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floor pan replacement
#1
hey there all! I am new to the forum and to my 73 doo doo brown Grandé. well the car is in great shape but the floor pan. I have found entire floors partial pieces and such. my two questions are should I try to replace the whole floor or just whats bad and where can I find seat supports for the front?
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#2
I would replace the bad unless it is too extensive. Post a couple of pics and an intro so we can welcome you properly.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#3
ok awesoeme!!! ill get some pics tomorrow and post them. where do I post an intro?
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#4
Here y'go: http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-introductions

I am having the full passenger pan replaced, even though it's in pretty decent shape in the back. Might as well, about 60% had to be replaced anyway.

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#5
well I wasnt able to get pics tonight cause I picked up the cam and it was dead. so i will have them up tomorrow for sure now. I did have a chance to remove the back seat and saw promising metal underneath. seemed very good and only one small placeright against the fender. anywat there is some pitting. I see no reason to replace only the pitted or very slight rust places so whats an epoxy or a strong body filler I could use?
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#6
Scott will chime in here soon and he has some videos that are great. Between floor pans and cowls this group of guys has you covered on tips and how to. YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE. Smile
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#7
jesusfreakfor777;64997 Wrote:well I wasnt able to get pics tonight cause I picked up the cam and it was dead. so i will have them up tomorrow for sure now. I did have a chance to remove the back seat and saw promising metal underneath. seemed very good and only one small placeright against the fender. anywat there is some pitting. I see no reason to replace only the pitted or very slight rust places so whats an epoxy or a strong body filler I could use?

I'd first clean off all of the paint in the pitted or lightly rusted area, then take a wire wheel and get to bare metal. You'll probably find that the light pits indicate more pits or holes and very thin metal which should be replaced.

Sounds like patching vice replacement is in your future.


Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#8
Need to see pics.
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#9
General rule is that you want to keep as much of the good or original metal as possible. If it's rusted go about an inch or so past that, but if the metal is good, leave that and piece in new metal where it's rusted. So, if you don't have to replace the whole pan, don;t
Your first step would be to clean it thoroughly with a wire wheel. Mark the areas with a sharpy that you are going to cut out. Keep in mind that your new metal will need to extend out past that point, so your pieces will need to be cut longer. Unless, of course you are going to the frame.
I found it cheaper to buy the two sides, full pans, then cut out what I needed. Plus, then I had some extra scrap metal, which I used in other spots.
Make sure to drill out the old spot welds, grind everything down nice and clean, so you will be welding on clean metal. This part sucks and takes a long time!
When you are welding the pieces in, you don't want to stitch with one long bead, or the new pan will heat up and warp.
The best way is to do like the factory did and drill holes in the new pan just inside the parameter and then spot weld each in place. After it's all buttoned up, you can turn the heat down and put a quick bead around the perimeter to seal if you wish. But watch the heat and warping.
You can use seam sealer around all the edges to finish it all off, then spray it with sound deadener to coat it.
It's pretty tedious work, so I recommend having cold beer on tap. Good luck!




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#10
that is great info guys! this might be a dumb question, but where did the factory use the spot welds? could I look underneath the car and know where to drill out and such?
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