• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
1970 engine bay measurements
#1
Well guys... Here I am asking for helps once again... This time is for my 1970 mustang hardtop that as the 72 is almost done, i´m gonna start checking it out..

The car is beautiful! it has only 60,000 Km on it (someting like 38000 miles) But aparently, in 1982 the car broke a brake line and smashed into the tail of another car in a stop sign...

Well.. the accident repair was started but i think, even the skins are in decent shape, the engine bay doesn´t convince me... The fenders bolt holes don´t align perfect with the nuts in the bay, and so on...

the car is with the engine on it, and i just wanted to check the engine bay measurements to start from there... Is there any chance i can measure the distance between towers, the longitudinal and transversal upper engine bay measurement with the engine on??

I did check the bottom measurements with a plan i foun on the web and they are ok for now... i just couldnt find how to measure the engine bay in the upper part, where the fenders and hood alignment depends...

Thanks guys!!

   



Damián Cool

[Image: 120x45bk1ani.gif]
Vote For 7173Mustangs.Com Every Day!
  Reply
#2
URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK;10709 Wrote:Well guys... Here I am asking for helps once again... This time is for my 1970 mustang hardtop that as the 72 is almost done, i´m gonna start checking it out..

The car is beautiful! it has only 60,000 Km on it (someting like 38000 miles) But aparently, in 1982 the car broke a brake line and smashed into the tail of another car in a stop sign...

Well.. the accident repair was started but i think, even the skins are in decent shape, the engine bay doesn´t convince me... The fenders bolt holes don´t align perfect with the nuts in the bay, and so on...

the car is with the engine on it, and i just wanted to check the engine bay measurements to start from there... Is there any chance i can measure the distance between towers, the longitudinal and transversal upper engine bay measurement with the engine on??

I did check the bottom measurements with a plan i foun on the web and they are ok for now... i just couldnt find how to measure the engine bay in the upper part, where the fenders and hood alignment depends...

Thanks guys!!
I need a better pic of where the damage is & a top view of the engine compartment. (get on a ladder & take a pic looking down showing both sides)If you measured the bottom frame rails back to front & all checks out...Then your problems could be in the aprons ..rad support...towers..The best way to check this is with whats called a "tram" You can make your own..
Get two pieces of pipe or tube...one has to fit inside the other like a trumbone slide. On each end about an inch in, drill a hole 90 degres to the pipe surface for a nail 4 inches long..glue the nails in ..these are your POINTERS..you can now hold/place your pointer on one end say at the rear fender bolt & the other on the front fender bolt..lock the tram (you can use tape) & move it to the other side to check if they match. It will also allow you to X measure from one side to the other for "square" Just think of a square & putting the X inside the square thats how you measure to check one side to the other for square..Of course you have to use the same exact locations on both sides. Very IMPORTANT tool that comes in very handy.
Scott


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#3
That's a great idea for the tool, Scott. I'm gonna have to put that to use here pretty quick to see why my front parts don't seem to be square. Thanks!

Doc

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#4
Qcode351mach;10773 Wrote:
URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK;10709 Wrote:Well guys... Here I am asking for helps once again... This time is for my 1970 mustang hardtop that as the 72 is almost done, i´m gonna start checking it out..

The car is beautiful! it has only 60,000 Km on it (someting like 38000 miles) But aparently, in 1982 the car broke a brake line and smashed into the tail of another car in a stop sign...

Well.. the accident repair was started but i think, even the skins are in decent shape, the engine bay doesn´t convince me... The fenders bolt holes don´t align perfect with the nuts in the bay, and so on...

the car is with the engine on it, and i just wanted to check the engine bay measurements to start from there... Is there any chance i can measure the distance between towers, the longitudinal and transversal upper engine bay measurement with the engine on??

I did check the bottom measurements with a plan i foun on the web and they are ok for now... i just couldnt find how to measure the engine bay in the upper part, where the fenders and hood alignment depends...

Thanks guys!!
I need a better pic of where the damage is & a top view of the engine compartment. (get on a ladder & take a pic looking down showing both sides)If you measured the bottom frame rails back to front & all checks out...Then your problems could be in the aprons ..rad support...towers..The best way to check this is with whats called a "tram" You can make your own..
Get two pieces of pipe or tube...one has to fit inside the other like a trumbone slide. On each end about an inch in, drill a hole 90 degres to the pipe surface for a nail 4 inches long..glue the nails in ..these are your POINTERS..you can now hold/place your pointer on one end say at the rear fender bolt & the other on the front fender bolt..lock the tram (you can use tape) & move it to the other side to check if they match. It will also allow you to X measure from one side to the other for "square" Just think of a square & putting the X inside the square thats how you measure to check one side to the other for square..Of course you have to use the same exact locations on both sides. Very IMPORTANT tool that comes in very handy.
Scott

You´re an Idol Tongue



Thanks Scott!!... that tool i´m gonna do it today!!, great idea to measure correctry even with the engine in the way... if you use long nails and correct 90° angles not only in the drilled hole of the pipe but a 90° angle between the nail and the reference body point you´re using to do the measure, it´ll work just fine.

