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1973 Mustang Convertible Restoration and Modification
#21
73vertproject;10031 Wrote:Slowly but surely progress is made.

I removed the tappets and, with some difficulty and a cheater bar, loosened the head bolts. I then pried the heads off with a small pry bar, being careful not to mar any mating surfaces.

First, the driver's side





Then the passenger side





Looks pretty empty with everything removed




Lots of sludge in there, probably from using a non-detergent oil like they did years ago. I took the heads down to the school auto shop as a project for the high school kids. They're excited, and the shop teacher promised to watch them closely.

Next up, remove and clean oil pan, swap out the cams, and start ordering new intake and exhaust manifold, carb, etc.

I did the same thing to mine years ago. Both heads were cracked and the oil pan was full of billet. Had to get a crank kit. The thrust ? was all chewed up. Full rebuild was required. Mark

My garage http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage...rxt_uid=40

73 mach 1 351c 4v cc ported, torker2, 750 edelbrock,C6.
73 fastback 351c 2v,performer intake,600 edelbrock,fmx, 325 trac-lok.
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#22
Well, in order to get the water pump off, I realized that I needed to pull the harmonic balancer.

By removing the starter, I could wedge a small crowbar into the flywheel:


.jpg   Crowbar holds flywheel (Small).JPG (Size: 57.44 KB / Downloads: 200)

Then I took a small torch and a bunch of penetrating fluid to the harmonic balancer bolt, and it came loose with ease.


.jpg   Harmonic balancer bolt removes easily (Small).JPG (Size: 59.23 KB / Downloads: 199)

That's when the trouble started. I bought a harmonic balancer removal tool at the auto parts store, but the first time I used it, I didn't center it correctly and the two bolts bent at the junction of the threads and the bolt. I got 'em straightened out, but they were damaged. I started removing the HD with relative ease for many revolutions of the removal bolt, but then it got REALLY hard to torque. After a few more revolutions, one of the tool bolts broke at the damaged area. I looked to see what the problem was, and this is what I saw:


.jpg   Harmbonic balancer removal (Small).JPG (Size: 57.68 KB / Downloads: 206)

And this is the closeup:


.jpg   Harmonic balancer removal closup (Small).JPG (Size: 46.39 KB / Downloads: 200)

What's going on here? Am I pulling the crank out of the block? Or am I almost finished and just need to replace the HD tool bolt and get back at it?

On another note, a sliver of metal from the very outer top edge of the combustion chamber came loose


.jpg   Metal sliver of head mating surface (Small).JPG (Size: 41.54 KB / Downloads: 202)

If you can see it next to my ring finger, it's as thin as an electric guitar string. Is this a major concern, or just something that happens and the head gasket compensates for?

Hopefully, things will work out soon.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#23
Doc, just my 2c worth but with metal fragments if it was me I would feel safer doing a complete trea down. From your pics it looks like the HB. should be just about out. You are not pulling the crank out that is the shaft from the HB .
Jim
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#24
What you see on the balancer is the "sleeve" the seal rides on. It's part of the balancer. as for the sliver from the block was it attached, did it leave a void in the block deck surface?

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#25
Doc, just my 2c worth but with those metal fragments if was me I would do a complete tear down and clean up. You are not pulling the crank out from your pics it looks like the HB should be just about out. That is the shaft for the HB.
Jim
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#26
Well, that sounds like great news, guys. I may just go get another bolt and see if I can finish up tonight. More on the metal sliver that is still attached to the block in the next update. Smile (Feeling much better now).

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#27
With the front cover trying to come off at the same time as the HB it may be binding. Mark

My garage http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage...rxt_uid=40

73 mach 1 351c 4v cc ported, torker2, 750 edelbrock,C6.
73 fastback 351c 2v,performer intake,600 edelbrock,fmx, 325 trac-lok.
  Reply
#28
73vertproject;10198 Wrote:Well, in order to get the water pump off, I realized that I needed to pull the harmonic balancer.

By removing the starter, I could wedge a small crowbar into the flywheel:



Then I took a small torch and a bunch of penetrating fluid to the harmonic balancer bolt, and it came loose with ease.



That's when the trouble started. I bought a harmonic balancer removal tool at the auto parts store, but the first time I used it, I didn't center it correctly and the two bolts bent at the junction of the threads and the bolt. I got 'em straightened out, but they were damaged. I started removing the HD with relative ease for many revolutions of the removal bolt, but then it got REALLY hard to torque. After a few more revolutions, one of the tool bolts broke at the damaged area. I looked to see what the problem was, and this is what I saw:



And this is the closeup:



What's going on here? Am I pulling the crank out of the block? Or am I almost finished and just need to replace the HD tool bolt and get back at it?

On another note, a sliver of metal from the very outer top edge of the combustion chamber came loose



If you can see it next to my ring finger, it's as thin as an electric guitar string. Is this a major concern, or just something that happens and the head gasket compensates for?

Hopefully, things will work out soon.
Your not pulling the crank out of the block...Whats worked for me in the past is to pull a bit out remove the puller then tap back in with a block of wood...then pull back out..tap back in...Keep repeating Till you get it out..Look at the old head gasket that sliver could be from the metal on the gasket (You hope) If it's from the block You can lightly smooth out the edge of the bore with a piece of 180 then 220. Also tap the timing gear case cover FLAT to the block the seal could be putting a bind on your pulling operations


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#29
Yikes! Looks nice and goooooie! Smile
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#30
Doc, I could be wrong, but the water pump should come off without having to pull the HB. Sad Hope you got ir worked out!
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