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1972 mach 1
Hello I came across this guy selling a 72 mach 1. I don’t know much about it, it is running and that it is almost done. What would you guys say it is worth based on the pictures. Thanks for the help
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How is he representing the car? Concours ready? Driver quality?

?? What engine code is it? H code? Q Code? It has a Cleveland but is it original? Auto or Manual? They got a little happy with the blue paint under the hood as well as some important items missing (vac line on PCV valve to start) . Also did a 3 year old paint the "Mach 1" on the side? You need the VIN code to know what it is. Also there is some rust bubbling through the bondo on the drivers door, hood black out is wrong (but this happens more often than not) . It is nearly impossible to give a value to something based on 4 pics and no pics of interior and no information on the vehicle. That being said I do like the color.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason

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see if he can provide u with the VIN and take a pic of the tag on the drivers door. what's he asking for it. it looks very nice but pic's can lie.
Who cares what he is representing the car as. What does he want for it? What condition is it in? Is it a real mach?? Original engine? Original  yellow?  Need rust repair?. Lots of questions to ask. Lots of homework to be done. Looks to me it needs a fair amount of work to make it nice. Put eyes on it. Then make an offer.

movie stars with addictions go to the Betty Ford clinic,
I take my addiction to the Henry Ford clinic.Haha
I don't know what "almost done" means to you, but I see rot in the driver's rear wheel lip and door, waves in the bodylines and the stripes and blackout were clearly rattle-canned on and not well at that.

Might be worth a look-see if the price is right, but there appears to be a bunch of fluff-n-buff going on with this one.

Please post a link to the sale listing.

Its a cleveland with 2V heads so nothing special drivetrain wise.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
There is a reason a person stops on a project. Usually once they get into the car and see what all it needs they bail out, lol.
With the visible rust there has to be really bad rust issues in the usual places, cowl, floors, trunk, tail light panel, quarters, etc.
Without it being somewhat of a special model it would cost way more to rebuild than find one in better shape. Yes you can fix about anything but takes lots of funds or lots of your time and funds.
Like stated you need more info, door sticker, Marti and lots more pics.
BTW you should never leave a Mustang sitting on stands or a lift with the wheels just hanging. It pinches the rubber bushings in the upper shock mount and they split it also can split the bushings in the radius rods. Ford manuals give correct way to lift the car. Probably has leaking tires so he put in air to keep them from cracking when flat.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
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