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351 engine tear down
#21
I have been out of the rebuilding so long I cannot suggest a brand. Some of the guys that are in it now can give better info. There is so many parts being made off shore to the U.S. you never know what you are going to get.
Your machine shop will need to tell you what under size you will need to grind the crank. It will probably be .010 inch under size but they need to tell you. They should put the main bearings in the block and rods torque them down and measure installed same with the rods. Everything has tolerance in manufacturing so they might be off a .0005". It is not a requirement but it insures there will be no tight or loose bearings.
I could have gotten two 351 engines the other day but both were 2 bolt mains and I already have a couple of them for spares. I did take a great set of closed chamber heads off one of them.
How is everything else going have not seen many posts lately. It has got cold here finally so I have been polishing stainless and putting things on eBay.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#22
I don't spend to much time in the garage those days, busy to try to find a new job, plus the temperature went down, I hate to work in the cold, even if I used to work by -20 celsius in east Europe.

So the shop might, after grinding and tight everything up, using plastigage I guess.
I found a shop close to my place, I'll bring the crankshaft and the heads as well, some valve guides has too much play, I want to replace them by some copper one, and I want that they install some hard seat to the exaust valves.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#23
Manu Mach1;252041 Wrote:I don't spend to much time in the garage those days, busy to try to find a new job, plus the temperature went down, I hate to work in the cold, even if I used to work by -20 celsius in east Europe.

So the shop might, after grinding and tight everything up, using plastigage I guess.
I found a shop close to my place, I'll bring the crankshaft and the heads as well, some valve guides has too much play, I want to replace them by some copper one, and I want that they install some hard seat to the exaust valves.
The plastigage only tells you the gap that does not insure it is correct. If they measure the bearings in place they can grind the crank to fit with proper clearance and no need for plastigage.
Good luck on the job search and stay warm.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#24
Clevite and Sealed Power bearings seem to be maintaining their reputations, so if need new bearings I would go with one of them.

Your distributor gear probably is new. The old one may be what messed up your cam, or got destroyed when your cam was damaged.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#25
So first the machinist need to measure the crankshaft, rod and main (it's now standard size), then grind it. As you said above David, I should need to find 0,010 inch under (rod and main).

Ok Don C, should be what happend to the camshaft. But what I can tell you is that I spent a while to remove the the distributor from the block, it was like "welded", corrosion plus all the dirt.
Need also camshaft bearings. What cam should I take?

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#26
Your cam with the "BV" marking is actually the D2ZZ-6250-B CJ cam. The timing for these cams were retarded 4 degrees, but you can use a multi indexed crank gear to advance the cam. The Clevite bearings suggested by Don C are my bearings of choice. Ford thought enough of Clevite 77 bearings to use them in the Boss 351 and 351 CJ engines through 1974 when 351C production ended in the US. Looks like you are on the way to a good build. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. A lot of people here have been through many 351 rebuilds and have a lot of knowledge to share. Good luck!

Steve

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
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#27
Questions? I have questions, enough to block the flow of the Mississipi Smile
I have lot of parts to make a good rebuilt engine, and don't have the choice to order the wrong ones.

I have already the Cloyes timing set multi indexed.
I need push rods, hydraulic lifters, camshaft, rod and main bearings, pistons and rings, I have FEL-PRO FS8347PT engine kit, need valley pan.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#28
Manu Mach1;252048 Wrote:Questions? I have questions, enough to block the flow of the Mississipi Smile
I have lot of parts to make a good rebuilt engine, and don't have the choice to order the wrong ones.

I have already the Cloyes timing set multi indexed.
I need push rods, hydraulic lifters, camshaft, rod and main bearings, pistons and rings, I have FEL-PRO FS8347PT engine kit, need valley pan.

well if you tell us what you want, we will suggest, we exactly what parts we think will best suit your needs.

for instance, for a near stock rebuild, you do not need $500.00 forged pistons or moly pistons rings etc.

either speed pro piston in the link below are fine.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-...-cleveland

these rings in the size you need are fine.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-e-.../overview/

.
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#29
A near stock rebuilt is what I want, no need performance parts as to me there are enough power as original. Just the fact to play with the timing set and set to 0° instead of the 4° retarded will give a little bit of more power.
Anyway, I want a reliable car, street driveable, could be my daily driver.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#30
As for your Pistons, a set of cast will be fine for your application, but if you want to spend a bit more a set of hypers are even better, as Barnett said no need for forged Pistons, as they'd be overkill for your engine. As for pushrods, if you're not using guide plates which you aren't, just a standard type from mellings or sealed power are fine. As for cam and lifters, it comes down to personal preference, but it's the old adage, ask 10 different people which cam you should use and get 10 different answers. Depends on what you want to spend also, do you want to shell out extra for a Crane or Comp or similar or just one of stage 1 or 2 grinds from Elgin or Sealed Power etc (nothing wrong with them) You will also want to check your rockers and fulcrums to see if they can be reused, as well as your valves, but valve guides, springs, retainers and collets should be replaced. Oil pump, pick up and drive from Mellings will be fine. Also a set of freeze and gallery plugs will be needed. Firstly you will need your machinist to measure everything so they can tell you what sizes you're going to need before you order anything, realistically you should even have the crank ground before ordering bearings, as I've personally measured cranks thinking they will grind to a certain size, only to get an mark in them ground at that size, then having to grind it down to the next size (sucks even more when it's on the last journal) That way you can order exactly the parts you want at the sizes you need. Also search around a bit more as there are sellers out there with complete rebuild kits with everything you need and usually works out cheaper than buying parts one by one.
Good luck with it all and remember there are many people on here only too willing to help. Keep us all informed.
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