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1971 Mustang Convertible - Code Name: Burn Victim
#41
72Bossclone;163032 Wrote:I had that same wheel in my 72 for a while until I found a mint rimblow. That wheels nice though comfy grip and a little thicker gives a sporty feel compared to the ultra thin original wheel, diameters a little smaller too so if your tall it's kinda nice no knees rubbing the wheel.

I think it will definitely feel a little sportier. I'm not a huge guy (the phrase big boned comes to mind though) but 6'1" and 215 would fit a little better behind a slightly smaller wheel.

Mister 4x4;163090 Wrote:I'd want to know exactly how extensive the fire damage is. If the shock towers, cross-members, and frame rails are fire damaged, you might need to consider swapping out the entire front clip. It's doable - trust me. Wink But also very involved (especially with a 'vert) and accuracy is critical. Q's excellent advice and references helped me do mine.

Fortunately (and Unfortunately as well), just about all of the affected sheet metal pieces EXCEPT the shock towers, cross-members, and full frame rails are available as repops. Getting a 'new' front clip from a good donor vehicle can be done if you're wanting and needing to go that far.

That steering wheel is AWESOME!! thumb I'm going with a Grant Classic wheel that looks almost the same (chrome spokes, black foam grip). As nice as it is, I'd definitely use that wheel in the car. It's gonna be sharp!

I'm waiting to make any assumptions on the condition until at least the body panels are off and the motor is out. I'm prepared to do whatever it takes (within reason) to make it right but it's a little early to make a definite plan. Everyone has been exceptionally helpful in giving me options and things to look for.

From what I have seen, Grant makes some good looking wheels so I'm sure one would look great in your car. In my opinion, the coolest thing about my wheel is it belonged to my dad so it has some value beyond just being a cool old steering wheel.

kidwithfastback=fast;163039 Wrote:These mustangs in my opinion are some of the handsomest verts out there. If you feel that you can put it back on the road, go for it! you got our support!!!

(just please dont put gigantic chrome rims on plz. Stick with some 5 spokes) :Big Grin:

I swear, no gigantic chrome rims. Some people like that stuff, admittedly I have some friends that would probably like that, but I'll keep it classy. If I'm lucky I'll be able to save the front rim that got scorched and I'll keep those on the car. They are 17s and honestly I think they look great.
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#42
Well here's a 4 year update. Not much new with the car. I have it 90% torn down and ready for the body to be soda blasted. The car sat in storage for a couple years and is now making my garage it's home.

[Image: 20180723_223721.jpg]

[Image: 20180723_223705.jpg]

[Image: 20180721_213538.jpg]

Last year I parted out a 2013 F150 that donated it's 5.0 V8. So new game plan in a nutshell:

- Coyote swap with some cam/intake work
- Rod n Custom front suspension swap w/coilovers
- 6r80 automatic
- 8.8 or 9 inch rear end with disc brakes
- Custom tubular front subframe support
- Subframe connectors
- $$$$$$$$$$

So in the coming week or 2 I need to get the rest of the car taken apart and sent to my soda blaster. My end goal is 400 RWHP which I think I can achieve fairly easily with some hot rodding on the 5.0.

So resto-mod, pro-touring, custom is the direction I decided to go with the car. My concept is somewhat of a 47 year update. Car was originally a 302 automatic car, so here's the modern version of that.

On a side note, has anyone here used the rod n custom kit? I'd love some input on that.
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#43
When you Soda blast you have to do an exceptional job of neutralizing the soda. If you do not you will have paint nightmares forever. Soda will usually not take rust off either only paint. You might look at plastic media for paint, plastic will not take rust off either. and rust is a huge issue. You cannot sand blast exterior panels why will warp and be scrap. Chassis is ok to sand blast but no exterior. If your blasting supplier says otherwise he is crazy.
The heat does not do much unless it gets hot enough for the panels to sag or warp.
D


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#44
(07-29-2018, 03:56 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: When you Soda blast you have to do an exceptional job of neutralizing the soda. If you do not you will have paint nightmares forever. Soda will usually not take rust off either only paint. You might look at plastic media for paint, plastic will not take rust off either. and rust is a huge issue. You cannot sand blast exterior panels why will warp and be scrap. Chassis is ok to sand blast but no exterior. If your blasting supplier says otherwise he is crazy.
The heat does not do much unless it gets hot enough for the panels to sag or warp.
D

Great point you brought up. I've done a ton of research on the topic, like hours on top of hours since I originally bought the car. At this point I believe my blaster is going to spray an etching primer himself after blasting and cleaning the car. Should avoid any issues that way since he will be responsible for the paint sticking as well. I asked him about the potential problems directly and he answered my question confidently. This guy blasts a majority of the show quality cars in my area and has been recommended heavily by everyone who knew who he was. Thanks for the advice
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