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351 cleveland 4v
#1
Hey everyone I am in need of major help here I have searched everything trying to find answers to my questions and I came by this site I have a 351 cleveland I am building , when I got the engine it was bare had nothing on it except old intake which I took off and rebuild the whole engine just like this been bored to 30 over new pistons new cam with 239 duration and a 540 lift heads ported polished all new valves aand springs matching everything up but I am haveing problems finding everything for my torker 2 intake I have no idea what all screws into the intake and where all my vaccum lines go I have tried to find people that uses this intake to see what valves I need and where every line goes to but no luck so if anyone has a torker 2 on there cleveland or any ideas help is needed thanks Matt
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#2
I've used a Torker II on a 351W, but not on a 351C. I'm pretty certain that the majority of your vacuum lines are going to be attached to your carb, not the intake manifold. Have you read Edelbrock's instructions for your manifold? http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/...0/2760.pdf

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged
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#3
Yes sir I have there are 4 holes around the top of the intake that something screws into and I cannot figure out what they are
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#4
I have the original Torker, but if you will send a picture of the holes you are referring to, I am sure we can help

Is this it


.jpg   torker II.JPG (Size: 10.8 KB / Downloads: 189)

If so, the stand off in the back is for your throttle cable assembly to bolt to.

The 4 larger holes surrounding the car are bolt holes and, obviously, the 4 holes on the carb mounting pad are for the carb mounting studs.

On mine (and I cant see in the photos) is a fitting below the carb for a larger vacuum line . I have a 90 degree tube and fittings there to pull for my vacuum brake line (It goes to a vacuum canister frst as my camshaft is pretty friggin big (I just enjoy saying that), I have a 3/8 line of the carb baseplate to the PCV valve, the ported vacuum comes from the carb, and the extra vacuum line from the carb is used to operate my Ram Air flappers.

Of course I have aftermarket AC and if your car is AC equipped from the factory, then there will be a factory canister that needs a line and it would operate your controls. If you don't have Ram Air, then the carb fitting would be available., if you do a t fitting would allow that same port to provide your vacuum source for both.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#5
Those 4 holes better not be for the carb studs!

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged
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#6
there not [/font]carb holes lol I have the carb on it already

Jeff that's it I posted torker 2 and ment to say torker thank you so much for your help my cleveland is setting in a 54 ford f100 now I have another question I am not running a heater or a/c on my cleveland can I block both of those hoses coming from the block and the water pump
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#7
54fordf100;170043 Wrote:there not [/font]carb holes lol I have the carb on it already

Jeff that's it I posted torker 2 and ment to say torker thank you so much for your help my cleveland is setting in a 54 ford f100 now I have another question I am not running a heater or a/c on my cleveland can I block both of those hoses coming from the block and the water pump

I blocked off both mine. They are press in and we pulled them out and tapped the holes and run in a NPT thread plug into the holes.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#8
There are also some threaded blind holes in the corners which provide mounting points for things like coils and clamps-these tend to stay empty upon install except for maybe one for the coil. I run an HEI with the coil in cap so I don't have a coil mounted on the intake. I would prefer to run a coil mounted off the engine and away from the heat

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
  Reply
#9
Okay great thanks again I am also running a the same thing coil in cap now one more question and I think I good to go were can I get a wiring harness for a 1 wire starter 1 wire alternator and 1 wire built in coil disturbitor I wanna fire my engine without having to spend 600 Dallors on a full wiring harness from Ron Francis at the moment thanks Matt
  Reply
#10
For the one wire alternator, you really don't need an additional harness, you literally run a wire to the battery hot side or battery hot side of the starter relay. The one wire distributors are about as easy, you just need a key on power source (as the car won't shut off otherwise)

I'm only familiar with the 1 wire starter as a conversion of GM starters to ford style using a remote mount starter relay (it is often called a solenoid)

If you have no harness at all that's a bigger issue.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
  Reply
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