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2V carb
#1
Hello,

Interested in an easy step by step guide to basic ignition timing and carb adjustments. I know the basics and have used a vacumn gauge to adjust the timing to the highest steady reading, did the same for the carb mixture screws. Seems to run well with no "pinging". I am having a problem with adjusting the choke and would like any advice on that. Started the car this am after it sat outside all night ...app. 30 degress. Started but ran very poorly, kept stalling, flooded etc. I finally had to take off the air cleaner lid and put a screw driver in the carb to hold open the flap app. 1/3 an inch. Once I did this the car started right up and ran fine even after I removed the screwdriver. So I am guessing I need to adjust/turn the black plastic cap in the "leaner" direction(?) Also. there is an electrical plug attached to the outside of the choke ... I believe it is fed by the alternator. I have installed a one wire alternator and removed the external voltage regulator. Would this have an impact on the power to the choke? Otherwise the alternator works fine and I did hook up a lead so the alternator "idiot" still functions. Any advice would be great ... many thanks.
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#2
The pwr normally comes from the voltage regulator. Since you have a 1 wire alternator you have disabled the electric choke. You can run a wire from a +12v switched ignition source so that it has power only when motor is running and it will work again. If you connect it to a source that always has 12v you will drain the battery. Once you have done this start the car and when the motor is warmed the choke should be fully open, if not adjust it till it is open. Do not connect it to the + side of the coil to get the 12v as it will draw too much power and you'll have ignition issues.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#3
It also sounds like the vacuum pull-off either needs adjusting or is not working. As soon as the engine starts the pull-off will open the choke a quarter of an inch, or so, so it doesn't flood while waiting for it to warm up.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
Don C;250599 Wrote:It also sounds like the vacuum pull-off either needs adjusting or is not working. As soon as the engine starts the pull-off will open the choke a quarter of an inch, or so, so it doesn't flood while waiting for it to warm up.

Thanks for both posts ... hopefully I will get to it today.

naa10104;250628 Wrote:
Don C;250599 Wrote:It also sounds like the vacuum pull-off either needs adjusting or is not working. As soon as the engine starts the pull-off will open the choke a quarter of an inch, or so, so it doesn't flood while waiting for it to warm up.

Thanks for both posts ... hopefully I will get to it today.

Additional follow up ... the lead I ran from the back of the one wire alternator to the existing lead for the alternator "idiot" light in the dash. Would that work for the switched source for the choke ? I believe I connected to the red/grn original wire for the idiot light and it does work. Thanks
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#5
Does it have 12v all the time? I am thinking it does but I don't know your setup.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#6
jbojo;250652 Wrote:Does it have 12v all the time? I am thinking it does but I don't know your setup.

Not sure ... For some reason I think it is only hot when on or running but I can check that later. Any place else I could get switched power under the hood. Thanks
  Reply
#7
Did you use a 3G alternator? If so, it has a stator wire, which is the white/black wire that comes out of the large 3-wire connector and connects to a single wire terminal between the main power connection and the 3-wire connector. The stator wire is what Ford used for connecting the electric choke. This way the only time the choke will open is when the car is actually running. Connecting the choke to a switched 12 volt wire will energize the choke whenever the switch is on, which may cause the choke to open sooner than desired.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#8
naa10104;250664 Wrote:
jbojo;250652 Wrote:Does it have 12v all the time? I am thinking it does but I don't know your setup.

Not sure ... For some reason I think it is only hot when on or running but I can check that later. Any place else I could get switched power under the hood. Thanks

Is it connected by a single cable from the alt to the battery or + side of the starter solenoid? No other wires then it's hot all the time. You mentioned in your first post one wire.

Edit: Does your carb have the idle solenoid? That gets 12v when the ignition is on and you can tap into that for the choke.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#9
naa10104;250628 Wrote:Additional follow up ... the lead I ran from the back of the one wire alternator to the existing lead for the alternator "idiot" light in the dash. Would that work for the switched source for the choke ? I believe I connected to the red/grn original wire for the idiot light and it does work. Thanks

I wouldn't use the idiot light ("I") circuit. It is fed from the ignition switch through the idiot light and a bypass resistor and the additional load will likely reduce the voltage to the alternator too much.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#10
jbojo;250669 Wrote:
naa10104;250664 Wrote:
jbojo;250652 Wrote:Does it have 12v all the time? I am thinking it does but I don't know your setup.

Not sure ... For some reason I think it is only hot when on or running but I can check that later. Any place else I could get switched power under the hood. Thanks

Is it connected by a single cable from the alt to the battery or + side of the starter solenoid? No other wires then it's hot all the time. You mentioned in your first post one wire.

Not a 3 G. If memory is right ... One wire to + side of starter solenoid... Ground to inner wheel well. There is a 2 blade connector on back of alternator .... One blade goes to red/grn wire to activate alternator idiot light.
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