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351C Problem with connectiong rods and valves
#1
runninpony 
Hi,

first i am new here and want to say hello to anyone.

I have a 1973 Mustang Mach1 with a 4 Speed Manual Gearbox and i am currently rebuilding my engine.
I am not sure about the engine but the code for the block is (D2AE-CA) with the heads (D4AE) so i think it is a 351 cleveland.

I need new connecting rods for my engine but i dont realy know which one i need. I searched at summitracing for some and only found 2 positions for my engine and year, am i searching right?

And i also need new intake and exhaust valves for my engine. I searched on the net for any measurements for my (D4AE) cylinder heads but could not realy find anything? 

Does anyone already rebuilded an 351 Cleveland and can help me a little bit with this problem?

Thank you for your time.
Daniel
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#2
Google 351 cleveland building tips by Dan Jones. A good article for starters
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#3
If you search eBay Motors for "Ferrea 351C" you will find several complete sets of valves made for 2V or 4V engines and different levels of quality. Their 5000, 6000, and Competition series valves. Only you know what you have and what you are building to select the valves best suited for your engine build.

What type of connecting rods are you after? Originals or aftermarket H-beam or I-beam? Press fit or free floating piston pins?

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
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#4
Ok thanks.

I just rebuild my engine for E-Street use. A little bit larger carburator and an electric ignition for better usage and maybe a e-street edelbrock cam (#2172) so i think i am fine with original connecting rods.
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#5
reading the code info forum your engine is a 72 and heads are 74.
http://mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html
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#6
It is a 351 Cleveland "Q" code and likely came in a 1974 Torino. It is a 4-bolt block. The 4V cylinder head is open chamber and probably has the smaller valves (2.04 & 1.65). I couldn't find the exact specs for that head, either.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#7
You can't go wrong with the Ferrea valves. Other less expensive single groove valves and locks may meet your needs. It all depends on how you intend to use the engine. Do not use any multi-groove valves. The rods themselves are not an inherently weak leak. It was the rod bolt nuts that were failing. ARP makes good rod bolts and nuts. However, other companies make quality, less expensive bolts and nuts that may meet your needs. Again, it depends on how you intend to use the engine as to "how much" rod you need. What ever you use for a rod make sure they are checked for straightness, roundness, and burnish the bolts and nuts before final assembly as well as using a consistent torque/stretch bolt lubricant (CMD #3). I may sound a bit OCD here but, I recently learned, the hard and expensive way, about using the wrong after market rods. Above all else, find the right racing engine shop to do the machine work. Parts don't matter if the machine work is sub-par. Chuck
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#8
If a set of Factory connecting rods are what you're looking for, I know Valley Head Service in Los Angeles usually keeps many sets of cores just for people who want Factory pieces. Talk to Larry Ofria, 818-993-7000
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#9
Hey Daniel,

Did you get the information you are looking for?

You will find the guys here very knowledgeable, and most often correct.  The Dan Jones link is very good.

Do you have to worry about smog control, or keeping your engine stock in Austria?

Do you have your motor apart?  Also, post a few pictures, either here or the introduction section.

What type of experience do you have rebuilding motors?

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#10
runninpony 
And besides all that great info...Welcome from Omaha!
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