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351 engine tear down
#31
Thank you very much to all of you, I need help and is what I find here Smile
So first machinist shop, then I will come back with all sizes to be able to order all parts.
Will come back soon.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#32
I come back from the shop. There they can't grind the crankshaft (it will be done somewhere else). But they can take care of the heads. At the same time I will show them the block to measure the cylinder bore and the "cylindricity" <---- might not be very english...
So, I need to order exaust valves, valves guides (bronze I guess?), springs, I have already a set of rocker arm (COMP Cams 1232).
I will appreciate if you can give me some references.
Thanks.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#33
are you building a performance engine?

will you drive it every day?

you do not need bronze guides, cast iron ones are fine.

check cylinders for "eccentricity" and taper

your english is just fine.
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#34
Ok so before ordering valves, is your 4V a 73 model because if so it more than likely has the 2V valves installed, so you'll need to find this out first. Also here is a link to Alex parts who have parts you're after. A few guys over here use this stuff in mild engines with no dramas, so for yours being basically standard would be no problem at all. If your engine has the 2V valves then a full set of their valves is what will be needed, the better thing about them is they're stainless plus they're single groove. If you have 4V valves (shouldn't if it's a 73) they are out of stock on them at this time. As you'll see they have everything you need for your top end, valves, springs with collets and retainers in a set, valve guides, pushrods and cylinder head dowels. Unfortunately they have no part numbers, so I ticked what I think will suit your needs, just don't know if they'll show up on posted link. Maybe just message them with the parts you need and they should be able to help you out, if your heads do have 4V valves ask them when they'll be in stock. You seem to be going in the right direction with everything and doing it all properly, so all the best and keep us posted.
http://www.alexsparts.com/categories/FOR...CLEVELAND/
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#35
.
all 351 cleveland closed chamber heads have 2.19 and 1.71 valves
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#36
I want to rebuilt this engine not for performance, just as close as it came.
The machinist will check all cylinders.

I sent a mail to Alex's parts cause it will be an international order, that's the procedure.
My valves are same as 2V's (4V open chambers). Is it better single grooves valves than multi grooves I originally have? If so, why?
Also, about the valve springs, there is another spring inside, the new ones will be different? (I mean not double spring).

The machinist will make himself the hard exaust seats.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#37
Manu Mach1;252191 Wrote:I want to rebuilt this engine not for performance, just as close as it came.
The machinist will check all cylinders.

I sent a mail to Alex's parts cause it will be an international order, that's the procedure.
My valves are same as 2V's (4V open chambers). Is it better single grooves valves than multi grooves I originally have? If so, why?
Also, about the valve springs, there is another spring inside, the new ones will be different? (I mean not double spring).

The machinist will make himself the hard exaust seats.
As I said earlier, with your build being basically standard a set of cast Pistons will be fine for your engine, but for a few dollars more a set of hypers are even better. Go with a set of flat tops also, that way you'll get a bit more compression, which will be better for performance and economy. You won't have to worry about the compression being too high either, even with flat tops and a bit milled off the block decks and the heads.
I thought your engine was a 73, that's why I wanted to make sure it had 2V valves fitted (which it does) so going to a stainless single groove valve set up is a good upgrade, especially at the prices for these parts. Also I've never seen a multi groove valve made in stainless, not that you really need them, but for the price you can't go pass them. The difference between the two collet types is, a multi groove valve the collets don't actually clamp to the valve itself, so the valve will "turn" The theory behind it is for the valve turns when running so heat and wear is more evenly distributed. If you grab a couple of collets and a valve, put the collets into the grooves and you'll be able to spin the valve in them. As for single groove collets they're positive clamping type, which means they actually clamp to the valve itself.
The springs you need for your application should only be a single spring with a wound dampner. The dampner is not actually a spring itself, it's a flat piece of steel that does what the name says, dampen the load of the spring under compression, but a lot of people think that they are dual springs. If I had a dollar for everyone whose said they have dual or even triple (dual springs with a dampner) valve springs, I'd be richer for it, lol.
Your definitely heading in the right direction with your build, so keep with it and if unsure of something, keep asking questions as people on here are only too happy to help you through this and offer their advise.
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#38
Manu Mach1;252191 Wrote:My valves are same as 2V's (4V open chambers).

I thought you said you have closed chamber heads . . I must have been thinking of a different thread.

Manu Mach1;252033 Wrote:Hi everyone,

Any idea of what rod bearings should I choose to replace those ones? (standard).
Thank you.

ok, i use H series crank and rod bearings . . the H crank bearings will provide way more oil to your rod bearings and crank.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-ms.../make/ford

in your case, i would not use H series rod bearings because they are narrower than the standard bearings.

if you can feel any marks/grooves on your crank, you must regrind it . . if it is good, you can have it polished . . if it ends up slightly smaller than stock, you ca buy bearings that are .005" thinner so they will fit a journal that is .001" smaller than stock.


CAMS

For a cam similar to stock, the first 2 on page 7 will be close . . the second cam will have a slightly higher operating range.

http://cranecams.com.au/pdfs/blueracer_g...9-9-10.pdf

.
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#39
Very good, I start to see better (and today the sun is shining, maybe a sign).
First about the cam, from the PDF link, I should choose the third one page 7, it gives the same as the factory one.

About that I found something, can help other people:
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/t...4181021846

So can be a cam from Melling (SYB 29), Clevite, Sealed Power (CS650), Lunati (11104), or even Elgin as mentionned above, with the Elgin HL 1900.

I was thinking were double springs, I read somewhere triple springs for racing, but this is another story.

Now waiting for Alex 'x parts for the quotation.

Merci mes amis.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#40
I know your walking into a mud hole when you talk about camshafts. Cam recommendations, ideas, favorites, etc are like rear ends, everybody's got one! The Ford engineers did a good job on the 351 CJ's. They had to deal with ever tightening emissions laws, drivability on the street, and to perform strongly yet be "tame" enough to carry a factory warranty.
The 351 CJ actually used a 428 valve spring and if you check the cam specs you'll see the 351 CJ cam had the same profile as the 428 CJ cam. And if you have ever owned, driven, raced, rode in, or raced against a 428 CJ, you know they were BAD A$$!! Since one of your requirements was to remain stock, the third cam listed in barnnett468's Crane Blue Racer post looks to be a direct replacement for your 351 CJ.
I was told years ago by one of our shop techs, that the triple groove valves were designed mainly for valve rotation for even wear and valve cooling. Technology has improved so much over the years that as long as you get a name brand stainless steel valve, you should do well. Once again the sides are divided on singe groove VS triple groove. (I run single groove in my "M" codes by the way)!
Good luck on your project!

Steve

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
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