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.040 cleveland temp.
#1
I have a flat top 351c with closed chamber heads that heats up at idle. I have added a aluminum radiator and flex fan with shroud and it still heats up slowly. Every change I have made has helped a bit but after discovering it is .040 over is it possible to keep cool. I have the correct thermostat in it after getting the wrong one and then doing a bit of research. This car is my daughters so I need it to run cool enough that she won't overheat in traffic. The next step is to add a/c so it will really have to be right before I attempt that. I'm adding a 8 qt pan and I may add an oil cooler while I'm at it. My next thing to try is a bit smaller pulley on the water pump and maybe convert the aluminum radiator to a 3 pass . I know all the steps to improve the cooling but what I'm not familiar with is the thin cylinders. So what I'm asking is does anyone on here know of a .040 over cleveland that runs cool on the street. I have had and built dozens of windsors and other types of motors but not clevelands. I have access to a pretty nice .030 block but wonder if that is even a big enough step in the right direction.
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#2
I ran my old Cleveland at 040 over. I never had any trouble with overheating even in bumper to bumper traffic. I didn't have anything special for the cooling system. I used the stock radiator and water pump. also stock thermostat. This probably don't help you, but yes you can keep a 040 over Cleveland cool even with the stock cooling system. Are you running your shroud? I have seen a lot of motors overheat from not having the fan shroud installed.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#3
Clevelands should not overheat. Do you have the correct thermostat?
Not just heat range but a Cleveland specific type. There is a difference.
A Cleveland thermostat has a rim on it.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#4
Do you have a 2 row rad only, is there a fan shroud? Do you have the fan deflector plate that goes on top of the rad and fills the top gap to the shroud? Required on AC cars.

I had a stock 2 row rad, I took it to a rad shop and had them install a high efficiency core with trans cooler upgrade. The EF core has many more fins then a standard core. It acts better then a 3 row rad. Additionally a fan shroud will drop engine temps big time.

For AC cars ford added a top fan deflector this is a short piece of plastic that clips from the top of the rad back over the radiator support sheet metal and fills about a 4" air gap between the rad and the fan shroud. It dropped my engine temperature almost 10 degrees. Just that tiny little piece of plastic. The EF core made a big difference as well.

Or you upgrade to a 3 row or go after market.
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#5
"For AC cars ford added a top fan deflector this is a short piece of plastic that clips from the top of the rad back over the radiator support sheet metal and fills about a 4" air gap between the rad and the fan shroud. It dropped my engine temperature almost 10 degrees. Just that tiny little piece of plastic."

72HCode...always enjoy your posts and learn something new each time. I can't picture the fan deflector nor seem to recall ever seeing one. Can you point me to an example pic...thanks much.

Jeff
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#6
Had this problem on a Hemi we built. Overheated at idle we checked everything even pulled the heads back off.
turned out to be the flexi fan as we had taken the stock fan and shroud off and replaced with this chrome flexi fan.
Put the shroud and old fan back on and all fixed .what a pain in the ass that was !
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#7
goodnigh;126584 Wrote:Clevelands should not overheat. Do you have the correct thermostat?
Not just heat range but a Cleveland specific type. There is a difference.
A Cleveland thermostat has a rim on it.

+1 I have seen more than a few people discover that their "correct" thermostat was not correct. also you need the brass bypass disc installed or it doesnt matter! also, did you install a new waterpump? they become less effective over time. Did you install a new lower rad hose? did you put in the spring? the hose will collapse at higher rpm and starve the cooling system.
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#8
I don't have my Temp gauge hooked up yet, but my .060-over 351C is running spot-on at 180-ish at idle. I have a Ready Rad 3-core from Advance Auto Parts, along with a repop fan shroud from OMS, Classic Auto Air A/C condenser, and a 7-blade fan that came off my pal's '63.5 Galaxie 500 XL (it was obviously the wrong one for his 390 car).

I'm getting those temp readings with a laser thermometer - so they might be just a tad different, depending on locations.

Glad to have found the info about the fan deflector plate - gotta get one now. I'm sure I'll be needing every advantage I can get out here in "Typical Triple-Digit West Texas." Not to mention preventing all the tools from dropping down between the condenser and radiator. rofl

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#9
Mister 4x4;126673 Wrote:I don't have my Temp gauge hooked up yet, but my .060-over 351C is running spot-on at 180-ish at idle. I have a Ready Rad 3-core from Advance Auto Parts, along with a repop fan shroud from OMS, Classic Auto Air A/C condenser, and a 7-blade fan that came off my pal's '63.5 Galaxie 500 XL (it was obviously the wrong one for his 390 car).

I'm getting those temp readings with a laser thermometer - so they might be just a tad different, depending on locations.

Glad to have found the info about the fan deflector plate - gotta get one now. I'm sure I'll be needing every advantage I can get out here in "Typical Triple-Digit West Texas." Not to mention preventing all the tools from dropping down between the condenser and radiator. rofl

.060! WOOF! Was your block sonic tested?

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#10
Not sure about sonic tested, but the machine shop said it was still a good block (despite how it looked when I pulled it out). The machinist also said it should be just fine with my intent for daily driving, since I'm not planning on racing it or much of any really 'hard' driving. The key is to keep it cool, and it should do well. So far, so good.

He regularly builds race cars and runs 'em at local/regional drag strips (usually does pretty well, too). I told him the plan, mentioned the cam specs, pistons, roller set-up, and everything else, and he liked the choices I'd made. He's run .060 Clevelands before with good luck, but he mostly runs Chevy 383s since they're so much cheaper. The only reason they went that far was because of a scar in the #4 from when it was rusted in there. He'd asked if I wanted to sleeve it and stick with .040, or go .060. Not knowing much about sleeving at the time, I went with .060, after he told me what he thought about it. (I figured that having one cylinder sleeved would've been a bad thing... now, not so much). I also figured that if it was such a big issue, they wouldn't actually make .060 pistons and rings.

Hey, if it gives up, I'll either get 'em all sleeved and go back down to .030, or start with a new block (now that I know my set-up seems to be working).

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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