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351 engine tear down
#1
Experimentation I would say as I never been so far in a restoration.
A lot of crap wason the heads, and under the pan valley, surely caused by a very poor maintenance. When I opened the engine last evening, the smell remind me some location with H2S, but no I was not on a job.
I have a few push rods bented.

Any suggestions are welcome, I need to refer to books and documentation I have to continue the job, and of course the help of this site thumb

   
   
   
   

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#2
Manu Mach1,

IMO, one of the best books on rebuilding your 351C. I used this book when I rebuilt mine some years ago.

How To Rebuild Ford V8 Engines: 351C, 351M, 400, 429, 460 Cubic-Inch V-8s

By Tom Monroe

How to rebuild Ford V8 motors: 351C, 351M, 400, 429 or 460 c.i. ISBN-10: 0895860368 | ISBN-13: 9780895860361 |
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/9780895860361.html

mustang7173
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#3
Yeah, the valley looks like some sludge build up but the bottom end doesn't look too bad. And 4 bolt mains! Very nice!

What kind of advice are you looking for? What kind of rebuild do you plan? Are you going to bore it out and replace the pistons?

Keep track of things like where each main cap came off of and which direction it is in.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#4
I have a book from George Reid, the Chilton, the one from Haynes but not this one.

Yes a four bolt main, I was happy to discover that last night.
So about the rebuild, I don't know yet what I'll do, but if the bore is in good condition, I will leave as it is, simply change the piston rings.
But in case I change them, I guess I should choose some dome pistons to get more compression.
I need to see how are the rod bearings, cap bearings, lifters.......
Well, I probably need to change a lot a parts, so if I can leave it with the original bore, for economic reason, I will. I don't need a race car, radars everywhere around here Sad and I will gain extra power only to change the timing set.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#5
You will need to take a lot of measurements to determine what you need to do. Measuring the cylinder walls for size, roundness, and taper, along with the condition of the walls and the ridge at the top of the cylinders, will tell you if you need to have it bored.

Because of the sludge I'm guessing the ring lands are worn and you'll need the replace the pistons.

Replace all of the bearings. You will need to take numerous measurements on the crankshaft to determine if it needs to be ground or is reusable. Check the clearances in the lifter bores and valve guides.

Take the block and heads to a machine shop and have them boiled out. If you don't need to have the cylinders bored I would have them remove the ridge and hone the cylinders. Also have them check them for trueness and have them surfaced if needed. If you don't have hardened valve seats have them installed. Have valve guides and lifter bushings installed, if needed.

This is just some general and brief guidelines, the books mentioned above will fill in all of the details.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#6
All pistons are out. They all look the same, rings are not stucked or broken.
Bearings are copper color, means need to be changed.
Tomorrow I'll remove the main bearings.
   
   
   
   
   

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#7
I know it is too late now but others will learn. If you thought you were going to reuse the pistons you should have used a "ridge reamer" to cut the ridge off the top of the cylinders. The sharp edge on the top compression ring and others catches on the edge in the block and you car crack the piston. The front two cylinders usually have the most wear because of the difference in the water temp keeping those cylinders tighter. A Cleveland has a different cooling system and I have never rebuilt one but 302, 240, 429 and older engine I have worked on always did.
The sludge was not bad at all for an engine with this age. Sludge is usually a sign of short runs on the engine not getting the moisture inside the block dried out and it mixes with the oil and makes sludge.
A paraffin base oil is also more prone to build up sludge.
I myself would never tear down any engine without a full rebuild. Find a machine shop that knows what they are doing that will resize your rods check for twist and install the new pistons correctly. The way the cylinders are honed makes a big difference in how the rings seat on the run in. The hard valve seats are a must with todays gas. I like for a machine shop to install the bearings and torque the caps and measure the bearings in place. Then they subtract the correct oil clearance and grind the crank to fit the bearings not just a theoretically correct nominal dimension. Everything has tolerance bores in the rod ends the bearing shells etc.
Like others have said a good book will guide you through. If the water jacket has lots of rust from someone running straight water I would go to a molasses tank to clean the rust out of the jacket. This would be after the hot tank at the machine shop to remove the sludge. Make sure the shop pulls all plugs and caps off the oil & water galleys. Get one of the spiral brush kits to clean out those passages and wash everything yourself with hot soapy water and blow dry and spray with WD-40 and wrap in plastic bags before you assemble. Wash all your wrenches, sockets, ratchet, torque wrench anything you are going to use to assemble the engine. A good solid engine stand is a must a Cleveland is a heavy engine and you will be turning it in all positions while putting together. Keep everything covered with plastic bags when you can. Race shops actually have a clean room they do the engine assembly in. Work in a clean draft free area. Lube all the components as the manufacturer suggests. DO NOT put Molly coat on any of the fasteners or anything other than what is recommended by the manufacturer. You can over tighten bolts even with a torque wrench if there is a slippery lube on the threads. I would switch to a set of ARP fasteners. Run a tap into all holes that are tapped and blow out with compressed air before sending to the shop to clean. Some of the fasteners can be tightened to a stretch instead of torque which is more accurate way.
Your book will show you how to orient the rings for proper seal. When you get the engine in and ready to start have your timing light ready and set timing and then immediately do your run in according to the cam manufacturer. Usually around 2,000 rpm for a give time. The rings seat with the first heat cycle of the block and gradually wear after that. Make sure the oil pan rail is flat before installing a little hammer and dolly work will keep away leaks. Rear main seal if very important.
Back in the days of the Model T Henry Ford built the engines and since bearings were poured and worked to size he would hook the engines up to an outside drive and rotate the engine to wear everything in. Today we measure and machine everything in so the cam face, lifters and rings are really the only items that seat everything else is either right or wrong. Your head gasket and intake gasket manufacturer might suggest a re-torque after a heat cycle also. Don't go putting a high lift cam and triple valve springs in to impress your buddies with the sound unless you want to do it all over in just a few miles on the road. Performance comes with a cost that is up to you what you are willing to do over time. Racing parts does not mean long lasting parts.
Do you have another of those 4 bolt blocks laying around I could use one. You can drill and machine any of them and add the other two bolts but lots of work.
Good luck and keep the pictures going it lets other know they can do the same as you and not have to pay someone else. You will smile very time you fire it up.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#8
unfortunately, there is no possible way would leave the bore and orig pistons
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#9
That's a lot of information you give me. Thank you.
Learning by doing, I know that, and I do mistakes, this will help others. Anyway, the engine is almost totally naked, the distributor is "welded" in it's place, now WD40 is working I hope, I don't want to destroy it using a big hammer. Then the camshaft will come and probably will be in bad condition.
Most of the job will be done by myself, I need to find a serious machinery shop for the crankshaft.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#10
My experience from building an 351c overseas (England) was I could not get it bored and honed using torque plates, and balancing was so expensive it was cost prohibitive at the time. They wanted something to the tune of $650(exchange rate was almost $1.80 to the pound at the time) if my memory serves me correctly and I just couldn't afford it. This was back in 1999. I was also disappointed with the way they cleaned the block. I wanted it hot-tanked and super cleaned but they more or less just ran it through a solvent tank. It came back looking rusty and with flaking paint almost just as I gave it to them save for the machined surfaces.

All the rest of the machining tasks are pretty standard for a well equipped shop.

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
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