• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
1971 Grandé Concourse Restoration
#21
Boss1Ray;282614 Wrote:Sounds like great work! Pics will help! Smile

Looking forward to seeing them!

Ray
Mechanic and sprayer are documenting all work with many pics. I will get them all on memory stick when they finished, Will post lots when i receive Smile

Steve
1971 Grandé
  Reply
#22
bkdunha;282611 Wrote:The engine compartment was shot in semi-gloss black from the top and down under the firewall into the torque box area as far as the painter felt like stretching. Usually not very far doing a couple hundred cars a day. I would recommend you paint the underside slop gray up to about the middle of the firewall and then paint the engine bay black over that. Please remember these were guys building hundreds of cars a day. They didn't care how long the car lasted their focus was the 60 seconds the car was in front of them. Your attention in this restoration will probably go well above how it left the factory.

I am at war with myself mentally. As you said the workers only had 60 seconds so quality control was non existent. I really want to stay true to original paint BUT then i want a 21st century paint finish with no orange peel on the body. I am more than happy to stay true to the day it rolled off the line with everything but the paint finish.
After attending a classic car show on Sunday and seeing all the engine bays with a modern Satin Black/semi gloss black finished to a high standard i am leaning toward this finish. Especially when the bodies have no orange peel and the shine from the bodies from a 21st century re-spray look fantastic

Steve
1971 Grandé
  Reply
#23
Pegleg;282617 Wrote:
bkdunha;282611 Wrote:Not sure what steel you are referring to on the heater hose? Was it the clamps from the heater core or are you saying the firewall?
One of those hose remnants in the picture(on the left) has a inner rubber wrapped with metal wire mesh then a outer rubber covering

The hose clamps are aftermarket, more likely the hoses have been replaced. Maybe the po used hydraulic hose stock.
  Reply
#24
Steve, I agree you should do the restoration as you see fit. I truly feel that is the great thing about our site is that we can respect each individuals path on refreshing their car in the manner they choose. For folks talking about going the concourse route or as close to original as they want I try to chime in from time to time and offer up some of the things I have learned talking to many people and doing a lot of research. If you like the gloss/semi gloss engine bays, by all means do it. If you don't like orange peel, color sand and buff it to a mirror. Honestly, my car does not have much orange peel and I may get dinged for that from time to time by MCA. I am OK with that. I like it to look they way I want it to and I respect that of everyone else as well. Enjoy your car and I look forward to you keeping us all posted on how you progress along. Let us know when you have questions, and I am sure you will get all kinds of feedback. Go with the feedback that helps move you along and everyone has their own background and opinions to draw from and hopefully respect that as feedback and nothing else. Looks like you have a lot of parts to get installed now. Better get in the garage.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
  Reply
#25
As i get deeper into the engine i am finding more problems. The engine was fitted with new valve guides to the exhaust side at some point in its history. The guides are worn and need replacing to the exhaust side.
The baffling thing though is the differant exhaust valves and springs. Some of the valves have a flat surface and some of them are concaved. Then when the springs get a closer inspection they are differant lengths with extra shims to make the springs work at a more equal rate. Obviously the last mechanic had a differant idea of what taking care of their car compared to others is.
I tried to buy new valve guides, valves and springs but my local supplier has not got what i need in stock. As its Christmas they will not be receiving their next order until 3rd week of January. Was hoping to have the engine rebuilt, re-installed, and the engine bay done by Christmas but it looks like this phase of restoration will not be finished until mid February.

The York compressor has been inspected by a local specialist and its not repairable. They have ordered one from the States which should be here early January. The clutch is salvageable and it will be cleaned to a new standard. The 2 brackets will be stripped to bare metal and re-sprayed. As for everything else for the A/C under the bonnet it will all need replacing as it is missing!!

Next year should see the the engine bay finished, the undercarriage stripped to bare metal and re-sprayed, the body stripped to bare metal and re-sprayed and new parts fitted where needed. The gas tank has a serious dent so will need replacing.

