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351 C no start ..... help
#1
Hi there once again, I was all fired up to start my engine today after a minor top end rebuild, (cam,lifters, edelbrock intake, 4 bbl Holley, Headers, and nice 351 valve covers)! Today I was ready to fire up the 351, and had my wife ready to video.... however the engine had other plans as it did not start, it kicked once and that was it. I have ruled out fuel as I undid the fuel line and it is pumping just fine, next spark issues. Firstly I have the small distributor wire going to the neg side of the coil, I have a 12 volt wire going to the +side of the coil from engine harness. I checked this and I do have 12 volts there. So I know I have 12 v going to coil. However when I connect the large coil wire (that goes to the dist.) to coil and dissconnect the dist. end and crank it over it does not shoot a spark when you place it to a ground. However again, I can put my meter on the dist. end of the coil wire and when I crank it over there is 12 volts, any ideas, sounds like a coil to me, but it did work when I had the engine going last!
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#2
It sounds like a coil. Do you have any spark?

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#3
droptop73;64691 Wrote:It sounds like a coil. Do you have any spark?

No I have no spark, no fire jumping from coil wire
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#4
If you have a multimeter try this
or you could swap coils.


Check the ignition coil primary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the positive (Black wire) and negative (Green wire) terminals on the coil. The resistance should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
Check the ignition coil secondary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the coil output terminal and the ignition coil negative terminal. The resistance should be 5000 to 7200 ohms.

measure across the plus (+) and minus (-) terminals. It should be between 1.5 and 2.0 ohms.

ohms are approximate but you should get a low reading primary side
and a higher reading on the secondary.
no ohms means shorted. your wire colors could also vary but the
principal is there

good luck
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#5
Did you replace the points and condenser?
I got a bad condenser from the parts house. try sliding a piece of fine Emory cloth through the points to clean them, if that don't do it, put the old condenser back in and try that.
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#6
Shell - you say "it kicked once and that was it". Does that mean there was an explosion in the combustion chamber (which is how internal combustion engines work)? If so, you had a spark but it might have been totally out of time. In that case, I would re-install the dizzy and try again. If there was no spark and there was fuel delivery, check the coil, distributor components, etc. Let us know what happens.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#7
73vertproject;64792 Wrote:Shell - you say "it kicked once and that was it". Does that mean there was an explosion in the combustion chamber (which is how internal combustion engines work)? If so, you had a spark but it might have been totally out of time. In that case, I would re-install the dizzy and try again. If there was no spark and there was fuel delivery, check the coil, distributor components, etc. Let us know what happens.
Yes, there was an explosion for a second, I will get a new coil today and see what happens firstly, because I think there should be a good solid spark coming from coil which I do not have Sad
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#8
Here we go again. I went to check coil and it is OK. I decided to then check points and condenser, I then realized the whole inside of dizzy where the points fasten to is floating, which I dont think is correct, so then I decided (as much as I didnt want to) to install the HEI system with integral coil I had bought last winter. So I connected the wire that was 12v on coil when I used points and let her rip! It ran sort of! it did flash right up but runs like a sack of crap and backfires I hope it is simply a timing issue. Do you think it could be 180 wrong? I am not sure what it should idle like with the new cam however, but I am sure better than it does!
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#9
If it's 180 off it will bang and sputter but will not run. If it runs it may be 1 tooth or so off. Does it get better if you rotate the distributor? Are all your plug wires secure?

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#10
Are you sure that the + wire is 12 volts ? I'm thinking that in the run position it is only 8 volts. HEI requires 12.
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