Last night i was measuring more and more and all the front of the car appears to point up... (the fenders almost touch the door in the upper part and the gap is much bigger in the lower part.... As i dont have the factory measurements for example, shock tower to shock tower, etc, all i can do is compare one side to another and even if i find some differences, there are less than 1/4 " in every check i do...

I can take better pictures, of course and i will but i can tell you now the main problems are alignment...

If i use the original holes and way to put everything together as i´ll do of course, problems are:

-Fenders pointing up, you can see that in the fender - door gap.
-Approns looks closed, as the shock towers were too close to each other.
-Fender dont bolt easily to the aprons, they are not "sistered" (jeje sistered?? Spanish translated to english!)
-Even when you force fenders to bolt to the aprons, some bolts just dont fit, and the hood doesn´t have enough gap clearence...

This weekend i´ll try to take all the paint and noise reductor off from the approns and rad support in order to see the bare metal there.. The Rad Support is rapaired and the aprons are not totally unmolested so, there´s a good posibility most of the problems are there...

When i get the how to measure the clearense between shock towers, i can check that too...

As you know, for me and where i live, replacing body parts is almost impossible because of the cost os taxes, shipping and OS en almost everything... and a 3 month waiting!! so, i´m just checking to see is i can restore all the original parts... i think i can, but first is to check everything to know what i need to do...

Well.. we keep in touch and as always... Thanks!!!



Damián Cool

[Image: 120x45bk1ani.gif]
Vote For 7173Mustangs.Com Every Day!
  Reply
#5
Sounds good ! In the meantime I found this for u
"The proper dimension
for 64-70 Mustangs is 40" from inner fender to inner fender (at the Monte
Carlo bar mounting points)"

.jpg   montebar1.JPG (Size: 112.92 KB / Downloads: 133)
If the nose is pointing up then you may have a buckle in the front rails some where..Hard to tell without all the front "skins" or as we say sheetmetal off. On the other hand it could just be poor alignment of the front sheetmetal..But a buckle would show up in the under body length dimimsions. Try this..measure from the front leaf spring hanger to the front lower control arm mounting point on the front crossmember but do it in an x left to right then right to left ..Then striaght back to front on both sides..see what you get. Both pairs of measurements should be within 3/16" 5-6mm
Scott

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#6
I thougt that too.. yesterday i asked a friend of mine who has a 66 with a montecarlo bar we istalled a while ago, about the measurement from the upper bolt RH to the upper bolt LH to have a real reference to measure in mine... he didn´t do it yesterday and today i have yours! Wink
I suspect the sides are at least 3/8" closed, that´s what i suppose for how mislined are the aprons nuts to the fenders holes for the bolts, but we´ll see.

If that was the case, do you have a quick advise to open the clearence os the shock towers and aprons without disamble the engine bay? is there any home made trick to acomplish that in order to see the car aligned with the weight of the engine working there?

Well Scott.. again thanks!!! and as soon as i have anything to post, i´ll do it!!



Damián Cool

[Image: 120x45bk1ani.gif]
Vote For 7173Mustangs.Com Every Day!
  Reply
#7
URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK;10816 Wrote:I thougt that too.. yesterday i asked a friend of mine who has a 66 with a montecarlo bar we istalled a while ago, about the measurement from the upper bolt RH to the upper bolt LH to have a real reference to measure in mine... he didn´t do it yesterday and today i have yours! Wink
I suspect the sides are at least 3/8" closed, that´s what i suppose for how mislined are the aprons nuts to the fenders holes for the bolts, but we´ll see.

If that was the case, do you have a quick advise to open the clearence os the shock towers and aprons without disamble the engine bay? is there any home made trick to acomplish that in order to see the car aligned with the weight of the engine working there?

