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351C Carburetor Coughing
The intake swap and 4 bbl carb will give you some additional seat of the pants feel over the 2bbl carb for sure. I still think you have a timing issue though. Could be slack in the timing chain.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason

[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
Thank you so much. Unfortunately though, I'm just now getting back to school so it won't be until May 9th that I can get under the hood and change anything, but if anyone has any suggestions or ideas I would love to hear them and relay them to my dad so he can see what he can do about it. I'm starting to think a carb rebuild is going to be our first step then we'll continue from there.
Even though your accelerator nozzles are squirting they may not be squirting a large enough volume. You either need to build or replace the carburetor and do a complete tune up.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
It should be an Autolite 2100 2V carb. The original carb tag may or may not still be there to identify the carb. +1 on Don C's post. Chuck
Thank y'all so much. We would still be stuck wondering what we should try to change otherwise.
patrickob17, very good advice given so far. In the interest of not throwing a lot  of money at a problem that may not need it, I would do as others have suggested and give a serious look at your carburetor. Easiest thing to do before tearing into an engine. There are plenty of seals, gaskets, and rubber components than can deteriorate with age, especially when they dry out after being wet with fuel.
As Chuck posted, the favorite pastime of a lot of mechanics was to pitch any identification tags found on engines, distributors, carburetors, etc. If the tag is missing off your carburetor and it is original to your car, you can look on the left front of the mounting flange or base plate and you should be able to read a stamping. This number should be the same as the metal ID tag. If the tag is missing and you can't read the stamping in the base plate, just go to your favorite parts house and tell them to cross a Ford rebuild kit (D4AZ-9A586-A or Motorcraft CT-499-D). By the late 70's and into the 80's, that kit replaced the majority of the 2bl kits used until EFI was just about on all Ford engines.

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No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
The picture that Steve posted (thanks Steve) shows the lever and rod that actuate the accelerator pump. Make sure the rod is in the next to top or top hole on the lever, that will supply the biggest shot of fuel. And if there are two holes on the lever on the other end, make sure the rod is in the inboard hole.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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