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351C 4V / C6 auto trans removal advice needed
#21
(02-20-2019, 05:51 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: You can pull the front wheels off and sit on drums or put something under the disc or spindle. If you have disc brakes be careful with the dust shields they stick down farther.
I worked on my old 69 ford van in old garage had to put 4 bare wheels on it to get through the door.

I was also thinking of removing the front suspension, sway bar and hubs completely and putting some lowered axle stands to give more height and reach to the fenders for engine lift....
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#22
If you try to lift the engine over the side, it will be impossible to pull the transmission and engine as a unit as you will be pulling perpendicular to the transmissions position and there is not room to turn the unit. It will also be hard to lift high enough. Pull from the front. Your idea is not going to work without major headaches

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#23
I removed the front tires and put the front on blocks to get it as low as possible and then raised the read up in the air to angle it even further. +1 on pulling from front and not side.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#24
ok folks. Decision has been made. I will take out the engine first, and then transmission. I can rejoin them and install later when everything painted. Question - to separate engine from transmission is it just undoing the bolts on the housing ? anything else i should be aware of ? thanks again for the advice. I'm listening.
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#25
Starter bolts and torque converter nuts. You will have to rotate the engine and take one nut off at a time through the access hole at bottom front of trans. There are 4 nuts holding it on. Torque converter should stay in the trans or you will have a huge mess of fluid.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#26
Before loose the engine bolts, you have to remove the inspection plate of the trans underneath, then remove the nuts on the flywheel holding the converter.
The start motor and its bolts, the engine ground(s) straps and I would disconnect the trans cool lines if they have been distorted/could be in the way of the motor mounts when you'd lift. I would also bellow inspection plate, support the trans casing. just enough so it doesn't try to point down and add weight while you try pull/separate the engine.

As you are limited in height, I would do this in two steps. Using first bits longer arm/chains, to allow more play during the separation/engine mount "axle" removal, then once you have freed a tad of space between trans and engine, low the engine again and change for the shortest arm/chains length.

Good luck!

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#27
(Today, 07:05 AM)turtle5353 Wrote: Starter bolts and torque converter nuts.  You will have to rotate the engine and take one nut off at a time through the access hole at bottom front of trans.  There are 4 nuts holding it on. Torque converter should stay in the trans or you will have a huge mess of fluid.

ok, i couldn't picture this so looked up and found a vid on youtube showing the access point at front of trans. I have already removed the starter so will go down this route... thanks !
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#28
(Today, 07:12 AM)Fabrice Wrote: Before loose the engine bolts, you have to remove the inspection plate of the trans underneath, then remove the nuts on the flywheel holding the converter.
The start motor and its bolts, the engine ground(s) straps and I would disconnect the trans cool lines if they have been distorted/could be in the way of the motor mounts when you'd lift. I would also  bellow inspection plate, support the trans casing. just enough so it doesn't try to point down and add weight while you try pull/separate the engine.

As you are limited in height, I would do this in two steps. Using first bits longer arm/chains, to allow more play during the separation/engine mount "axle" removal, then once you have freed a tad of space between trans and engine, low the engine again and change for the shortest arm/chains length.

Good luck!

thanks, some good pointers there. will take note of them all.
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