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1971Suspension and steering
I noticed a few things while disassembling my front suspension and steering systems.  First, I don't think any of my suspension components have been replaced - ever.  Nothing has a zirk fitting, so I am assuming everything is original.  Second, how many of these components can actually be rebuilt and reused?  I see a lot of sorta kinda replacement parts and a few sources for bushes and ball joints, but are they any good?  Third - It appears that the hubs and spindles for drum and disc brake front suspensions are the same - can anyone confirm that?  Fourth - is there any insight or resources regarding how these parts were put together?  I'm having a bit of a time trying to figure out how the ball joints in the steering linkage are pressed in to the various components.  Finally, can anyone explain why the tie rod ends are motion restricted vs the inner tie rods?  It's making my brain hurt...

Drum spindles are not the same as disk brake spindles. As with all the aftermarket parts there are a wide variety of quality options. Opentracker Racing, and others have some quality parts. I have moog tie rod ends on my steering and am happy with them. What is your end goal with the suspension and steering?
My goal is to get as close to original as possible.

(05-17-2020, 08:40 PM)MikeGriese Wrote: My goal is to get as close to original as possible.

Then I’m the wrong guy to talk to.  Someone should be able to steer you in the right direction as far as restoring it to as it was.


I did mine back 'original' basic front-end replacement, as mine was completely original from the factory 48 years ago. I really can't speak about motion restricted you asked about. Most of the new parts have fittings to lube Smile

I took parts off and used a service manual to figure out what I could buy and put back. It took time! to look at parts on the diagram and find replacements. I did not buy a 'kit' from eBay or other Mustang vendors. Nothing fancy. Bought parts NAPA, and think Rare for Pitman ARM but I did not 'rebuild' anything. Did upper/lower control arms complete assembly, springs, tied rods ends, ball joints, springs, pitman ARM, idle arm., Bought bushing for things for the strut (insulator washers), and stabilizer bar that didn't need special tools. Other than the spring compressor. I turned the rotors. I have a link that has some pictures of parts I took off. did get help on the coil springs, they scared the shit out of me. Search site for front replacement pictures from me. Not much help for you but least tell you the approach that I did.

Save you some time here are the links I mentioned above and some info I had asked before I started.



Good luck!
You should be able to get all your stuff from Don at OMS. Or try NPD.

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
As mentioned Drum and Disc spindles are different. Drums have 4 bolt holes while disc have 3. As far as replacements. I ordered new upper and lower control arms from Moog. They do have zerts but the ball joints are riveted in like the originals were. Hope this helps.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason

[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
Here is what I am talking about on the ball joints. 

[Image: 20200517-135308-1.jpg]

The top and bottom are the outer tie rods, the middle two are the inner.  Note the outer ball joints don't have fully circular openings in the retainers for the ball stud.  They restrict movement to be more in line with the tie rod.  The ball joints on the inner rods have circular retainers.

Not many of the components can be rebuilt as such. You can replace the ball joint and the inner shaft and bushing on the upper control arm. If you want them to look original they do sell the rivets to put back in the ball joints. You will need probably at least a 25 ton hydraulic press or heat the rivets to install.
Since my Mach 1 had sat so long I did change my ball joints and steering linkage. 
I ordered my components from NPD and they were Moog who was the original supplier. One thing I did find wrong was after I had the ball joints installed I was putting the grease zerks in and one of the upper joints did not have the hole tapped. The metal has been hardened so I could not get it in.
The lower arms were complete and just bolt on. 
When you go to rent a coil spring compressor get one that goes inside much safer. 
Be sure to follow the Ford guidelines when lifting the car and block the upper control arm from dropping all the way down. It will destroy the upper shock rubber and can split the strut rod bushings in the front cross member. I scanned the Ford manual in the past and posted if you search it. I have seen the holes in the front cross member torn up also. 
I have gas filled shocks on my 73 vert and they make the ride more harsh especially when you hit a bump. Handling is great but not a soft ride. I forget the brand Japanese. 
Here are a couple pics of some of the parts I used.
[Image: DSC-0943-2.jpg]

[Image: DSC-0944-2.jpg]

[Image: DSC-0967.jpg]

[Image: DSC-0971.jpg]

[Image: DSC-0968.jpg]

q50s 0 60

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
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