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4 core radiator.....
#1
Will a 4 core radiator fit in the factory fan shroud for a 71 Mach 1?
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#2
I have not been shopping for a radiator for my 71 as of yet but from past experience with my 68 (3 core hi flow, 4 core, electric fans, and everything else that didn't keep it cool) I found a 2 core high performance aluminum radiator did the trick. The radiator had two, one inch rows that flowed very nice and I have never had a cooling problem again so that's what I will be putting in my 71 if I have to have it made
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#3
I installed a Griffin Aluminum recently and a hi flow pump and it cools my car wonderfully, but I had already converted to electric. I can say it would be probably necessitate a different (shorter) fan spacer

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#4
It gets too hot only with AC on. I have an aftermarket crappy open shroud with double core . No insulation either, I think
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#5
The Griffin was a good choice for me. The quality of construction was great. Advance auto Masterpro lower hose 20694 c0694 was a nice fit after trimming 1 1/2 inch or so from each side.

Griffin also offers a universal fit that has the right dimensions for under 200.00

I got a high flow aluminum pump from Jegs for just over a hundred bucks.

I was shocked at how much of a difference it made.

All that being said, I would flush the system check that I had a true cleveland compatible thermostat (don't trust the part monkeys if you don't know what I am talking about PM me) make sure your restrictor plate is in place and refill with 70% water 30 % anti freeze and see if that helps

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
  Reply
#6
Jeff73Mach1;78783 Wrote:cleveland compatible thermostat (don't trust the part monkeys if you don't know what I am talking about PM me) make sure your restrictor plate

Beware the evil bypass restrictor plate. Every Cleveland owner needs to know whether they have one and act accordingly, lest the demons of heat destroy your prized CO2 spewing thermodynamic machine.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#7
71MACH-1;78776 Wrote:Will a 4 core radiator fit in the factory fan shroud for a 71 Mach 1?

Yes. I installed what was called a Desert Special back in the mid-90's with a 351c M-code. Worked almost too well. I needed to run a 195 F thermostat to bring the temp up to optimum operating range. Even with A/C running at idle in 90+ temps, it ran right at 190 temp.

Interestingly enough, it developed a leak a couple years ago so I re-installed the original (re-cored) two row while the 4-row was being repaired. The 2-row cools just as well as the 4-row ever did. Since that time the 4-row sits in storage as a spare.
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#8
Update....

Have restrictor bypass plate

Wrong thermostat ( no hat)

Radiator is clogged up with crap needs to be riddled and cleaned/flushed

Will update when back together.....
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#9
Wolverine;78816 Wrote:
Jeff73Mach1;78783 Wrote:cleveland compatible thermostat (don't trust the part monkeys if you don't know what I am talking about PM me) make sure your restrictor plate

Beware the evil bypass restrictor plate. Every Cleveland owner needs to know whether they have one and act accordingly, lest the demons of heat destroy your prized CO2 spewing thermodynamic machine.

Stupid question, how can I find out? I don't have any overheating issues with my 351C.

[Image: 1_24_09_13_4_29_06.png]
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#10
Go read this page, it gives all the applicable part numbers pictures etc.

http://351cleveland.wetpaint.com/page/pr...thermostat

The Cleveland cooling system is ahead of it's time. Using an internal bypass passage it circulates coolant in a loop thru the block until the thermostat opens which eliminates hot spots. The thermostat seals against a brass restrictor plate (these are sometimes missing and if it isn't there, you can find them on eBay as a last resort for 45 bucks)

Parts monkeys like to sell Windsor thermostats and some companies list the same one for both, but they are not properly interchangeable.

When I got my car with low compression heads and a mild cam it would overheat badly in traffic.

I added high compression heads, Air conditioning, a high lift solid lifter cam and headers. My engine should be producing a lot more heat. I simply changed to the proper thermostat and my car ran much cooler instead.

Recently I upgraded my cooling system as I was never much better than marginal in stop and go traffic, and the extra heat from the Air conditioning was worrying me, even though I had never truly overheated.

I believe the proper thermostat makes a huge difference.Don't overfill the radiator and don't trust a gauge. Use an infrared thermometer and listen to your engine. If it starts pinging or detonating or running on, you have a problem. A little coolant puking is more a sign of being overfilled and should stop after a handful of events.

and Wolverine may have a different yet equally invalid opinion on this subject matter as evidenced by his prior reply. Wink

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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