Well Scott.. again thanks!!! and as soon as i have anything to post, i´ll do it!!
Yes..You can use a hydralic jack ..or sissor jack...place it in the center with 2x4 or 4x4 wood blocks on each side till it reaches the sides(you may need to remove the distributer and or air cleaner /carb..) Or if u want to get fancy you make a 90 degree plate with heavy metal that bolts to the shock tower top & do the same thing as above but use the plates as your "pushing points"


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#8
Qcode351mach;10819 Wrote:
URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK;10816 Wrote:I thougt that too.. yesterday i asked a friend of mine who has a 66 with a montecarlo bar we istalled a while ago, about the measurement from the upper bolt RH to the upper bolt LH to have a real reference to measure in mine... he didn´t do it yesterday and today i have yours! Wink
I suspect the sides are at least 3/8" closed, that´s what i suppose for how mislined are the aprons nuts to the fenders holes for the bolts, but we´ll see.

If that was the case, do you have a quick advise to open the clearence os the shock towers and aprons without disamble the engine bay? is there any home made trick to acomplish that in order to see the car aligned with the weight of the engine working there?

Well Scott.. again thanks!!! and as soon as i have anything to post, i´ll do it!!
Yes..You can use a hydralic jack ..or sissor jack...place it in the center with 2x4 or 4x4 wood blocks on each side till it reaches the sides(you may need to remove the distributer and or air cleaner /carb..) Or if u want to get fancy you make a 90 degree plate with heavy metal that bolts to the shock tower top & do the same thing as above but use the plates as your "pushing points"

Hydraulic jacks works horizontally??
I) think t can do that with no problems Smile i´ll loose the cowl braces and should be easy if i can put the jack and the wood pieces on top if the admision of the 302...
I may do some tries in the weekend and i´ll tell you the method it worked me better...
If i can line everything up easily, the rest of the car is a piece the cake Wink

Thanks again scott!




Damián Cool

[Image: 120x45bk1ani.gif]
Vote For 7173Mustangs.Com Every Day!
  Reply
#9
About this therad.. I just want to let you know that during the weekend the work on the 1970 engine bay was A LOT!!... I took pics (but i forgot the camera over my shop)....

The news are:

1) I did the tool scott adviced me to do... Perfect tool to compare measurements!.. I´ll post some pics or the tool.. as it is really usefull...
2) I found out that the measurements are not perfect but they aren´t that far away from each other either...
3) Bigges issue i found was the drivers side shock tower is rotated... in a front look, is noticeable... I think that is the first thing to fix... it may be the biggest problem and the ont that causes all the others...
4) There´s no important rust all over the front of the car Smile

Well.. tomorrow i´ll bring the pics... this thread may not be a 71 73 car but it can be an interesting way to learn how to notice a bad repaired accident and how to fix it Smile

Thanks!!



Damián Cool

[Image: 120x45bk1ani.gif]
Vote For 7173Mustangs.Com Every Day!
  Reply
#10
JUST A COUPLE PENNY'S WORTH. YOU SAID THE SHOCK TOWER LOOKS ROTATED AND THE FRT END POINTS UP. CHECK THE CROSS MEMBER FOR DAMAGE, IF ITS BEEN HIT IT CAN DO THAT TO YOU. SECOND I DONT THINK THERE ARE ANY REAL GOOD FRAME DIAGRAMS THAT I HAVE FOUND BUT IF YOU LEVEL THE CAR, AND LEVEL YOUR BASE LINE, YOU CAN DO ALITTLE MATH AND GET YOUR MEASURMENTS TO SEE IF ITS BENT UP.
I JUST TRIED TO COPY MY DIAGRAM AND COULDNT GET IT TO WORK. BUT I KNOW THERES PEOPLE HERE WHO CAN HELP
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Nut and Bolt Restoration 1970 BOSS 302 Stanglover 25 869 06-08-2018, 05:12 PM
Last Post: Stanglover
  1970 Mach 1 for sale 71fastbackdrag 1 642 01-01-2018, 08:19 PM
Last Post: jowens1126
  1969 mid engine boss 429 was real. hyena429 5 1,669 05-19-2015, 03:09 PM
Last Post: DK73
  1970 Boss 302 Sighting Steve73QMach1 5 949 06-29-2014, 12:42 PM
Last Post: Mister 4x4
  1970 Mustang F code hyena429 5 1,365 02-22-2014, 09:39 PM
Last Post: turtle5353
  Need advice about my 65 choice of engine Don65Stang 56 7,334 04-29-2013, 09:04 AM
Last Post: Don65Stang
  1970 fastback for sale craigs hyena429 5 1,132 11-26-2012, 07:54 PM
Last Post: hyena429
  {Mustang Daily}Video: Tom Nelson reveals the details of the Shelby Code Red engine Forum Bot 0 767 04-19-2011, 12:01 AM
Last Post: Forum Bot



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)