Steve
1971 Grandé
  Reply
#26
Nice work Steve. Great to hear you continue to make progress. Keep the posts coming.

Scott
  Reply
#27
Its been a while since i was last here !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There has been a lot going on with the car but getting nowhere fast!!!!!!!!!!

The engine is back together and sprayed Ford corporate blue. The headers have been bead blasted with glass beads at 20 PSI along with steering box, carb, rear brake drums. Evereything came up like brand new. The headers have been sprayed with a heat resistant Spray that looks same colour as original cast iron. The engine should be back in within 3 weeks and back on the road.
The underside has had a bare metal strip. Next job is to remove bad metal on left boot drop off. Weld new panel in then spray underside.
I will post some pics once these jobs are complete.
Jobs for the coming autumn/winter will be to bare metal the wheel arches and trunk & then respay those areas.
Another job for the coming winter will be doors, deck lid, hood, front wings will be dipped and stripped. I found a company here in the UK that will dip and strip the whole car(wish i found them 12 months ago)  http://www.envirostripgbltd.com/

Steve
1971 Grandé
  Reply
#28
Removed the black backplate and lights yesterday to reveal the original colour of the car. I was blown away by the brightness of the colour and getting excited about how its going to look when sprayed.
The black at either end has got me baffled. You can see where masking tape used to be. Would this have been done in the factory?
I reckon thats the first time since November 1970 that backplate has been off.
The other thing that baffled me was when i took the rear quarter extensions off there was just a grey primer when the undercarriage and inner doors were red oxide. There is a slight wave in the rear panel that houses the light cluster. Maybe its a repair.
Enjoying getting into the bones of this car and seeing how Ford did things.
You can probably see theres a new gas tank and straps added along with some new leaf springs. The bolts are not correct but i do have the concourse chassis bolt kit from AMK arriving soon.
Finally feel like there is some progress taking place. Its hard to believe its been 13 months since purchase of the car. Things take so long to order, get delivered and then fit. Time flys while the work crawls along.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       

Steve
1971 Grandé
  Reply
#29
The black you are seeing on the rear panel is factory. As you can see it was sprayed when they did the engine bay, the lower black out if a decor group and then the color was put on over the black. The black was between the tail light and the black panel to improve the look. I have seen some with black around the gas filler also but not all. This pic is my 73 vert that is original factory paint also yellow. I believe they used gray primer on all cars since it is a neutral color and works the best for any top color. Under the cars they might have used red oxide when low on the slop paint. Wish we could find a worker from then to explain why.
[Image: DSC_0254.jpg]

[Image: DSC_0255.jpg]

[Image: DSC_0260.jpg]

temporary image hosting


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#30
The black was applied on the inside edge of the taillight housing and should also be around the gas filler hole.  This was to avoid the body color appearing in the gaps between the back trim panel and the other parts.  There is a ford diagram of this in their body manual. I do not have that handy, but this is how I did mine.

   

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Dragging restoration of my 72 Q code! scgamecock 2 152 04-10-2019, 11:10 PM
Last Post: mach71351c
  1971 Hardtop 302 Daily Driver Dope 20 742 03-13-2019, 05:13 AM
Last Post: NOT A T5
  1971 Coupe resto-mod mustaguar 106 21,983 03-09-2019, 07:17 PM
Last Post: OzCoupe72
  MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1) tony-muscle 256 27,066 03-08-2019, 08:13 AM
Last Post: tony-muscle
  Gatormc9's 1971 Vert Adventure gatormc9 59 6,447 12-21-2018, 05:28 PM
Last Post: gpierce
  1971 Mach 1 429 SCJ ponypastor 3 349 10-20-2018, 04:55 PM
Last Post: MikeGriese
  1971 Mach 1 429 SCJ ponypastor 2 344 10-19-2018, 09:13 AM
Last Post: ponypastor
  Progress on my 1971 Super Cobra Jet ponypastor 2 557 09-15-2018, 06:40 PM
Last Post: Fabrice



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)