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1973 Mach 1 H-code Question
#1
I will look at a 1973 Mach 1 here that has 351 2v engine. I have never driven an H code...how are they in stock form in the power department?
About 8 years ago I had a 1972 Q code Mach...plenty of power but wondering about the H -code..its an auto car.
Thanks
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#2
From my experience the H code cars have decent acceleration but not the muscle car feel of the Q code or greater cars.
And if this H code is running a low numerical rear end, it will be pretty tame.

It is not that difficult to modify (OUCH LOL) a H code to run a 4-V carburator to help restore some power. The 2-V heads are not too bad so not totally necessary to change those too.

It all depends on what you are wanting to do with the car.

Ray

1971 Boss 351  
1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 
1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 
1973 Mach 1 (parts car)
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#3
You could always put a pair of Aussie 2v quench heads on and something like an RPM air gap intake. That might make a bit of difference.
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#4
The H code is the low compression base version of the 351c. Its not going to have a whole lot of power with only 8 to 1 compression. Put a 4v manifold and a set of aussie heads on it and it should bring it up to around 9.2 to 1 range and give it a little more snap. I'll let you know, cause thats what I am doing to of mine right now.

Ritchie
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#5
I have a h code auto 2.75 diff gears. It doesn't feel like a muscle car in any way but it is an awesome cruise car. Idle along the beach sounding and looking all cool. It will also sit on 90mph all day on the highway. Super cheap to run. Just don't be tempted to drag race anything faster than a push bike. If you want to modify it,diff gears need to be no1 on job list ditto 2v and air gap
Cheers
Luke

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise
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#6
Unless you can get aussie heads for $500 bucks (you cant) and get them completely setup with valves and new seats and an angle job for another $500 bucks...they are a waste of money. I know. Get a set of new alum CHI's with cnc job and valve set up for around $2k and will save you headaches and you get better performance and shave around 50lbs off the front end.
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#7
True or he could just get a Holley and air gap and a gear set and have change from 2 grand. The guy didn't state he wants lots of power just wanted to compare driving a 2 barrel to his old 4 barrel car. Not trying to argue just trying to stick to the requested info before we have the bloke driving around in a blown monster before he buys it Wink

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise
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#8
Step 1. Figure out how many other options you might have (other model code cars available for sale within your price range).

Step 2. Decide what you want to do with the car. Cruiser, daily driver, part-time or full-time race car?

Step 3. Throw out everything from Step 1 and Step 2, and just buy the dang thing! You can make it exactly what you want over time without breaking the bank.

With any car, you need to decide if you want to re-gear to overcome some of the power deficiencies, or make more power to overcome gearing issues (while maintaining some semblance of economy).

Good luck - I hope you get it and share in the fun with us!

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#9
Mister 4x4;154648 Wrote:Step 1. Figure out how many other options you might have (other model code cars available for sale within your price range).

Step 2. Decide what you want to do with the car. Cruiser, daily driver, part-time or full-time race car?

Step 3. Throw out everything from Step 1 and Step 2, and just buy the dang thing! You can make it exactly what you want over time without breaking the bank.

With any car, you need to decide if you want to re-gear to overcome some of the power deficiencies, or make more power to overcome gearing issues (while maintaining some semblance of economy).

Good luck - I hope you get it and share in the fun with us!
Yup,What he said!
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