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First startup update - need help
#1
OK, finally got to get back to the first fire up. I started from step 1 - put engine at TDC on compression stroke, point rotor to #1 plug wire, and it fired up but bad backfiring not fixed by moving distributor. One tooth off. Moved dizzy one tooth, and it fired up and idled for a few seconds. Fire up and adjust dizzy, engine died. Fired up and moved dizzy opposite direction and it idled again for several seconds then died. Turned the key to start it again, and nothing. No electricity at all. Dead silence as if there is no battery installed.

The new battery reads 17 volts at the terminals. Where should I start? The voltage regulator and starter solenoid are the ones that came with the car. Just about everything else is new.

Doc

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#2
Turn on the headlights. If they work you have power. If they don't you have no ground from the battery to the electrical system. If you do, we'll start troublshooting the ignition system. Kinda need a little more info from there. Let us know

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#3
No headlights. Battery to engine block ground is still tight. Next?

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#4
I had this same issue when i had my alternator harness grounded incorrectly. I had no power at alllll, anywhere.

"Do it once, do it right!"
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#5
Check your fusible links

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#6
73vertproject;64299 Wrote:The new battery reads 17 volts at the terminals. Where should I start? The voltage regulator and starter solenoid are the ones that came with the car. Just about everything else is new.

I have never had a battery read 17 volts...are you reading DC?

1. Check your ground with the voltmeter. Go from battery (-) terminal to your engine block. You should get 0 ohms, otherwise engine ground issue.

2. Go from battery (-) to a bolt on your frame, like at the shock tower. You should get 0 ohms. Otherwise, frame ground issue.

3. If the above checks out, at the solenoid, remove the cable that goes down to the starter. Put your voltmeter at batter (-) and the terminal on the solenoid where you removed the cable. Turn the ignition key to the the START position and see what voltage you get...should be 12 volts. If you don't get 12 volts, then you have a solenoid issue.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#7
He had power when he started since it cranked..something blew..Again..there is a fusible link I believe right at the solenoid or regulator (I forget) I'm sure Chuck would know..If it's blown = no juice

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#8
73vertproject;64299 Wrote:Turned the key to start it again, and nothing. No electricity at all. Dead silence as if there is no battery installed.

I do not believe the fusible link(YELLOW WIRE) would explain no lights.

The fusible link does go to the ignition key switch, but I do not see it in the headlight circuit.

To check the fusible link, disconnect the battery. Using an ohm meter, put one clamp at the solenoid terminal where the yellow wire(fusible link wire) should be. Remove the RED with light blue wire from the solenoid, and put the other ohm meter clamp on this wire(which is returning from the start switch). Turn the key switch to the ON position. If you have 0 ohms, then your fusible link is okay.

Also...just for funzies, make sure your battery has water in it...that 17 volts kind of scares me.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#9
Blown fusible links. You can sometimes select each fusible link wire and look closely, they will burn the outer insulation when the internal wire (fuse) blows. I've pulled them apart and temporarily twisted the wires together to get power back into the circuit in an emergency. You might have something grounding out and blowing the fusible link.
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#10
Thanks everyone! I wiggled the wires around the solenoid and it fired right up. I'll fix the wiring problem soon. Thanks for the assist!

Doc

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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