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Pertronix II questions
#1
I received the Pertronix II module (not the whole dizzy) today and want to get it installed. The builder said I should also get a set of solid plug wires, so I ordered them and they are on the way. But the P II directions say, "CAUTION... DO NOT USE SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES WITH THE IGNITOR II IGNITION SYSTEM." But they don't say why?

Anyone have experience here? Should I send the solid core wires back when they get here?

Any other tips or tricks I should know about? I'll be very careful 'cause I don't want to fry my factory tach.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#2
Hey...NEW TOYS!!!! I LOVE DISTRIBUTORS!!!

73vertproject;65577 Wrote:I received the Pertronix II module (not the whole dizzy) today and want to get it installed. The builder said I should also get a set of solid plug wires, so I ordered them and they are on the way. But the P II directions say, "CAUTION... DO NOT USE SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES WITH THE IGNITOR II IGNITION SYSTEM." But they don't say why?

Call them!!!
Phone: (909) 547-9058
They are in CA.

I do not know why your builder would recommend solid core for your application.

73vertproject;65577 Wrote:Anyone have experience here? Should I send the solid core wires back when they get here?

I would send them back. Any good 8mm wire will do for your application.

If you are using an Ignitor II, you are basically getting the same voltage as a factory breaker point ignition.

73vertproject;65577 Wrote:Any other tips or tricks I should know about? I'll be very careful 'cause I don't want to fry my factory tach.

1. I would leave my factory tach out of the loop until I had my engine running. Then, I posted diagram of how to wire in the tach, which requires you to cut into a wire under the dash, and run it through the firewall.

If you can wait a few weeks on the tach, I might have a more elegant solution.

2. I thought you were getting a whole new distributor?

3. Once you get up and running, you might want to get a spare Ignitor II. That way if you have an issue, you just swap it out.

4. Get a TIMING LIGHT if you don't have one.

5. Get a DWELL METER if you don't have one.

6. Get a VACUUM GUN/GAGE if you don't have one.

7. Get an 8" rear end if you don't have one.(I'm going to get a lot of mileage out of that one).

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#3
Wolverine;65584 Wrote:Hey...NEW TOYS!!!! I LOVE DISTRIBUTORS!!!

Yep, me too kindof. Glad to have helped make your day. Tongue

73vertproject;65577 Wrote:I received the Pertronix II module (not the whole dizzy) today and want to get it installed. The builder said I should also get a set of solid plug wires, so I ordered them and they are on the way. But the P II directions say, "CAUTION... DO NOT USE SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES WITH THE IGNITOR II IGNITION SYSTEM." But they don't say why?

Call them!!!
Phone: (909) 547-9058
They are in CA.

Thanks, James! I called them at 4:30PM PST and listened to 15 minutes of horrible Muzak that would make a 70's porn "music director" barf, and then left a message for them to call me back, hopefully before smoke comes out of the tach gauge.

I do not know why your builder would recommend solid core for your application.

Me, neither.
73vertproject;65577 Wrote:Anyone have experience here? Should I send the solid core wires back when they get here?

I would send them back. Any good 8mm wire will do for your application.

If you are using an Ignitor II, you are basically getting the same voltage as a factory breaker point ignition.

That's what I'm thinking.
73vertproject;65577 Wrote:Any other tips or tricks I should know about? I'll be very careful 'cause I don't want to fry my factory tach.

1. I would leave my factory tach out of the loop until I had my engine running. Then, I posted diagram of how to wire in the tach, which requires you to cut into a wire under the dash, and run it through the firewall.

If you can wait a few weeks on the tach, I might have a more elegant solution.

Good thinking.

2. I thought you were getting a whole new distributor?

Not yet. If it turns out that I have to, I'll have this module as a backup.

3. Once you get up and running, you might want to get a spare Ignitor II. That way if you have an issue, you just swap it out.

See #2

4. Get a TIMING LIGHT if you don't have one.

Got one

5. Get a DWELL METER if you don't have one.

Pitched my old one in '79. Hopefully won't need one with the electronic ig.

6. Get a VACUUM GUN/GAGE if you don't have one.

Getting one tomorrow.

7. Get an 8" rear end if you don't have one.(I'm going to get a lot of mileage out of that one).

Happy with my 9" but appreciate you're input. Tongue

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#4
If they are truly "solid core" wires. Send them back. The pertronix wires work well, look reasonably close to stock, not terribly expensive and are compatible withe the pertronix trigger. Just one option. Chuck
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#5
Hey Doc!

I just got my Pertronix II yesterday. I went with the whole distributor, but I imagine that for wiring we are in the same boat.
I'm hoping to get mine installed tomorrow evening, so I haven't quite got there yet, but I can tell you what I have been doing.

I called Pertronix to ask them about the resistance wire issue.

