the radiator support so looks sort of factory.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#5
Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote:I myself prefer the 195 thermostat. That gives the coolant more time in the radiator to actually cool. Also if you have an automatic transmission I would go to a stand alone cooler to take that heat out of the radiator also. I do not have a 408 but I do have a 351 bored .050" over and flat top pistons, cam with AC. Has holley 4-V and MSD ignition. I can drive in any heat in the 90's and stop and go and no heating issues. I did put a Hayden trans. cooler on my automatic. I fabricated brackets that used existing threaded nuts in the radiator support so looks sort of factory.
Good to know. I'm running a TKO 600 so no worries about the auto.
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#6
+1 on Don C's suggestion of 180 Degree T-stat. A little more information on cooling. Chuck
https://www.stewartcomponents.com/index....tion_id=11
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#7
(12-10-2019, 09:12 AM)73\ mach 1 Wrote: I'm trying to get anything else I might need while putting everything back together. As mentioned I'm using a full Holley Sniper kit with their ignition kit. I'm going to be using after market gauges for temp, volts and oil.  I'm running electric fans so where is the best spot to put that sensor. I seemed to have miss placed my T-stat housing lid. I know some people use that as a port for the sensor. What housing lid do you guys suggest? I currently have a 195 stat with the matching fan sensor. Should I be using a 185 for both? Car will be a fun driver for spring, summer and fall so I don't plan to drive much in the winter. I remember reading that the Cleveland likes to run hot but wasn't sure about a 408 configuration? Also I'll be using a CVF serpentine kit with AC delete so all of that will be new along with a new kool flow water pump. So anything else I'm missing? Aything else anyone want to add while everything is out of the car? Thanks


...welded bungs into standard thermostat housing for fan controller and high temp warning light. 192° "top hat" style thermostat. 408 stroker, similar build to yours. No overheating, ever.


[Image: Fan-Warning-light-senders.jpg]

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

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#8
Nice.
Did you have to extend the neck? I have a couple of them, and I don't think there would be enough left after welding the bungs on.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#9
(12-14-2019, 09:17 PM)Don C Wrote: Nice.
Did you have to extend the neck? I have a couple of them, and I don't think there would be enough left after welding the bungs on.


Hey Don, Merry Christmas!  No extension on the neck, just a nice tig weld and a normal worm drive clamp. It's been on there since 2015 with no issues.

[Image: Fan-Warning-light-senders-2.jpg]

[Image: Fan-Warning-light-senders-3.jpg]

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

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#10
Yes, it is that time of the year, can't believe it's here already.
Merry Christmas.
I see you're not using the normal temperature sender location right below the t-stat housing.
Well done on the housing neck, good looking welds.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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