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351 Cleveland Heads Reinstallation
#1
Hi Everyone,

I'm reinstalling my 351 Cleveland 2 valve heads that i just got back from the welding shop. They had a hairline crack in both, one head is a donor that the shop had to replace because when they were welding one of the heads the crack kept getting deeper each time they tried fixing it. 

I know i need to replace the head gaskets. What are some other things that should be replaced while the heads are off as well? For example, should the head bolts or push rods be replaced since they've been sitting out for a while? Or are those usually fine to put back in. 


Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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#2
The head bolts and push rods should be fine just look at the push rods for wear. Did you keep them sorted for position they came from?
You should run a tap into all the threaded holes in the block for head bolts and also into the head for the valve covers and exhaust along with holes in the front for PS and alternator and air mount if you have them. Blow out with compressed air. You can vacuum and stuff out of lifter valley.
Do not put assembly lube on the threads just a little motor oil is all you need. Also put anti seize compound on the exhaust manifold or header bolts to keep them from sticking. Same for the thermostat housing.
With the heads out of the way you can get to the Core Plugs some call Freeze Plugs but nothing to do with freezing, in the block. They tend to rust out over time and very difficult to change with the engine in the car. With heads and exhaust off much easier.
DOUBLE CHECK THAT HEAD GASKETS ARE TURNED THE CORRECT WAY. WILL BE MARKED FRONT. This is one of the most common errors made. Pics show them on correctly the square hole at the top of gasket goes in front and gasket will be marked FRONT.
Also check to see that your baffle is still in the block as shown in the picture and install the correct thermostat made for Cleveland.
Clean the gasket surfaces on heads and block with parts cleaner and follow your gasket mfg. requirements for install. Most do not require a re torque anymore.
I put RTV on the valve cover gasket only on the side toward the cover. That way can remove them without damage and reinstall.
A helper is great when putting the intake back on to prevent slipping and damage to the gasket.
When they welded the heads did they preheat them and then hammer the welds and reheat them to stress relieve? Welding castings is tricky but fine if done my a good welding shop.
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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
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David
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#3
(09-02-2018, 08:35 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: You should run a tap into all the threaded holes in the block for head bolts and also into the head for the valve covers and exhaust along with holes in the front for PS and alternator and air mount if you have them.


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Best advice ever....makes for accurate torquing goodpost

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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