He told me that the tach in our cars work by measuring current. He asked if I had ordered a Flamethrower coil, and I told him I was calling him to answer questions before I ordered anything. He told me NOT to use the Flamethrower, but to instead use the standard coil. He said that using the hotter coil would make the tach inaccurate. It would still work, just read wrong. He said it would be safe and wouldn't burn it up, but what's the point of a tach that reads wrong? With the standard lower volt coil the tach should still read right, but you can't use the + side of the coil to feed the module as it doesn't provide 12 volts. You would need to find a 12 volt circuit that is hot with the ignition on and run a wire to the red wire coming off of the Pertronix module. Run the black wire from the module to the - side of the coil, and leave the wire that is on the + side there for your tach. I don't think that it matters so much where you pull the switched 12 volts from, as long as it's switched, has full 12 volts and you can get a fuse inline.

I'm going to go a little off track right about here......

I figured I'd like to be able to put a fuse inline cause I really don't know how many amps are going to be on the circuit that I decide to use. I thought I might just come off of the ignition side of the starter solenoid, but that just like the coil didn't have full 12 volts. So I decided to find switched power in the harness under the dash. I got to thinking about what I might be doing to upgrade in the near future. I don't want to have to keep hacking away at the wiring. I'm going to take the headlights off of the light switch and run them off of the battery with relay's, so more inline fuses. Then I'm going to upgrade the stereo soon, so another fuse and relay.........

I ended up at the electronics store and found myself back at home with a couple of fuse blocks, some relays and a bunch of wire. What would be nice is to have a convenient place where I could find a source for constant power, switched power, relays and fuses. There is a piece of sheet metal just above the glove compartment that's called a relay panel. I pulled the dash pad and glove box and found the panel. The only thing on it was the seat belt buzzer and a single relay. There was plenty of room for what I wanted to accomplish so I decided that this was a perfect spot. All I have to do is pull the glove box and then the 2 screws that hold the panel in place and I can easily get to it.

[Image: sdc10723x.jpg]

I ran a 10 gauge wire from the battery through a 30 amp fuse and into the fuse block on the left. I also brought a ground directly from the negative to ensure a good grounding location. I came out of the constant voltage fuse block and into a relay. Next I pulled a 12v from the ignition circuit and brought it up to switch the relay, and fed power to the second fuse block. Now I have 5 constant power circuits and 6 switched power circuits available using voltage straight from the battery and not adding any additional load to any of the current circuits. Plus I can put a fuse on any of the circuits individually. I made about a foot long service loop in the loom that I made up, so I can pull it out to test it or add circuits.

[Image: sdc10726i.jpg]

Then on the bottom side of the panel I added 4 relays. I'm going to use 2 of them for the headlights, 1 for the stereo and then 1 that's a spare if I find a need for it later. It all tucks up completely out of sight and is pretty clean. There's plenty of room unlike under the dash, and I shouldn't ever have to stand on my head and hack into the main harness again to find a power feed.


I should have the distributor installed tomorrow afternoon. I'll let you know if everything is working, including the tach tomorrow or Sunday.
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#6
Ordered a new stock dizzy and Pertronix II module, and have both in hand. Now, I'll disconnect the Tach to ensure I don't fry it before I figure out how to wire it correctly. Then drop in the new dizzy and install the P-II, and see what happens.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#7
73vertproject;66346 Wrote:Ordered a new stock dizzy and Pertronix II module, and have both in hand. Now, I'll disconnect the Tach to ensure I don't fry it before I figure out how to wire it correctly. Then drop in the new dizzy and install the P-II, and see what happens.
Before wiring the tach, post the diagram you are going to use to wire it and the pertronix ignition in.

However, I would suspect if you get your car to run without the tach, you will be able to wire it back in without any issues.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
  Reply
#8
Wolverine;66359 Wrote:However, I would suspect if you get your car to run without the tach, you will be able to wire it back in without any issues.

Aaaaaahhhhh, that's right. People who've fried their tachs often suffer from poor engine performance or not running at all. The tach runs in series, so if I unplug it, no juice to tach, and maybe no juice to coil... Huh

Spent a bit of time Googling "Install Pertronix II with factory tach" and read several posts about it. Will have to look at them again...

More later....

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#9
The car will not run with the factory tach disconnected, unless you make and install a jumper connection. Chuck
  Reply
#10
c9zx;66396 Wrote:The car will not run with the factory tach disconnected, unless you make and install a jumper connection. Chuck

Thanks, Chuck. That's what I figured. Gotta put together the jumper wire - Utard's system is awesome, but I just want to get the car running properly, and THEN invest time in cool stuff like he described. I think I just need to run 12V from the battery to the "start" position on the ignition switch, then run it to the tach. If memory serves correctly, that is. Back to the Google...

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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