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4 barrel upgrade
#1
Hello,
I have a 73 convertible with a 351 c 2 barrel carb, dual exhaust c6 auto. Would like to install a 4 barrel intake and carb to improve performance. Have heard this is a very good upgrade. Question, how big a difference is there between a modern aluminum intake and modern carb as opposed to keeping the vehicle historically correct with a period correct cast iron intake and carb ? Thanks for your replies.
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#2
naa10104;192574 Wrote:Hello,
I have a 73 convertible with a 351 c 2 barrel carb, dual exhaust c6 auto. Would like to install a 4 barrel intake and carb to improve performance. Have heard this is a very good upgrade. Question, how big a difference is there between a modern aluminum intake and modern carb as opposed to keeping the vehicle historically correct with a period correct cast iron intake and carb ? Thanks for your replies.

It kinda depends on how you intend to use the car and its current running condition. For a cruiser that will remain mostly stock there is nothing wrong with a good running 2V Cleveland. My dad had one and my brother and I drove the wheels off it in high school. No aftermarket intake will make more low rpm torque than the stock cast iron.

If your 2V carb is in tough shape or you plan on future upgrades then an Edelbrock performer and a 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb is probably the way to go.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#3
+1 on TommyK's post. If you are talking about putting an OEM 4V cast iron intake and a period correct 4300D carb on on it, "forgetta bout it". You can always keep the OEM intake and carb in case you ever want to go back.

Chuck
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#4
You could also just get a good performance 2 barrel and save some time. Holley 500 cfm may be the ticket.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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#5
If you want some seat of the pants performance, might want to consider a 3:56 gear. It makes an awesome difference.
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#6
Edelbrock performer intake manifold with a good carb makes a nice difference.
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#7
The 500 cfm may provide some improvement but, comparing to the 4V flow vacuum standard of 1.5 inches of vacuum vs. the 2V flow standard of 3.0 inches of vacuum, it works out to about 356 cfm on the 4V standard. However neither of the current rating systems are wet flow numbers. And the measurements are taken on one venturi and multiplied by the number of ventures. And what vacuum an individual engine has at WOT is somewhat variable. So who knows what anything really flows on a given engine and car combination. Perhaps that is why Braswell doesn't assign cfm numbers to their carburetors. Chuck
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#8
c9zx;192587 Wrote:+1 on TommyK's post. If you are talking about putting an OEM 4V cast iron intake and a period correct 4300D carb on on it, "forgetta bout it". You can always keep the OEM intake and carb in case you ever want to go back.

Chuck

Hi, thanks for the reply, just curious, why are you against the period correct stuff ? To hard to find or don't perform well ? Please educate me ... thanks
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#9
I went against the grain by going with the Edelbrock RPM air gap intake vs the regular performer intake on my 2V cleveland and I'm glad I did, this thing will get rubber and chirp the tires through 1st and 2nd with light throttle even with the pathetic 2.75 gears and an FMX automatic transmission. If you want to look period correct just paint the manifold "old ford blue", with the factory air cleaner on top I doubt anyone would notice the intake isn't period correct. If your car has ram air please disregard my post due to clearance issuesWink

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#10
naa10104;192807 Wrote:
c9zx;192587 Wrote:+1 on TommyK's post. If you are talking about putting an OEM 4V cast iron intake and a period correct 4300D carb on on it, "forgetta bout it". You can always keep the OEM intake and carb in case you ever want to go back.

Chuck

Hi, thanks for the reply, just curious, why are you against the period correct stuff ? To hard to find or don't perform well ? Please educate me ... thanks

I'm not against period correct stuff at all but, it must work well for me to use it. If you put an OEM 4V iron intake on 2V heads there would be a huge port mis-match between the heads an the intake. You might get it to seal somehow but it would not work well at all. Compare intake gaskets of 2v and 4V. I'm sure there are a few Super stock racers who can make the 4300 series of carbs work well, I just haven't found them or know anyone who has. If you want to use a 70 or 71 OEM 4V iron intake with a square bore, after market carb on 4V heads, that works reasonably well if you enlarge the primary bore size slightly to match the secondary bore size. A open spacer helps things along above 5000 RPM. Let me know what you want to do and I'll help where I can. Chuck
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