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351C 4V / C6 auto trans removal advice needed
#11
1 ton hoist is sufficient. I've pulled and installed completely dressed and assembled 351Cs plenty of times with one.

Given your limited overhead space, I'd unbolt the engine from the trans, leave the tranny in place and pull the engine. You can remove the trans afterwards.


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#12
I took some pics this morning as i waited for some parts to arrive (they didnt). Our garages on this side of the pond are not as luxuriant as yours, but mine's pretty ok by our standards.
As you will see, engine disassembly is in progress. One side of under wheel arch is primed and the other to finish.
Plan is
1) engine and trans out
2) clean and paint under wheel arches
3) refurbish engine and trans (both were running ok so not doing rebuild)
4) replace all pipes/lines
5) refit engine and trans, fenders, hood ancillaries and fire her up !


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#13
more pics...,. anything noticed ? anything not look right ? does sway bar look after market ? PO would have painted it if it didnt come in blue..

also should i mount grade 8 bolts on the plate on top of the aluminium plate you see in pic which i presume was a base for the carburettor ? or remove it ?

any other advice more than welcome !


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#14
oh, i forgot to mention, there's my bright shiny new 1 ton engine lift !
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#15
So if you extend your lift boom out as far as it goes then you are down to 250 kg. Not sure of total weight of 351 but pushing limits.
The aluminum plate on the intake is an adapter to make the butterflies clear the stock manifold. Must be using a different carburetor.
When lifting the engine most people use the four outer corners of the intake manifold. You would need to get 4 bolts longer to use when lifting. I think they are 5/16"-18 but check for sure.
Looks like you are getting things done. Heck I use to have to work in a dirt floor garage. To keep things cleaner I use to go to furniture store and get the huge cardboard boxes and put down to cover the gravel and dirt.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#16
(02-12-2019, 04:56 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: So if you extend your lift boom out as far as it goes then you are down to 250 kg. Not sure of total weight of 351 but pushing limits.
The aluminum plate on the intake is an adapter to make the butterflies clear the stock manifold. Must be using a different carburetor.
When lifting the engine most people use the four outer corners of the intake manifold. You would need to get 4 bolts longer to use when lifting. I think they are 5/16"-18 but check for sure.
Looks like you are getting things done. Heck I use to have to work in a dirt floor garage. To keep things cleaner I use to go to furniture store and get the huge cardboard boxes and put down to cover the gravel and dirt.

thanks for the advice on the bolts for the plate. I've been trying to source grade 8 bolts and learning loads, when i google it here (in UK) the images and link come up with 8.8 markings on the bolts but apparently that is not an indication that it is a high tensile grade 8, should have 6 line marks on the bolt. I am trying to see if i can reuse any bolts off the engine that are grade 8, if not i will need to make some calls this week. Will also check the bolt sizes.


On the carburettor, correct, an eidelbrock carb was fitted to replace the stock factory one by PO. I'm going to likely replace that at some point as well....

As I plan to lift engine from the side i should be able to minimise extension of the lift boom to the 750kg point..... We'll see if it can be done....
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#17
I know there are different opinions but removing in two steps is also relatively easy but with a lot less weight and angle to worry about. The transmission then can be easily slid under the car through the front

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#18
You may want to add up the heights of everything that you'll be picking up with the engine crane- it looks like you may be real close on being able to get the engine high enough to clear the inner fender before your crane hits the door. Maybe you could close the garage door or lower the car.

Just thinking out loud as it would be my luck that I would get the engine part of the way out and then realize that it won't clear things or the crane stroke is too short or something like that...
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#19
You can pull the front wheels off and sit on drums or put something under the disc or spindle. If you have disc brakes be careful with the dust shields they stick down farther.
I worked on my old 69 ford van in old garage had to put 4 bare wheels on it to get through the door.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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