• 1 Vote(s) - 5 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
351 engine tear down
It's very difficult to find a good machine shop these days.. The machinists just don't have the background needed to do quality work anymore due to our throw-away society.. If an engine goes bad now, it just gets replaced..
Some very interesting information here. I too am in that process of rebuilding my '71 351C4V. I would be interested to learn what the casting and date code your 4 bolt block is.
To be honest I wouldn't even worry about trying to save those Pistons, as just about every Cleveland I've ever done, the top ring land has had excessive wear, plus the bores are usually shot, especially in engines with poor maintainance. You could possibly machine the ring land and put in a spacer, but by the time you do that, it would be just as expensive as buying a set of new Pistons. The only way to know for sure is to measure everything as has been previously said. Until the measuring on everything has been done, then you'll know exactly where you stand. As for a machine shop over there, I'd try to find someone who has experience on US V8 engines and has a very good reputation in doing them, if you can't find anyone like that, then somebody with experience older type engines, again with a good reputation. Good machining is as important as using good parts and if the machining isn't up to scratch, then it won't matter what parts you use as the chance for failure will be high anyway. Depending on what you want out of the engine will determine what you need to do with it, as is how much you want to spend. As the saying goes, good engines ain't cheap and cheap engines ain't good. Assembling the engine yourself will save you a few dollars also and its not that difficult to do, plus if you get stuck or uncertain of something, there are plenty of knowledgable people on here to help you out. So find a really good machine shop and get everything measured up firstly, get prices of the work they're going to do ie: bore and hone, hot tank parts, R & R cam bearings and so on, price up the parts you'll be needing, then you'll know which way you'll want to go and what your budget allows for. All the best with it and keep us all informed.
I found one shop about 3 hours drive from home, I will him the block, crankshaft, cam shaft, heads and pistons, I need to go there with all specifications to first measure what can be possoble to do, then I will let him put in place the crankshaft with the new bearings, more safe.
Exactly what you said 4Vforever, step by step and organisation.

The block is a D2AE-CA and heads are D3ZE AA. On the crankshaft, I found some information as it should be stamped 4M but I found nothing.
One of the push rods is well damaged, like it was touching the head up and down and it's bended, like a few others.


Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
The valve train takes a beating. When a car sits the springs under compression loose some of their pressure. You probably had a valve that was sticking that bent the pushrod. If it were me I would replace everything in the engine but the crank, rods, block and heads. As you are grinding the crank have them check the rods and resize if needed and get all new valve train components. Also remember the valve seat hard inserts.
The casting number on the block is the same for 2 bolt and 4 bolt blocks since all they had to do was drill the extra hole for the 4 bolt. You cannot identify a 4 bolt block without pulling the pan unless someone out there knows another marking.
If you have a 4 bolt block and it is bad and cannot be saved always save the main caps they can be installed on a 2 bolt block with some machining and align bore.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Sure the shop will install hard valve seats on the exaust, then don't need anymore additive in the gas.
Hope the block is not dead, if so I can't continue the process as it's not possible to me to order one from the US.
David please tell me something positive Smile

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
The book "How To Rebuild Ford V8 Engines" is on his way, I'm sure is a very good helper for me.

The camshaft:
According to "Mustangtek", looks like the camshaft is PN D1ZZ-6250-A, but not easy to read. If so, is it still 4° retarded?

Is it damaged?

About the crankshaft, I canno't identify it:

I found this interesting thread.

Attached Files Thumbnail(s)

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
yes, the cam gear is damaged so it is trash

the crank is lightly scored so it needs to be reground.

the push rods are junk because they are rusty . they wee rubbing on the guide place or the cylinder head . . not good.
How it's possible to destroy the camshaft like that? The sprocket on the distributor is like new.
What camshaft should I use? I would like to stay as stock as possible.

Is Sealed Power CS650 a good choice for a stock cam replacement?

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
Hi everyone,

Any idea of what rod bearings should I choose to replace those ones? (standard).

Thank you.


Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
Share Thread:  

Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Ideas Where To Buy Engine Block? icejawa 92 3,943 4 hours ago
Last Post: Hemikiller
  Strange hole in Engine block raeovine 5 179 05-20-2020, 07:04 PM
Last Post: Stanglover
  Engine running crummy jpaz 64 2,438 05-15-2020, 04:48 PM
Last Post: Stanglover
  Engine blues again! OzCoupe72 2 184 04-25-2020, 07:08 PM
Last Post: OzCoupe72
  What might have been done to my engine in the past? mustangandy 2 240 04-22-2020, 10:52 PM
Last Post: Canted 393

Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)